[MaxWT]

I received negative comments about my frame/suspension paint from a Concours judge. What is the correct sheen of the black paint?

[PurelyGTO68]

In my opinion, the judge should have informed you what sheen was expected.

I am getting ready to start a frame off restoration on my 68 and I plan on using Chassis Black found at our local auto body paint shop. If someone doesn't like it then they can get their own car and paint it whatever color they want. Actually I am thinking of having it powder coated this time but the color will be very similar.

I stopped using POR brand chassis black paint because it has a fairly short shelf life and I always seem to end up with stale product.

If you are looking for rattle can chassis black, I have used SEM and NAPA brand with good results. The NAPA brand is Martin Senour Paint 7243. It is reasonably priced and appears to be of high quality. Hope this helps.

[Jeff Hamlin]

Chassis black should be about 60% degree gloss, aka Semi.

[MaxWT]

To PurelyGTO68, I agree, I would have liked to have some more info from the judge.

To Jeff Hamlin, Thanks, I thought it should be the 60% Semi gloss.

Your replies are appreciated.

[fiedlerh]

I've seen many concours restorations with the paint too flat (IMHO).
It was closer to glossy than matte back in the day, BUT:
It was thinly applied and some areas were missed.
It was cheap paint, so the gloss went away pretty quick.
Based on the NOS parts I have, they were stingy with the black pigment. To make it right, I would probably add around 10% clear to the mix.
The specifications were probably not that stringent, so there will be year-to-year and plant-to-plant variations. There was a GM spec number for the paint, but I have not found what the spec means.
I don't know what it was in the late 60's, but a 72-73 spec for underhood parts was "...black enamel per 9790607 (#s hard to read) or equivalent. Finish must conform with GM 4350-M, class A96."

[PurelyGTO68]

This stuff is pretty good. I bought a gallon and ended up using all of it. It seemed to cover pretty well but I sprayed 3 coats anyway. One gallon can was enough for everything on the car I was working on ('61 full size)...frame, inner fenders, core support, under hood, air cleaner, brackets etc. If it's available at the local paint store then I'll probably use it again.

http://melrosecorvette.com/gm-chassis-paint-1050104/

[Bet Winner]

Originally Posted by MaxWT

I received negative comments about my frame/suspension paint from a Concours judge. What is the correct sheen of the black paint?

With the variances that paint surely got from factory to factory, it seems odd to get a comment from a judge unless the frame paint was very glossy or very flat. And at many/some of the inside shows I have seen, the lighting is very weak. The judges need to carry flash lights to see engine and suspension parts well. It is probably not easy to determine the gloss on a frame under a car in a dimly lit inside venue. And it is my thought that sometimes the way many of the cars are being restored becomes "factory correct" in many eyes. That may not be the case of course.

Did you paint the frame very glossy or very flat? I can understand a comment then.

[hakansan]

It´s a picture in the old GTO Restoration Guide (1985) on page 17 with a finger pointing on a frame where the finger is clearly reflecting on the frame. Anyone now if this is a restored frame or not?

[PaulatFast]

Frames should be glossier than the floors. Firewalls should be a touch flatter than the inner fenders and the core support. General rules to follow when restoring and judging.

Curious what was the exact comment?

Was there a point deduction?

[Jerry H.]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

This stuff is pretty good. I bought a gallon and ended up using all of it. It seemed to cover pretty well but I sprayed 3 coats anyway. One gallon can was enough for everything on the car I was working on ('61 full size)...frame, inner fenders, core support, under hood, air cleaner, brackets etc. If it's available at the local paint store then I'll probably use it again.

http://melrosecorvette.com/gm-chassis-paint-1050104/

Wow, that stuff has sure gotten pricey over the years! I remember buying it in 4 gallon cases for $32.00. That was not per gallon, that was for all 4! It WAS very good paint, but when they took the lead out I quit using it. Seemed it lost some of it's 'sheen' and it's durability.

[MD79TA]

Don't like high jacking your thread but what do you guys use for engine bay and fite wall. Ready to drop engine in . Thanks Doug

[MaxWT]

[QUOTE=PaulatFast;5437165]Frames should be glossier than the floors. Firewalls should be a touch flatter than the inner fenders and the core support. General rules to follow when restoring and judging.
I'm
Curious what was the exact comment?

Was there a point deduction?

[MaxWT]

The comment was just "poor paint". I had just touched it up.

Yes, there was significant point reduction.

Thanks for the reply. MaxWT

[My442]

Smalls and A arms were dipped in a tank of water that had paint floating on the top.

No primer was used.

The chassis was built upside down, and a very light mist of cheap black paint was sprayed on it before it was flipped over for the body mounting.

This is what I saw at the Framingham GM plant in 1972 when I worked on the assembly line.

The amount of TLC these cars received was minimal, on a good day.

[MaxWT]

My 442,

I'm not surprised about the way these frames were painted. It's good to hear confirmation from someone who was there.

Thanks!