[Alvin]

K so new TX vehicle registration program experience yesterday...

Tags due this month so gonna renew...neighbor stops by and I notice his tags are also due to rennew this month and mentioned I was on my way to renew. He advised new deal had to get inspection 1st then registration. No worries...go to his recommended Jif Lube (cause my usual peeps were buzy & unavailable) and that's where story gets interesting

So pay the "reduced" inspection fee of $25.50 (IIRC - previous was $39.00*) and wait in the "customer cell" and mgr comes to me with paperwork and statement "You passed - but you failed" What? I say...

Replaced 5yr old battery couple of weeks before...only drove low speed in the 'hood and because of that vehicle OBD 'puter showed for following.

Catalyst: Not Ready
Evap Sys: Not Ready

So my vehicle "passed - but failed"

I was told => "Drive 80 to 100 miles and come back in 15 days"

So I drive away saying WTF...called a bud, he contacted his cousin who does the TX DPS Inspection Training...who told me they can tell in "training mode" when computer has reset and ready to pass.

So from my knowledge of Vag-Com OBD modules figured that I needed to "rod dawg" drive vehicle to get exhaust system hot and register.

Sure 'nuff that's all it took...returned 30 mins later, advised tech to look @ "training mode" for modules ready and passed.

Shared with mgrs and tech: if my wife had come here and called me to tell this - I'd think you were trying to rip her off.

Takeaway: wasn't the tech's fault. Due to a recent battery change OBD computer modules hadn't reset due to low speed in town only driving.

So what about Grandma & Grandpa who only drive slow in town?

*noticed while I was inline to pay for registration a new state rate line "OBD INSPECTION $15.00" above and beyond what I paid @ local inspection location...

Enjoy the day I say!

[Lloyd-TX]

That's the way it is now, Alvin.

1996 thru 2000 model OBD-II compliant vehicles can have two of their "readiness tests" (or "monitors") not run and passed, but 2001 models and newer models must have at least all but one of the tests run and passed.

Some vehicles we see here at our shop can be driven for MONTHS and they still won't have run and passed enough tests. Sucks for the customer. Crappy ECU software authoring by the engineers is the root of the problem.

The "EVAP" system readiness test is usually one of the most difficult to get to run because of all of the pre-conditions that must be met before it will run that test. But each year make and model can present difficulties with ANY of the tests.

Generally, my tech can usually get enough tests to run by "driving it like it's stolen", with several freeway miles involved, A/C off.

[camerjeff]

I can put up with the lousy winters and all the murder capital jokes just because I don't have to go thru yearly emissions testing in Michigan!!!!! But I do remember the pain of Colorado and California yearly testing. Do not miss it at all.

[njsteve]

Our 2001 WS6 6-speed passed the emissions test with no problem this morning. Only complaint I had was that they used a dull razor to scrape the old sticker off and planted the new sticker right on top of the half-scraped old spot. But hey, what can you do...

[SRR]

I was told by a Master Tech at a smog test station to always use a "memory saver" if changing out the battery in a modern computer controlled car. I have swapped a few batteries for customers and have seen stalling problems with Fords, traction control faults with Chrysler products, won't idle at first with some Japanese cars or the alarms will blare when you hook up the new battery.

[Super Duty D]

So to me a "memory saver" is a 12-13 DC Volt external power supply that is supplied to ground and the positive cable, so that the computer will not loose connection and power for too long while doing said battery swap.
I would think 2-3 amp. capacity would be fine. Maybe rig up some D cell batteries or any decent used car battery should do the job as long as it's reading 12.4 volts or better. JMO.

[chevymad]

There is a possible issue using a memory saver and setting off airbags however.

[SRR]

No, the one I'm talking about plugs into the OBD II port and looks like one of those jumper boxes or parts stores sell one that uses a 9 volt battery but you better make sure everything is off in the car and work fast...it won't last long!

[tigergto]

Mine plugs into the a 12 volt accessories port ( used to be called a cigarette lighter) and has a 9 volt battery attached.

[salem1912]

One of the reasons here in Pa. emissions inspection must be done before safety inspection. To be told to drive for a 100 miles is one way to make sure all the monitors run,most car have 4 or 5 different ones. You can do a drive cycle that takes about 20 minutes if you know parameters it takes to run them,i.e. 45mph light throttle. As stated before evap is the hardest but most programs will let one not ready monitor go though. Jiff Lube(the guys that have 3-4 people sign your oil filter to much sure it's on) probably were busy and just wanted you out of the way for awhile.

