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THE LOBBY A gathering place. Introductions, sports, showin' off your ride, birthday-anniversary-milestone, achievements, family oriented humor. |
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#1
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How long would you hold something for someone
I've got an ethical question for you fellow Pontiac owners.
Last summer, I listed a few large items for sale on CL in the Charlotte, Raleigh, and surrounding areas. One of the items was a cherry 72 GTO hood, which has been off the car and stored since the early 80s. The ad stated no shipping, the item could be picked up at Charlotte, Raleigh, or FAll Charlotte Autofair. I got an email from a potential buyer and I provided numerous images of the hood. We agreed on price, and he initially planned to come down to the Fall Autofair to pick it up. He is from the upper mid-West, which was OK as long as I don't have to ship the hood. I didn't ask for deposit, telling him to pay for it when he picked it up since Autofair was only a few weeks away at the time. His trip to Autofair fell through at the last minute, so he told me he was looking into options to either come pick it up himself or have it picked up. Months have gone by, and nothing has been arranged due to time, weather, and other things. He says he really wants the hood, and I really don't want to crate and ship it. He now says he is planning to come to the Spring Autofair to pick it up. I don't want to lose another few months if he should fail to show up. What would you guys recommend? My options are to ask for a non-refundable deposit that he forfeits if he fails to show, cancel the deal entirely, or just wait and see if he makes the April show and go from there. I didn't intend for this to be open ended, but it seems to be turning out that way. Mike |
#2
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Ask for full payment to be sent.
Demand that he pick it up at Spring Auto Fair, and if he doesn't he forfeits the money and you sell it to someone else. If he doesn't agree cancel the deal. Always get a non-refundable deposit when starting a deal like this, it lights a fire under them and urges them follow through. |
#3
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selling parts
Since you told him to pay at pickup at the auto fair, you were very reasonable. He failed to make the scheduled pick up, so IMHO you are now free to ask for either a deposit or full payment. If he doesn't agree, relist the hood for sale.
I have held parts without a deposit for guys with good intentions, but some situations happened and they couldn't pick up the parts. During the holding time, I turned down other offers for the parts and got stuck with them. I figure the parts are yours until someone pays for them, so do as you want. |
#4
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I agree.
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#5
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At this point it doesn't look like he's had a good track record. Request payment in full as b-man
suggested.
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My money talks to me-it usually says goodbye! |
#6
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Full payment with a contingency clause.
If no show in Spring - you keep 1/3 - and refund 2/3. Thats still way on the fair side considering the time that has already lapsed. OR - 1/3 non-refundable deposit with time stamp. If he can't at least agree to 1/3 minimum deposit - then he is not concrete about his intentions to be in Charlotte. Whatever the logistics - i'd want at least 1/3 non-refundable deposit with a time frame attached. Paid in full - i'd give him 2 more chances to make Charlotte. (spring - fall) |
#7
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FAIR
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#8
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Recently I tried to buy something (NOS sheetmetal) from a member on here. He is several states away, and rather than ship it I offered to have a customer of mine pick it up on his way here. I would have paid full price if he would take it out of the box and send me photos to prove the condition.
He wouldn't do it, called me a picture collector. Sometimes you can't win as a seller or buyer. |
#9
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Too many flakes in the world.
Either a non-refundable deposit (1/3 sounds fair) with a defined period until forfeiture, or full-payment with storage fees if he doesn't pick up within a specified time. I had a guy back in the mid-90's that wanted me to build him a motor, but he lived several hundred miles away. I came across an unassembled motor, but could pick it up at a price that would save the guy several hundred on his engine build. He sent me about 1/3 of the price, and I bought it. First one delay, then an excuse,... after about 4 years, he ended up selling the car and had no use for the motor. I ended up doing slightly better than breaking even on the deal. A few years later, I had a guy bring me a 455 to rebuild. Gave a large enough deposit to cover machine shop charges, this disappeared for about 18 months. Got back in touch, sent a little more money, then went AWOL for about 2 years. Got back in touch, had lost his job,.... wanted me to get started on the motor again, then went AWOL yet again. About 2 more years go by, he calls, had gotten divorced, SOLD THE CAR... I finally built the motor, sold it to somebody and gave the original guy about half of what I got for the motor. There is a reason older shops usually have a sign posting "storage costs" for anything left over 30 days!
