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#1
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NOT saying im going this route but, I am running casting 13 heads on my 67 GTO, virgin heads, new valves and matching springs for my Crower 60916 cam, Comp. valve job. Seems like most Pontiac guys want around 1,000.00$ for flow work and redo my heads that flow from 220 factory to about260 cfms. I might be better off selling the 13,s and buying a set of Elderbrocks. I DOON,T want to change cam or gears in my car.Question is Elderbrock makes 2 versions with differant cc,s. witch one should i run on my 400+ .040. 373 gear car.
Is this the near best way to go??????? |
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#2
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Edelbrock...
If you are staying with the 400 combo the 72cc is the head for you to remain pump gas friendly. If you are going to stroke it the 87cc head is the one that is still pump gas friendly. They make the round port versions and the D-port version. The round ports will not work with the headers you currently have as they won't bolt up. The D-ports will work fine with the headers you have as far as bolting up to them. If your iron heads are a true 260 cfm at .500 lift I would stick with them but if you are guessing they are 260 without a flowbench sheet then you might be surprised what they flow... An iron head that flows an honest 260 is a pretty decent head...
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1969 GTO, 5.77 @ 121 1/8th mile 3450 lbs...535 with Junk dinosaur Eheads Faster on nitrous… |
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#3
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Quote:
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#4
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In your place I would consider SD performance's KRE 290/295 CNC d-port package.
http://www.sdperformance.com/viewPro...productID=1691 A big chunk of change for some? sure, but well worth it over the long haul. All the head you will need with lots of room to grow! Last edited by pastry_chef; 12-20-2012 at 05:51 PM. |
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#5
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yes, Scott, you said it right. After work is done they may flow 260 cfm, i am reading stock Elderbrocks flow that out of the box. So i understand here , the 72 cc,s is what you all recomend?? With shipping ill have over 1,000.00$ in them
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#6
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You missed 69Goat1's subtle hint. It's spelled Edelbrock. You will want to get that right before contacting any vendors about product. They will probably take your money no matter how you say the word, but your chances of being taken seriously are much better if you know the product.
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Brian Rock '65 GTO - Pump gas 496" IA2 w/ High Ports, 200-4R trans, 3.73 gears, 275 Hoosier radials, and 3925 lbs. 9.88 @ 134 N/A on Cali 91 octane. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJEIY5OJ68g
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#7
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Geez, always a comedian, no big deal i thought, but??????
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#8
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What intake are you running? That may have to change as well.
__________________
68 Firebird Are you running with the wind or breaking it? |
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#9
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RPM at first, just switched to 68 unit made to look like a performer.
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#10
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67Cruiser, I have been following some of your post concerning your car's peformance. Before you spend money on heads, you should have your current cam degreed. I see no reason to spend money when you have not verified if the current set up is installed correctly.
Quit trying to throw money at it. If you need help degreeing the cam then reach out to the PY community. Good people here. I will be updating my combo with ported heads, and plan to degree my current cam. Since I have never degreed cam, I will be reaching out for help when I get to that stage. Good luck...you have had some good advice so far. |
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#11
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My cam was installed straight up, If heads are coming off changes will be made. Been reading alot about degreeing in a cam and never read ware somebodys has been off. Not knocking the comments but this combo is ready for the 12,s one way or another. Time to make a little investmant and play time!!
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#12
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I'd definitely check it, it costs nothing but time. If it's only off +/-2 degrees or so don't sweat it, if more you should correct it.
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68 GTO,3860# Stock Original 400/M-20 Muncie,3.55’s 13.86 @ 100 Old combo: 462 10.75 CR,,SD 330CFM Round Port E's,Old Faithful cam,Jim Hand Continental,3.42's. 1968 Pontiac GTO : 11.114 @ 120.130 MPH New combo: 517 MR-1,10.8 CR,SD 350CFM E's,QFT 950/Northwind,246/252 HR,9.5” 4000 stall,3.42's 636HP/654TQ 1.452 10.603 @ 125.09 http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-GTO...lip-31594.html |
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#13
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So U would rather spend 1500 bucks instead of degreeing your cam? No Offense ,but your car has so much potential if you would just listen once! Rich FWIW I had to advance my crank gear 4 degrees to get it to come in at 108 on old faithful cam.
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Darby 74 Grandville 2Dr 455 c.i 4550# 2011 1.60 60 ft,[email protected]@117.74 2017, 74 firebird -3600 lbs (all bests) 1.33 60 ft, [email protected] [email protected] M/T 275/60 ET SS Drag Radial 2024(Pontiac 505) 1.25 60 ft, [email protected], [email protected].... 275/60 Radial Pro's |
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#14
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Several people have mentioned that the Crower cams need to be degreed based upon their experience of installing the cams "straight up". You don't seem to be hearing that.
Wish I had the money to throw around like that. New heads will do you no good if cam is not installed correctly...next |
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#15
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Rich...the heads on my Bird(13's) were on a flowbench, just to see what they flowed , after our homeporting job... 233 on intake... not near as much as we thought.. and it ran 11.04/119.95 in Oct 2012. My point is, your heads(stock) dont flow near 220... I personally would spend the money on the Iron heads... but, like everyone says, checking that cam may save you 1500.00. I think a good 1000.00 port job, along with stainless valves and good springs, would still be cheaper than the alum route. Because, even after you buy the 1500.00 heads, i would have them checked, before i put them on. JMO... IRON heads man!!!
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1962 Catalina 4100lbs trw 455, iron d-ports,perf RPM, 800holley, 9'' tires,([email protected])1.578 60' Oct 2010!! ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#16
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If you are building an entire new combo especially higher rpm or more cubes aluminum might be the better choice. But dont sell the iron heads short...there is plenty of power that can be found in them. Also agree you need to check your present cam timing and correct it if its off. |
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#17
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Quote:
Do a static compression test before and after. Calvin Hill Hill Performance 708-250-7420 |
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#18
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You can run up to mid 11's before roll bar and some other safety stuff is needed. You just have to work your combo as others have been saying.
I would push the current combo and tune, tune, tune before going further unless you are looking for a big leap. Which alot more than just heads are needed for that.
__________________
68 Firebird Are you running with the wind or breaking it? |
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#19
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Quote:
I'd be wary of a local head shop porting your head to "260" cfm. Standard street port jobs are closer to 240cfm. If I "had" to have 260+ out of a set of iron heads I'd only trust one of the pontiac shops (Butler, KRE, Spotts in Hatfield, PA, Dude, etc.). As 69Goat said - 260 cfm from an iron port is a significant port job. My recc - I'd opt for the KRE dports either let them do it or SD. Both have CNC machines and KRE got the 310cfm port job to me in less than a month. If money is a bit tight, then just by KRE dports stock from them - 1850 for 65cc heads and 1900 for 74cc heads. They are probably 2-300 bucks cheaper than the ehead dports. You don't need to change headers. Definately , when you swap heads - check your cams degree. ALL cams should be degree'd. |
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#20
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Totally agree with all you guys, I just want to know in my mind that my heads are ok, I may want to go with the 1.65 rockers to. Like i stated, these heads never looked at by a professional head porting guy. Id be happy with 240 cfm,s. Thanks for all the great answers.
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