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#1
05-21-2015, 01:40 PM
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Problem with tubular control arms...help!
I am doing a frame up build of a 65 GTO convertible. I am working on the frame (with no engine) and installed tubular control arms. The problem is that my spindles are WAY too tight. It looks like the ball joints are binding because of the extreme angle without weight on the coil springs. Is this normal? I can't even tighten the lower castle nuts to get the cotter pins in. Please help.
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#2
05-21-2015, 01:41 PM
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here is pic:
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#3
05-22-2015, 10:14 AM
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You most likely need some weight in the car. Once you have engine and body back on you can put a jack under the lower control arm and should be able to get the ball joint in all the way. You could try getting a few hefty guys on the frame for weight too.
I wouldn't try and pull the ball joint in by threading the nut, will probably just strip it.
__________________
Derek B. Current best: 11.97@110 1.65-60' !!! '74 ventura,  (Fired july 14/06) '74 462 4-bolt (9.5-1), SCAT, Ross, T-II w/850DP (shaker455), TH350, Conti 10'' 3800, Supercomps, Magnaflow, 3'' Pypes, 3.73's, 28x13.5-15 ET streets.1970 Beismeyer 17' flatbottom vdrive, 11.8:1 455P, ported heads, dual Qjet tunnel ram. 
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#4
05-22-2015, 04:17 PM
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You can wrap a nylon lifting strap around the bottom of your floor jack and over the A arm. Jack the lower A arm up while the strap holds the upper. It's really quite easy and very safe.
__________________
BONESTOCK GOATS '64 GTO Tripower Hardtop (Wife's Car) '64 GTO Tripower Post Coupe (My Car) '99 Bonneville SE Sedan |
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#5
05-22-2015, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
I do not see a coil spring compressor in your spring. At the minimum you should have a piece of ready rod and a nut on each end to keep the spring from flying out of the control arm if the jack were to slip off the lower control arm. Tom Vaught
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#6
05-23-2015, 02:23 AM
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i had a similar problem with my 64. I was using stock parts but I was assembling the ball joints on an empty frame. I took a piece of threaded rod and one piece of a coil spring compressor and a block of wood. I put the coil spring "claw" on the lowest coil I could ran the rod up through the upper shock hole, put some rags down on my new paint, drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the wood block, stacked 2 1/2 fender washers with some moly lube between them, and tightened the nut with an air gun. BAM! Installed ball joint nuts and released the spring. I also rachet strapped the spring to the lower control arm just in case.
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#7
05-23-2015, 10:31 AM
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Which problem were you having? Was your spindle really tight? I can't hardly tighten the bottom castle nut enough to get the cotter pin in.
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#8
05-23-2015, 11:58 AM
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i couldn't compress the spring enough.
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#9
05-23-2015, 12:07 PM
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Wait until the car is completely assembled to tighten the ball joint nuts. You need the weight of the car sitting on the suspension to help seat the ball joint studs into the spindles. The way it is now you have everything in a bind.
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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