[PB]

Would it be alright to fill theses small holes with a jb weld,, then follow up with Master Series silver, epoxy primer?

Can I get away with the above process without cutting and welding in new metal?

I have a couple holes that are a bit larger on the top side of the window channel. Can I do the same on the larger holes?

I've wire wheeled the window channel, now my plan is to fill with jb weld, master series, epoxy prime.

[PB]

Another shot.

[steve v]

JB may be a little on the runny side to use on the holes unless you can get on the backside w/some tape to keep it from oozing thru. I've used the POR 15 two part epoxy putty kit on similar sized holes in floor/trunk pans before with ok results.

How long the repair will last is anyone's guess.

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by steve v

J
How long the repair will last is anyone's guess.

X2.
I went thru the same issue on the wifes car and just bit the bullet and welded in new metal. When I was all done, I was glad I did. One less thing to worry about.

[Bob Scott]

Welding in new metal is the best way to go but if you don't want to do that maybe metal to metal filler would work

[JUDGE3]

I have used a quality body filler twice in this area with excellent results. although mine were pitted but no full through holes. none the less, small holes no big deal.

The thing is, you have to get 100% of the rust off the pits. then I treated it further with rust neutralizer, then its no different than filling a dent in a panel. I sandblasted. only way to get it all.

myself I don't see any reason for Jb weld even if it were thicker.

[400 4spd.]

If you have a hole, rust is now on the backside.

[carcrazy]

Obviously replacement of the metal is the best way to go. For a short-term repair filling will work but I'll bet that you'll be revisiting the problem a few years down the road!!

[gary bennett]

i would use ( ALL METAL ) i mixes like bondo

[nytrainer]

My 2 cents, if you aren't going to replace the metal I would put down epoxy primer FIRST(after spot blast, etc. to get as much rust as possible) BEFORE any filler whether you use Metal to Metal, Rage etc.. is your choice. Garage, nice weather use car should last a long, long time.

[GTO JOHN]

If your going to keep the car then weld in new metal. To go the cheap route if selling the car I would use fiberglass resin to plug the holes and have something to support the JB weld.

[ANDYA]

If your not going to weld in new metal I would try and at least blast the area. Then I would treat the area with phosphoric acid to get rid of any remaining rust. Soak the area good and keep it wet for along time. Work the area with a wire brush and wipe of the acid with paper towels. Repeat this process several times until your sure the rust is gone. Then I would fill the area with All Metal and sand before you apply a final coat of filler.

[JUDGE3]

Originally Posted by ANDYA

If your not going to weld in new metal I would try and at least blast the area. Then I would treat the area with phosphoric acid to get rid of any remaining rust. Soak the area good and keep it wet for along time. Work the area with a wire brush and wipe of the acid with paper towels. Repeat this process several times until your sure the rust is gone. Then I would fill the area with All Metal and sand before you apply a final coat of filler.

X2 Works excellent. and in this area would take an awful long time to have any spots return when done as above.

[PB]

Thanks for all the advice....just bought the master series silver. I plan on keeping the car, so I don't know which route ill take. Need to buy a welder. I know removal is best way to go, but a lot of what I'm reading on here about the master series, I don't think it necessarily has to be cut out. I'm going to pull the dash and get a good look from underneath.

[JUDGE3]

Originally Posted by PB

Thanks for all the advice....just bought the master series silver. I plan on keeping the car, so I don't know which route ill take. Need to buy a welder. I know removal is best way to go, but a lot of what I'm reading on here about the master series, I don't think it necessarily has to be cut out. I'm going to pull the dash and get a good look from underneath.

If your pulling the dash, the access will allow you to por15 the bottom.

I used por15 on the back side of everything I accessed.

[Josh.AZ.GTO]

I just got a new POR15 catalog and they have this stuff called POR patch. It seems to be designed for the application your referencing. Although you would want to do both top and bottom for best results.