[Shiny]

Please tell me how to get this apart (photo) without destroying it.

Trying to disassemble a manual steering column, cannot figure out how to remove the bowl (part 38 in the attached diagram) from the jacket (part 32), as the die-cast bowl seems to be stuck hard on the tube assembly (52).

I tried hitting the tube with a wood block but it did not seem to budge so figure I better ask before I break it.

Is there a key, clip, or fastener I'm missing?

[Goatracer1]

What year and model? There are usually screws.

[Shiny]

Thanks Goatracer1

I'm not sure what this column came out of.

I look down the steel tube and don't see any fasteners, bit there is an extruded rectangular "dimple" in the tube that keys the tube to the die-cast bowl.

Where would screws be located? I don't see them on the diagram either.

To me, this die-cast bowl is either press fit onto the shaft, or is stuck by corrosion, or there is some kind of clip I haven't spotted. As you can see in the picture, the casting is actually split, so it is hard to believe it can be pressed very strong.

[Shiny]

It appears I cannot get there from here.

I found a discussion on a Chevelle forum that spelled it out:

"The shift bowl is a press fit into the shift tube which extends down inside the steering column. The shift tube is rather delicate since it is designed in two pieces and is supposed to telescope onto itself in a collision.

I don't know of any easy way to get the bowl off of the shift tube without special GM tools."

It seems the manual shift column I have must be from a 67 or 68 and will not be easy to adapt to my 70, nor maybe smart. For now, I'll just remove the shift lever and indicator from my original column and accept it for now. I am pretty confident I can keep the back drive and original switches working with the aftermarket shifter, and obviously I can keep it with a stock shifter if I go that way.

I'll keep my eye open for a used manual column correct for 70 and if it gets frustrating, I can always spend a lot for a remanufactured unit.

[rexs73gto]

What year car are you needing a column for ? Do you need a tilt column for the car or just a std. one with floor shift ??? If you need a floor shift with tilt or just a std. column there are lots of them on ebay right now for under $ 150.00 & some for a lot less. Let me know what kind of car >>>>>......

[Shiny]

Per my previous post, my car is a 70.

I looked at columns on Ebay and didn't see anything ringing bells for me for the price (given all the other projects on the list with higher priority), but I am giving it some thought. I suspect I can live with pulling the shift lever and indicator off mine in the short run. (although that PRNDL pointer is going to be annoying).

I had this one tucked away, thinking it would work, and timing was opportunistic. I was wrong. I'll work through it.

[rexs73gto]

Is it a 70 GTO or Bird. That makes a diff. The tilt columns on ebay usually run about $ 125.00 -150.00. If your looking not to spend at least that much of a correct column then use the column with the handle taken off as you won't unless you find someone local that just want to get rid of one for any less. I sold my last one to another dealer for $ 125.00 & I was giving it away for some future dealings.

[Shiny]

Sorry, a LeMans

I have no unrealistic expectation of finding even a non-tilt column for less than you say.

The debate with my rational self is I could see a $150 column easily costing $400 if it was worn out and needed bearings, cam, lever, switches, etc. Not unreasonable, just not clear this is a current priority project. I need to try and clean up a formula wheel my friend gave me too, so this will snowball.

I looked at PY listings, checking on a couple that might work. I also want to open up the one in my car and see what shape it is in as a parts donor if I decide I need to take this on now.

[GStage1]

73-75 A-body columns will also work.

Doesn't necessarily have to be a 4 spd column...auto columns will work the same. Has to be 70-75...69 will work to but has minor electrical connector differences.

[rexs73gto]

I sold a column to Barry Martin , Sonic Motors a little while ago & he may still have it & you should be able to get it at a reasonable price, try him It came out of 1 of my 73 GTO's & will bolt right in, the car only had 52K on it & was in very good shape Tell him Rex sent you & he'll treat you right.

[Lanny]

Why are you trying to take the tube out anyways?
The only thing you would do that for is to replace the bottom seal and you can put that in from the bottom if you are careful .
anyways when I use to build them on the assembly line they are a compression fit when we had to take them apart we used a rubber mallet and you will have to work at it awile ; when you get it off you will have a hell of a time getting it back together unless you have the puller otherwise you WILL crush the tube trying to get it back into the bowl all the way seated .
and by the way they are keyed by the tube being expanded .
Good Luck

[Shiny]

Thanks all

I bought a column off eBay, trying to make it work now. It is OK, but the housing was bent. So far, I am close to straightening without it cracking, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Lanny, I was taking the old one apart to clean up, paint, and replace anything worn out. That plus I like taking stuff apart to see how it works

I wanted to remove the housing from the tube to make it easier to clean and paint, but yes, it was not coming off. I did see the protrusion on the tube that keys it to the housing. You do know these parts !! I pounded on the tube with a hammer and wood block, it didn't budge, so I gave up.

It would be easier to clean if apart, but just not worth messing with.

[Lanny]

Shiny
in the factory when we repainted the columns (scuffs) it was the cheep cans of paint we used the really cheep stuff ; ALL WERE BLACK then color after if called for.
first hang up the column then take and air hose blower and blow the paint when spraying it from the can this will give you the texture that looks right .
sounds kinda strange but thats how we did it you don't have to worry too much about getting paint on the end of the tube it won't hurt it .
when you put the housing back in use blue locktight on the 4 bolts make sure they are tight but don't over tighten them on the top housing
BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNOCK THE BEARINGS OUT
if you do you will have a column that feels like there is gravel in it.
NOTE be very careful not to nick the wires when stuffing the switch back in
how this helps

[Shiny]

Lanny

Thanks for all the info.. I'll post questions if I get stuck.