[68azbird]

If you do the drive cycle property it can be done typically 35 miles. Obd2 scanner helps a lot to know when it's passed. Most car owners are unaware of the whole process for the evap system or even what it is.

[bird72]

Heck, you can go on bank robbing rampages in Montana and still drive, what are vehicle inspections?

ps. lived in NM many years ago and had a gas station where you just gave him 20 bucks and he gave you a sticker, it was great.....

[GT182]

Actually you can drive only 40 to 50 mile to get a reset. When you change out the battery you have a max of 10 minutes to make the change. But that could vary from vehicle to vehicle. First cable to hook up is the positive side. Even with the negative side unhooked the computer still gets power.

Looks like the car sat for a good length of time with no battery hooked up. If you done a quick change you wouldn't have had that problem.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by GT182

Actually you can drive only 40 to 50 mile to get a reset. When you change out the battery you have a max of 10 minutes to make the change. But that could vary from vehicle to vehicle. First cable to hook up is the positive side. Even with the negative side unhooked the computer still gets power.

Looks like the car sat for a good length of time with no battery hooked up. If you done a quick change you wouldn't have had that problem.

1st: Thanks to all of the sincere posts on the why/how/what recomendations.

Yeah...for the record this is 3rd battery changeout on my F150...never had this issue BF...1,000 cold crank amp battery decided to take a sudden dump after 5 yrs wo warning and drop down to 8.4 volts...knew it was bad when it wounding jump off with new Lith-Ion jump starter and old reliable amp charger needed for batter to charge up to normal 12.4 volts wouldn't hold charge overnight...battery back down to 8.4 nxt morning...so battery was done.

Drove over to store w truck...tested bad there...them told me I had to take out the battery so they could charge it to see if it'd hold charge... remove it, take it in and within a few minutes they could tell battery was DOA...by the time swapped out w new back to garage etc. over 1 hour...no big deal...until,time for inspection.

Have OBDII Vag-Com software & reset codes, monitor modules, etc....didn't have ANY diag tools on my belt at inspection time...never even considered it as no CEL or abnormal operation apparent. As Lloyd stated - new OBDII regs by STATE is what started this monkey bizness.

"Your results may vary"

[salem1912]

Every time you clear a ck engine lite or disconnect the battery it resets the monitors. I work mostly on Mopars and Jeeps so I know the drive cycle for them and can have them reset in about 4-5 miles. Except evap,I don't even try that one.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by salem1912

Every time you clear a ck engine lite or disconnect the battery it resets the monitors. I work mostly on Mopars and Jeeps so I know the drive cycle for them and can have them reset in about 4-5 miles. Except evap,I don't even try that one.

Yessir...even after "Drove it like I stole it" 20+ mile mode (as mentioned) I noted the Evap System still showed "Not Ready" but didn't care as it passed the inspection...

[Teej]

Originally Posted by GT182

Actually you can drive only 40 to 50 mile to get a reset. When you change out the battery you have a max of 10 minutes to make the change. But that could vary from vehicle to vehicle. First cable to hook up is the positive side. Even with the negative side unhooked the computer still gets power.

How can the computer still get power if the negative side is not connected. It still needs a complete circuit, right?

Like why you disconnect the negative side first, so that when you put the wrench on the positive post and it bumps the frame/body, nothing happens because there is no ground path for a short circuit. Then reinstall the positive cable first for the same reason. If the wrench hits the body/frame while on the negative post, no problem.

[GT182]

Teej, I have no idea. It's what I've been told by my local auto parts store as they sell batteries. When doing certain repairs the manuals say to disconnect the negative cable for certain electrical repairs.. I've done that on my Jeep and the Taurus we had for well over and hour with the PCM being fine and not needing to relearn anything.

BTW Alvin... stay away from Interstate Batteries. Their warranty is no longer any good over 24 months. Excide will warranty their batteries for 40 months. If you have problems in the 39th month they will replace it at no charge to you.

[mechanickeith]

This is why I don't own anything newer than a 1965. No emissions test of any kind. $31 bucks for 2 years of registration. Dirt cheap insurance too!!

[The Boss]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Our 2001 WS6 6-speed passed the emissions test with no problem this morning. Only complaint I had was that they used a dull razor to scrape the old sticker off and planted the new sticker right on top of the half-scraped old spot. But hey, what can you do...

My 91 1LE passed with flying colors when I had it tested earlier this year. Tech did say that it wouldn't have mattered - you have 6 months to come back for a re-test and by then it would have aged out.