[remy30006]

I tried searching the forum but came up empty. What is the correct number for the gto.
1119515 of 511 or other?

Thank you!

[6t5gto]

Yes. 1119515 is correct for 1963 to 1972. There are a bunch for sale on ebay. They often range from $100 to $175. Most will need to be restored.

[Dick Boneske]

Here's a picture of a "correct" regulator. You can buy a solid state version for less than $30 and put the original cover on it as I did. No more problems!

[bill ryder]

Dang Dick, you caught me off guard. Bet I looked at that pic for a couple minutes before I realized that is mine!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL "Bill"!

[6t5gto]

Dick, The judges did not nail you for not having a date correct regulator?

[bill ryder]

Hello 6t5gto, I will speak for Dick since that is a pic of my old 64. What are you seeing? The reg has been there at least since '87 when I bought the car. It is a 515 with correct date code. Cover has original paint. Car has 33000 miles, 29000 when I bought it. Has been judged many times by GTOAA. Last time at Dayton in 2013. I'm curious what you see. Always ready to learn. "Bill"!

[6t5gto]

I was not speaking of your regulator since I can not see if it has a date code or not. I was commenting on Dicks statement "You can buy a solid state version for less than $30 and put the original cover on it as I did." Thats why the question was directed to Dick.

[bill ryder]

I stand corrected!!!! I did not understand!! I'm sure Dick will fill us in. THANKS "Bill"!

[Dick Boneske]

Yes, that was Bill's car at Dayton in 2013. LOL. I'm afraid we're headed that direction, but not quite there yet. "Numbers matching" is becoming a bigger item each year.

From my experience with concours judging by GTOAA, date codes or options not on the PHS for your car do not matter. What matters is that every part is what could have been on the car from the factory. If parts are repros, any difference from OEM will cost points. I don't recall the judges paying any attention to date codes.

If you add Tripower, power brakes, air conditioning, or power steering to your GTO, and none of those options were on the car whan built, there would be no points deducted. If the added options have the wrong date codes, I don't believe it matters to the judges.

Back to the regulator, it'll be awhile before judging includes removing parts from the car to be able to view the date code. Regulators have the date code on the backside.

If the date codes on the cylinder heads need to be checked, the valve covers would have to be removed.

Do I have this right, or do I have misconceptions about judging?

[bill ryder]

You hit the nail on the head, my friend. Judging in both national organizations is OK. Sometimes they may get carried away with their own ideas, not reality, but still they are OK. Their time is being DONATED. "Bill"!

[8LUG]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

Yes, that was Bill's car at Dayton in 2013. LOL. I'm afraid we're headed that direction, but not quite there yet. "Numbers matching" is becoming a bigger item each year.

From my experience with concours judging by GTOAA, date codes or options not on the PHS for your car do not matter. What matters is that every part is what could have been on the car from the factory. If parts are repros, any difference from OEM will cost points. I don't recall the judges paying any attention to date codes.

If you add Tripower, power brakes, air conditioning, or power steering to your GTO, and none of those options were on the car whan built, there would be no points deducted. If the added options have the wrong date codes, I don't believe it matters to the judges.

Back to the regulator, it'll be awhile before judging includes removing parts from the car to be able to view the date code. Regulators have the date code on the backside.

If the date codes on the cylinder heads need to be checked, the valve covers would have to be removed.

Do I have this right, or do I have misconceptions about judging?

Voltage regulators have the date code and part number on the top side.

[goatman65]

I always wondered how the cover was attached, is it safe to assume the one in the pic is correct with the hex head bolts? I think mine has slotted hex head.

[60sstuff]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

Back to the regulator, Regulators have the date code on the backside.

As 8LUG states above, the part number and date code are on the front side of the mount flange and clearly visable, not on the backside.

Example below is a OEM #1119515 with a date code of 5M (Dec. 1965) stamped in view without removing from firewall.

Slotted hex head screws are factory correct.

[remy30006]

Dick,

Where could I get the solid state regulator that the old cover fits? that seems like an appealing option and have a good cover.

Thank you!

[Rich-Tripower]

Any decent parts store can sell you the solid state regulator. A lot of the Pontiac/GTO parts vendors sell them too. They have the cover riveted on, but the rivets are in the same location as the screws so drill them out, remove the cover and replace the cover with a good old original and screw it on. Be sure to include a good rubber gasket between the cover and the regulator base so it will be weathertight. Anyway, that's what I did.

[Dick Boneske]

Yes, Rich is right. All the auto parts stores around here have replacement regulators that will accept the Delco-Remy cover. Drill out the rivets, install the old cover, and use the same screws your old regulator had.

[remy30006]

Thank you guys thats very helpful, but looking at the pictures that you guys posted it brings up some questions I have. Im focusing on the engine compartment right now and just curious about a few things.

First the spark plug wire bracket on the passenger side, the ones picture have a plastic dipped bracket and I have seen ones with a removable plastic bracket. Which is correct?

Second is the starter wire tube by the exhaust manifold, did it come on all 64s? 2 engines that I have taken apart didnt have a stud on the head bolt there, one was a 78xw.
How vdoes it attach?

The firewall chaulk mark that says W15 what does that mean? I have seen that on other cars so must not be car specific?

Is the regulator cover suppose to be 60% gloss black like everything else?

Intake manifold bolts blue or black oxide?

Thank you!

[bill ryder]

Let me try to answer your questions in order. Others can chime in.
Wire loom is correct for part of '64 and was used on earlier model tri powers. Seems there was a mid year part number change, maybe, from memory. This has been discussed in earlier posts.
Started wire tube thru exhaust manifold. This is, by far, the most common but the forum has also documented the started wire loom going forward under the manifold and coming out in front of the exhaust manifold. From memory, I can't remember if the 2nd type has the studded head bolt or not. I believe Brody's car has the 2nd type. He may help us out on the head bolt.
Firewall paint markings. HUMMM. The verdict is still out on this one. I have pics of my car being this way. MOST disagree. The W15 is; W is body paint color nocturne blue and the 15: interior color admiral blue. Chuck Roberts confirmed this was so in 1993 at the Indy GTOAA. Enough for now.
Regulator cover paint is ??? Probably gloss but mine has orig. paint and has lost its gloss. Someone will jump in on that one.
Manifold bolts are engine blue painted when the assembly was painted EXCEPT the throttle cable brkt mount bolts and they are natural as is the cable brkt. "Bill"!

[Dick Boneske]

remy, To answer your questions, I've posted pictures of four of the five.

*The passenger side spark plug wire holder is the dipped-style bracket.

*The starter wire tube was present on all '64 Tempest V8's. It was held by a 3/8" nut with a star washer to a head bolt stud.

*Rearding marks on the firewall, sometimes, on a '64, there is evidence of a 237 or 2237, which would be related to the A-body configuration. The W15 however, I have no idea what that means and I suspect neither does anyone else. People see numbers in crayon on unmolested firewalls and remark them on theirs.

*The regulator cover, I believe, should be 60% gloss black.

*The intake bolt heads are definitely engine blue.

[remy30006]

on the manifold bolts the throttle bracket and the pcv bracket bolts should be natural? meaning zinc coated?

was the driver side wire loom dipped or have a plastic loom? My car was last week of january and a 4 barrel.


Also was there another pcv bracket further forward and on top that the hose rested in on tempest engines? I have seen them on big car engines.

Thank you everybody!