[xkeots]

I am cleaning my frame but there will still be those pock marks from the old rust that is gone and treated.
Will an epoxy primer fill them once it is warm enough to shoot?
It is now in Eastwood's Rust encapsulator and covered.

Thanks
Jack

[mikes2nd]

eh that depends on how deep and how bad vs how much paint.

There is "high fill" primer though. If its what you normally see, its gonna take alot.

[gtome]

I am doing a frame off at work on a 68 Shelby GT500 convertible. I had to spray 2 gallons of Slick Sand on the bottom to get it smoothed out. Slick Sand is a sprayable poly filler. Basically like if you could thin down bondo and spray it. That would be my recommendation. Need at least a 1.8mm tip gun. I use a 2.3mm tip when I spray it.

[1968firebird455]

I have a convertible frame that we did a couple coats of SPI high build on to smooth it out. Slicksand or a sprayable poly is the way to go if the pitting is deep.

[hobi]

Originally Posted by xkeots

I am cleaning my frame but there will still be those pock marks from the old rust that is gone and treated.
Will an epoxy primer fill them once it is warm enough to shoot?
It is now in Eastwood's Rust encapsulator and covered.

Thanks
Jack

thats what theu made filler for save yourself the agony get the filler out now you can fill it now or you can fill it later but have a cold cold heiniken first a;ways makes things better

[xkeots]

Originally Posted by 1968firebird455

I have a convertible frame that we did a couple coats of SPI high build on to smooth it out. Slicksand or a sprayable poly is the way to go if the pitting is deep.

Pitting I would call an 8 footer

Thanks
Jack

[xkeots]

Let me ask you all,
How much rust can I take off, as I do not want the frame looses it's strength? It is quite solid everywhere but pitted. I smashed it everywhere with a body hammer with a pick head and it didn't leave a mark anywhere, just ugly looking.
I just bought a soda/abrasive blaster from Eastwood with a few different rust chemicals.
Should I just lightly soda blast it, wash it and then rust proof it. Then I can use their rust encapsulator, finally use bondo (to smooth it out) and an epoxy primer and chassis paint?
I am trying to get my frame and all paints and chemicals that I will have to buy, ready and set up for the spring or any day that pops up that is over 60 degrees.
I never did this before.

Thanks
Jack

[gtomike72]

How about Por 15? Isn't it pretty thick and dries smooth? I'm going to be doing the same soon but not sure if the finish would be the correct gloss

[xkeots]

It took me 3 1/2 years to find a 1967 GTO boxed frame. I am replacing everything on it, except the rear. That gets all new bushings. The front end will be totally brand new. On the frame, I took down all the flakes off of the frame today, with the Eastwood pack of 6 inch long wire brushes and 3 inch Rolocs. I coated it with Eastwood's Pre, Rust Remover, Rust Encapsulator and one coat of Eastwood's Frame paint, it is the correct factory black.
I still have light pock marks that you can't see 5 feet back.
I feel if I use a bondo on the frame to smooth it, that the frame is under the car and I want to use the car, not have a trailer queen. When I drive it, all of the road rocks and crap will put dents or marks in the bondo on the frame and scratch the paint off. It is not as durable as paint to steel.
If I ever decide to enter it in a show, it will be nice enough to win except the pocked frame.
The steel on the frame is solid as a rock.
I might try a thick black epoxy primer when it gets warmer outside then re paint it chassis black.
Any thoughts out there ?

[1968firebird455]

I just did a 1968-1972 A-body convertible frame for a customer that was a solid frame but had some pitting after it was blasted. I had it blasted, coated it in SPI Epoxy, then used SPI high build and sanded it out.

[xkeots]

Originally Posted by 1968firebird455

I just did a 1968-1972 A-body convertible frame for a customer that was a solid frame but had some pitting after it was blasted. I had it blasted, coated it in SPI Epoxy, then used SPI high build and sanded it out.

Just sides & bottom, or full frame?
Top is covered with the body.
I just bought Eastwood's inner frame rust stop. Great stuff as there are clear lines with a head with holes so it spreads around the inner box.
2 cans are good for a boxed GTO A frame.
I hate watching B/J's and when the car goes over the under camera, you can see rust inside the frame.

[1968firebird455]

The Eastwood internal frame coat is good stuff. We just did the sides and bottom. No since wasting labor on parts that will be hidden for this particular car.

[russosborne]

I am using a cheap grinder with an 80 (or is it 60?) grit flapping sanding disc from Walmart. It has taken many of them, but the areas that I didn't rush look really good. I am using Rust Reformer over the bare metal and then rolling Rustoleum semi gloss black over that with a cheap foam roller. It looks pretty darn good. Now I have to go back and do the areas that I tried to rush cause they look like crap compared to the good areas.

If you have the money take it to have it sandblasted. That will get all of it off, there are areas on mine that I just can't do right with the flap disc and they won't look as good as the rest.

Russ

[xkeots]

I have a soda/abrasive blaster. I used it on a small section, I then used a roloc with 24 grade, then a 4 1/2 heavy duty grinder with 24 also.. It wasn't that much different.
I had a shiny frame but still a bit bumpy. I don't want the steel thinned.
I gather in the spring or the next day in the 60 degree area I will use thin bondo on the bottom and sides, then epoxy primer and frame paint.. The top will never be seen as the body sits on it, so some pox will be fine.
Thanks
Jack