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'73 T/A (clone). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 315rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'. '67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust |
#10
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Just tell him that you're going to relist it. If he ever makes it to your area have him call you to see if it's still available./ I've done that a few times. Sometimes the original buyer showed up and bought something, sometimes I had to tell the buyer don't bother coming because it's been sold.
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#11
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Two thoughts:
1. No "consideration" ($) from him to you for the "contract" means you are free and clear to do as you will and sell that bad boy hood and put that coin in your pocket ASAP! 2. Also, what if it became "damaged" while YOU were transporting it in good faith for this unknown person(s)? Would you feel responsible to a stranger for damage to something you own? If so why? Make him pick it up or pay for shipping and handling and move on and enjoy your Ponchos is my opinion. Based on your OP Q you sound like a good person with the best of intentions. Take the other posters advice and consider yourself free and clear of any obligation IMO. |
#12
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NOS SHEETMETAL
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#13
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Sounds like he's making excuses now and he doesn't really want it, but won't say so. I'd say he has a certain time limit. When that's up relist it. Enough time has passed waiting for him to make up his mind on what he's going to do. Besides, he's not paid you or given any money to hold it... he's got nothing to say about it, it's not his.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#14
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Alvin,
You hit part of the problem right on the head with your #2 observation. I generally will hold something for a reasonable amount of time without requiring any deposit. I think one month is a reasonable period of time, but I will be somewhat flexible if difficulties come up. I don't like transactions that use middle men to evaluate or transport items to a buyer, especially if I don't know the middle man. If the item becomes damaged during transport, the buyer will want his money back. If I didn't arrange transport, then I feel it's not my problem. I had that exact situation involving a 64 GTO hood a number of years ago, and I can tell you that nobody was happy with the outcome. Gary, He emails me about once a month to make sure I still have it. I think he still needs it and wants it, but the reality the cost to come get it is a little hard to digest. I think I'm going to ask for non-refundable 25% deposit to hold for pickup at Spring Autofair. |
The Following User Says Thank You to poncho-mike For This Useful Post: | ||
#15
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If he truly wanted it but the initial transaction fell through, he'd have paid for it ASAP so you could hold it for him.
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#16
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I will always post pics and a honest description of whatever I sell.
Some sellers have a very skewed option of usable condition and I've been sent some junk. It's FIRST COME FIRST SERVED. I will only wait a few days for a confirmation and upon someone stating interest will then allow a week or two tops for payment. At that point if payment isn't secured for parts they then again become available. I don't ask for deposits since I will only hold a short time. Fair & Honest and if someone gets their panties in a bunch, TFS.
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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car. |
#17
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Quote:
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Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
#18
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#19
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If I want something bad enough I find ways to acquire.Last chance and no guilt trips accepted. My 2cts.
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#20
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NOTHING is considered sold around here until money has exchanged hands...PERIOD!
I am quite flexible with making final payment, and arranging for picking stuff up, etc, but any item I have for sale is still for sale until money is put down on it, or paid in full, no exceptions. The days are LONG gone where you can take someone on their word, and it's a shame things have gone that way. CL is also a great place to find stuff, and some really nice deals on there, if you have the time, and patience to sort thru all the retards, "flakes", and potential serial killers to complete a transaction!......IMHO.....Cliff PS: I would also add that a percentage of the great deals on CL are quite likely stolen. Keep this in mind when you drive deep into the country to isolated places to complete the transactions. I ALWAYS take my two best friends with me....Smith & Wesson!!!
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
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