[jonmachota78]

I though some of you might like to see this.

If you combine a 4" tall Airaid filter (link below) with a WFO drop base assembly, with a couple simple mods, it fits in a '78 shaker, and works with an RPM manifold.

Replace all the screws in the WFO base with rivets.
Reshape the air cleaner stud as shown. I used a map gas torch.
That's it, it fits!

The rivets prevent the screws from interfering with the filter. The bend in the filter stud set the filter rearward so it doesn't hit the shaker lid.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aid-801-455

(Credit goes to formul8 for the Airaid filter idea)

[jonmachota78]

Vvvvvvvvvv

[jonmachota78]

Couple more:

[Blued and Painted]

I like it!

[jonmachota78]

The inspirational thread:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=airaid

[Blackened]

You used the WFO-1?

http://www.butlerperformance.com/pro...s/dropBase.htm

[Nitebird]

That Air Raid is a pricey air filter. I wonder if something else would work instead? I am glad that you posted the combo though as it does let people know there are options with different combos.

[jonmachota78]

Originally Posted by Blackened

You used the WFO-1?

http://www.butlerperformance.com/pro...s/dropBase.htm

That looks like it. I purchased mine directly from larry back in the day. I didnt realize butler was selling a similar set up with the Airaid filter lol

[Larry Navarro]

Truthfully, the standard 2.5" tall paper filter supplied with the WFO flows just fine.
Not to be condescending, as I value each one of you who use my product...... I know this K&N and air-raid stuff is all the rage but I've done plenty of track testing with $pricey$ filters, paper filters and NO filters. The difference is miniscule, we are talking hundredths/sec. in the 1/4 mile times.
If your skeptical, let me offer this bit of information.......my T/A runs mid-11's @119.
Do the math on HP vs. 1/4 mile ET.
There's really NO benefit using after market filters.
Study the contours of the WFO, both the lid and the base.......large radial curves, no sharp turns do disrupt airflow to the carb venturi's.

Check out what the NASCAR guys use when it comes to design and airflow....and those engines are turning 9,000 RPM.

[jonmachota78]

Larry, I don't disagree with anything you say. And those are respectable numbers. I only wanted to share an easy way to get more filter surface area for those combos that may need it and still retain the original shaker lid and WFO in the process. I don't have any track/dyno numbers to justify this approach. maybe this will interest the 'road paver' crowd, i don't see why this wouldn't work with a holley, tII, and spacer.

[Cliff R]

Nice looking set-up and it puts the lid way up off the carb which is also a good thing.

I can say for certain that the type of filter makes no difference, tested plenty of them at the track and a cheap paper filter from the local parts store runs as quick as any of the high dollar stuff.

I have ran into SERIOUS performance issues when the air cleaner was too short, and lid too close to the carburetor. Even tried the X-Treme lid from K & N when going to the RPM or stock intake with 1" spacer and the shorter air filter and my engine HATED that deal......Cliff

[Larry Navarro]

I will also note that the oil-impregnated filter was designed for dirty and muddy conditions. I used them (K&N) back in the 70's on my motocross bikes.
Before the K&N, oil-impregnated FOAM filters were the norm on Off-road vehicles and had to be serviced quite often (VARSOL bath) to remove the dirt and mud, which most folks are lazy in doing.
Then the K&N came along and offered a product that solved the service issue. They are most effective WHEN THEY are DIRTY..........which was noted by K&N representative at the off-road trade shows I attended back in the '70's.
I will also point out that the K&N method of cleaning is to simply knock the loose crud off the filter media and then re-oil it, that's all that's required. Cleaning the filter media actually degrades material, that's why the oiling of the gauze is so important. The oil attracts the dirt, the gauze simply keeps it trapped from being ingested to the engine.

I think most everyone would hate to open the hood and see a dirty filter in the middle of all the engine bling.

K&N and co. have done a brilliant job of marketing the products to the "on-road use" customer.

[Skip Fix]

I flow tested the paper filter and the TA sized K&N on a E head, intake carb and air cleaner base and the flow was a little less on the paper but only a small percent. So cleaner less air vs slightly dirtier more air-toss up.

[Formula8]

Nicely done.

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by jonmachota78

Couple more:

Thanks for posting

Charles

[BAD455TA]

Sweet!

[Formula8]

I did this not because I had any concerns about airflow though the media, my issue was the clearance above the carb. I have the 3" Airaid version on my car now and it certainly performs better than my early PTFB part. So much so that PTFB has followed our "ruts in the road" and now produces exactly what we have.

I like the air cleaner stud idea. By offsetting the filter a bit, you can use a lower air cleaner housing with the same drop base. That may just give you enough room to run an RPM in a 70-76 shaker with a 3" Airaid filter.

[Macho78]

Looks good!

[chuckies76ta]

Thanks again for the info.. I made my own lid. The filter sits up inside the shaker perfect.. Gained a good inch above carb..

Charles