[79firebird_99TA]

I replaced my sloppy leaking stock steering gear box with a rebuilt from Autozone (don't hate ... although that may be the problem). Anyhow, while I was at it I rebuilt my rag joint. Car pulls hard left now. Not knowing the internals - I don't see how anything else could be the culprit. Those are the only 2 variables that changed. Since then, I replaced all tie rods, sleeves, center link; idler arm was only a couple of months old. I had it aligned and tires balanced and it still pulls bad.

[indymanjoe]

Before the change was it pulling left? I would jack the front up and see if the brake caliper isnt sticking.wag on my part...

[79firebird_99TA]

It wasn't pulling at all before the work. I feel the power assist going left and it's difficult turning the wheel right. I don't know the internals of those gearboxes, but I imagine there's some valve/ports and route the fluid pressure to assist when steering wheel moves off center. Since there is only one way to install pitman arm, rag joint to steering box input shaft, intermediate shaft to to steering wheel ujoint coupler - I tend to think that something is wrong internal to the steering box.... as in something is off center inside of the box.

[KO]

jack it up, center the wheel and start the engine, if the wheels turn, there is problem with the centering valve in the box

[79firebird_99TA]

Originally Posted by KO

jack it up, center the wheel and start the engine, if the wheels turn, there is problem with the centering valve in the box

hmmm ... wheel doesn't turn. I even loosened up the preload on the steering gear. Steering feels fluid turning end to end both ways with wheels off the ground. L wheel spins freely so no issues with brakes/caliper.

[KO]

the box is the only real variable, the other stuff affects toe which will center itself no matter how far off it is

[79firebird_99TA]

Originally Posted by KO

the box is the only real variable, the other stuff affects toe which will center itself no matter how far off it is

I agree .... and I know that the toe is dead on after alignment yesterday. I was IN the shop hanging with my alignment guy ... so I saw the numbers. I can't help but try to retrace my steps. The only thing that comes to mind - and I can't see how that's going to make it pull like it does is - I made the mistake of tapping the intermediate shaft back towards the firewall so as to clear the rag joint. I rebuilt the rag joint and it's attached with nuts and bolts now; I had to use them to draw the flange of the shaft to the rag joint - if that makes any sense. Again ... can't see how that would effect anything. Secondly, I had the L side only in the air when I did the work. I disconnected the sway bar from the frame but left attached to end links so when I torqued it back down it wasn't evenly loaded. Still can't see how that effects it.

[rexs73gto]

It sounds as if the centering valve is bad in the box when you apply pressure to it as in a turning move or whenit's under any kind of boost. Pull it off & take it back & get a good quality one or just go to the junk yard & get one from an 86-89 T/A or just about any Grand Cheeorke in the late 80's early 90's & you'll be happy & you will only spend about $ 50.00 from the junk yard for a great replacement box.

[TedRamAirII]

Otto Zone = Cardone = JUNK. Drive it, turn the engine off. Pulling stops? bad gear box.

[HWYSTR455]

All the 800 cores I've seen over the last year or two have been junk from a number of sources, they're all junk unless a custom shop goes through them.

I've had a number of AGR boxes that were junk, and have heard of others with the same experience. Only option is to go to a different series.

I still need a box for the clone, been busy and haven't replaced it yet, not sure what I'm going to do there. I refuse to use a junk yard box either, stand running into the same problem.

.

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

All the 800 cores I've seen over the last year or two have been junk from a number of sources, they're all junk unless a custom shop goes through them.

I've had a number of AGR boxes that were junk, and have heard of others with the same experience. Only option is to go to a different series.

I still need a box for the clone, been busy and haven't replaced it yet, not sure what I'm going to do there. I refuse to use a junk yard box either, stand running into the same problem.

.

I would trust a used box over any that had been "remanufactured" by a non english speaking worker at a remanufacturing plant. Same for engines. I would rather have a 100K used engine than a "reman". I'm talking modern engines of course, not our beloved Pontiacs. ; )

[KO]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

I would trust a used box over any that had been "remanufactured" by a non english speaking worker at a remanufacturing plant. Same for engines. I would rather have a 100K used engine than a "reman". I'm talking modern engines of course, not our beloved Pontiacs. ; )

yes exactly it is very rare for steering boxes to go bad, worse case replace the seals which is simple to do. I worked as a mechanic in a body shop and I replaced many internally bent steering boxes and the core went back for reman. I told them every time the core was no good but they didn't care.

[KO]

I have a bunch of good used 79 Trans Am boxes all from cars I have personally driven

[HWYSTR455]

Still have to carefully inspect the vehicle the box is coming out of, for any front end damage or suspension damage, as well as miles. And you still aren't sure it's going to be good, or for any length of time. Can't be sure of miles in the yard either. It also could have been replaced at some point, and you end up with the same problem as with a reman.

F-body boxes have incorrect stops in them for A-bodies.

Best option is a new 670 box, or one of the new 500 boxes, but I haven't heard any reviews of the 500 boxes yet.

You give it another year or two and all the jeep and iroc boxes are going to be junk too. You get what you pay for, unless you get lucky, and that's what it is, luck, especially from a junk yard. You get a vehicle that had a pump burnout and the box is going to be compromised. Or if the proper fluids weren't used, it's going to leak. Your chances are better, but it's still a chance.

.

[79firebird_99TA]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

It sounds as if the centering valve is bad in the box when you apply pressure to it as in a turning move or whenit's under any kind of boost. Pull it off & take it back & get a good quality one or just go to the junk yard & get one from an 86-89 T/A or just about any Grand Cheeorke in the late 80's early 90's & you'll be happy & you will only spend about $ 50.00 from the junk yard for a great replacement box.

Turns out it was a centering valve problem under load. It wouldn't pull just jacked up and running... but would under load. I am keeping my stock gearbox instead of turning in as the core. It really just needs seals. AZ did replace the faulty one and I guess I got lucky because the second one is good to go with no pull.

[indymanjoe]

Nice to hear the fix,may help someone.

[indymanjoe]

Nice to hear the fix,may help someone.

[79firebird_99TA]

After driving around with this junk Duralast steering gearbox for the past several months, I've had enough. I've replaced most everything on the front end with Moog and the ride is rickety as hell. There's so much play in the steering from that box that it's down right dangerous to drive on some curves on the highway. As a matter of fact, at any speed, I can go into a turn to the R and have to pull the wheel back to the L or it sticks. What junk .....

Last night I ordered the CP50004 box after debating on the 670 or sending my original in. I'm reading good things about that box.

Considering that I installed 2 of their bad boxes (shame on me for even trying 1), I will be paying AZ a visit and asking for my money back. If they don't budge, I will ask for a store credit so that I can use it for oil, filter, rags ...etc...