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#1
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I read that the grommet I pictured below actually helps the booster breathe for a better braking car when removed????? This doesn't seem possible but before I go remove it, is there anything to this?
I've been chasing a hard pedal for years and have added a vacuum pump at 20" of vacuum, new stainless lines and prop valve (totally bled), rebuilt the master cylinder (SSBC 1 1/8" with 9" Booster) and it still brakes pretty poorly with no chance of locking em up. Before I try a dual diaphragm 9" by Tuff Stuff I'm willing to remove the grommet if this actually will do something.
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69 GTO Convertible, 4000lbs 462ci, 606tq/569hp - 93 oct @ 34 deg (207psi) 11.7:1, KRE H Ports, Lunati HR 282/290 w Johnson Lifters & 1.65 Scorp, E30, EFI, Holley HP + Dual Sync, 12-1 Crank Trig, 120lb Inj & 1000cfm TB, Torker II EFI Int & Rails, PTC 10", Rock Valley SS Tank, Dual 450s, Aerom EFI Reg, Aero Front & Wilwood Rear Disc Brakes, Dougs 1 7/8" & Borla Pro XS 3", Alum Rad & Dual Fans, 12:1 Box, UMI Arms & Viking Berz Fr + Rear CO Shocks, Hella UP5.0 Vac Pump, 12 Bolt, 3.73, 33 Spline |
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#2
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I converted a manual drum car to power disc. Super bard pedal and not much brake. worked on it months, no answers from OEMs. Turns out the rubber boot on MC is only to be used on manual brake set UPS. That's what fixed it anyway I changed several new and used booster, from other cars etc. My problem was basically a vapor lock on the booster. It has to have atmospheric pressure on one side (breath)
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