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#1
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Maybe I'm out of touch but my way of thinking is that this is worth about 5K max. I mean it's a very low option car and none of the drive train is original. Yes it's a factory black tri-power 4spd car so is that what's driving the price?
I like black and I was going to bid but not anymore.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ponti...711617&vxp=mtr |
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#2
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Maybe because it's rust free?
How does he know it was "special ordered"? I think he saw the "Special Equipment" title on the PHS and thinks that somehow means something unique. Looks like a nice solid plain ole May of 1965 Pontiac Michigan built GTO - one of tens of thousands built. K
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.56 @ 139 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Keith Seymore For This Useful Post: | ||
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#3
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#4
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67 Firebird auto 65 GTO Hardtop 3x2 WS M22 |
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#5
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I have no idea. All I can guess is that these are uninformed buyers. Many people will disagree with me, but I have run the numbers (restoration costs) on these cars(64-72 Pontiac A body cars) for the last 15 years. A few years back the calculations indicated that it is less expensive to purchace as restored car than to restore one yourself, even if you had to finance the cost, or get a second job.
Now don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that some people don't enjoy doing restoration work, but if one's goal is to enjoy driving a car and taking it to cruise nights and shows, buying a mostly ready or ready car is the way to go. This of course does not apply to cars that have an inherent value due to family owned etc. |
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#6
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It has '66 rally gauges in it, also, not '65 gauges. So it's been messed with a bit. I think the simple fact that it was born black, with a 4 speed and trips is the driving factor here. Plus, it looks to be a worthwhile and solid car. I'd love to have it to restore. Just my kind of goat. I'm not a big 'option' guy.... more of a performance guy, so it suits me just fine.
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Jeff |
| The Following User Says Thank You to geeteeohguy For This Useful Post: | ||
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#7
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Andre, you are correct. However, the allure of a 'potential CHEAP' real GTO is strong. many don't HAVE the 30k needed to buy a done one. They also don't realize it'll take every bit of that to do one that needs doing. I've run into a few old cars I wanted, that were CHEAP, but when I did the math, I would have taken a bath even if the car was GIVEN to me. The costs of labor, parts, and materials is higher than it's ever been, but the values of the cars are down a bunch. Still, I like the car in question.
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Jeff |
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#8
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"Mostly Rust Free." This phrase always concerns me - the car could be 49% rust, and he's still telling the truth - right?
Then I reviewed the pictures and saw daylight peeking through the trunk floor; saw the rust at the bottom of the door, etc. Also - I read the ad carefully: It doesn't seem to run. People ask me why I'm fixing my car instead of just buying another one. This is why.
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#9
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Simple: shiny red paint, rather than the rust and obvious flaws that the buyers can't see and would rather pretend are not there. Shiny red paint makes all of that better when clicking on the 'bid' button.
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#10
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I dont think it takes $30k to get a nice car any more. Im thinking high teens-low 20's gets you a car that is very nice and needs very little. Obviously not a show car for that kind of money, but a reliable car that will get plenty of thumbs up from the populace,a and looks good at the local cruise in.
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#11
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"saw the rust at the bottom of the door" I saw that too. Yes the floors look good but I'll bet that once you strip all the paint off the new owner will be disappointed with all the old rust repair. I don't think it's as solid as it's made out to be.
My guess is that it's a tri-power or black or both that has everyone all exited. |
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#12
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the pans look prety good from the pics and the bottom of the panels look ok but.... thats a lot of work
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________________________________________ 65 GTO owner since 84 original ca car
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#13
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so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
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#14
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So what would you value it at then? Maybe I am out of touch with project prices.
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#15
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I have the one of one '64 with a "factory" 12 bolt...
![]() Of course, I didn't say which factory the 12 bolt came out of or when it came out of the factory. |
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#16
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i agree with most all thats been said pretty much.
Was likely left for dead after giving up all its favorable drivetrain pieces. Then someone got it cheap and tried to make it a car again - as cheap as possible. De-chromed and De-emblemed etc ... Most likely had no clue or care about what it once was at that time. "previously restored" "professional" paint "original" 12 bolt It'll probably hit 10k or close . A lot of guys have the hots for a 65 Faktry Black/Black 3x2 4spd Hardtop . Several folks who know about my fixer-upper periodically check in to see if its for sale . 3.90 car with drivetrain intact Keith S. probably has a list of interested prospects for his 65 . A really really rusty 65 Red/Black 3x2 4spd Hdtp with no drivetrain in my area sold a while back for over 3k . Was basically just a title with tags |
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#17
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LoL Hard to say either way ... but it has the makings of a Lot Car of that period not conclusive tho |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Baron Von Zeppelin For This Useful Post: | ||
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#18
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Missing its original tri-power/Muncie drivetrain, this car can NEVER be restored to "original". Unless the original motor is found and installed, it will ALWAYS be a "clone"!
Accordingly, any other "clone" is substantially the same value as this "real" car. A review of recent listings of "clone" cars will show that they can be bought as finished cars for a lot less than what it will take to fix/repair/update this car. This car is a mess! It is obviously a hodgepodge of pieces/parts and is pretty much a basket case as far as the interior/dashboard/instrumentation/bumpers/trim/nuts and bolts/etc. (Yea! I know I left out a lot!) Take out your parts catalog/look on Ebay/read other ads. Add up the prices of what it will cost to fix this car. Add in the cost of the body work/paint job/upholstery, etc. The price this car is currently bidding at ($8,700) plus all these other out-of-pocket costs PLUS labor costs will be greater than what a REAL original car can be bought for. If that is not enough, a black car is the absolute hardest car to make/keep looking straight! |
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#19
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I was thinking the same thing about my '66 lol.. When I saw the title of the thread and pics of the car, I thought maybe it was up into the teens. $8K doesn't seem that out of line for a documented Black on Black, 4spd, tri-power '65...Even in that condition. However, I wouldn't want to pay that for it 'cause I know how much work and money that's involved in getting it right.....On the other hand, if it was mine, I wouldn't sell it for $5K
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#20
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Okay so I agree that the PHS confirming that its a black tri-power car is the main driving factor here.
So what if this same car was some other color like say burgundy, would it still be in that price range or is black really that desirable???
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