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| The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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I am struggling to get a uniform texture on a formula wheel hub and need advice.
I primed it with a rustoleum aerosol, wet-sanded smooth with 600, then used VHT wrinkle paint. It sprayed great and looked very uniform when wet, but came out non-uniform when it wrinkled, and I'll have to strip and start over. I'm disappointed and want to try and get it better next time. I also think the wrinkle texture looks pretty rough, but have never seen an original black one. My hub started out red, so was from a TA, and had a somewhat rough texture but not wrinkled. Was the original wrinkled or just rough-textured? The VHT black also looks too glossy to me, even wrinkly. Did I mess it up or should I try a different brand? Is there a trick to getting it uniform with a spray can? Should I eliminate the primer? Would I be better off using a RustOleum textured spray instead of a wrinkle finish? |
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#2
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Quote:
Dave |
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#3
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I've done two hubs with a powder coat wrinkle finish and although not perfectly factory looking were good enough for driver cars I felt. Craig (Norwood) here on the board can refinish your hub and have it look factory - not sure of his process, might be proprietary, but it nails it.
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Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
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#4
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When i did mine, the instructions on the can said to put down 3 coats, allowing a specific drying time between coats. After the third coat, i hung it in the sun and it wrinkled nicely. You want to have as even of warmth all around it during wrinkle time. I used plasticoat but i am sure vht is as good if not better.
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1968 Firebird 400HO convertible 1971 Trans Am 4-speed, white/blue |
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#5
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I think heat is the key for the wrinkle effect, try using a hair dryer or heat gun to give it a little kick start before it cures.
I don't think I've used primer under the wrinkle paint, read the can to see what they recommend. Last edited by steve v; 10-26-2015 at 01:36 PM. |
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#6
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It will depend on the coats. Uneven coats= uneven wrinkling.
http://www.build-threads.com/general...texture-paint/
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1968 Firebird 400 RAII M21, 3.31 12 bolt, Mayfair Maize. 1977 Trans Am W72 400, TH350, 3.23 T Top Everyone you will ever meet knows something you don't. Bill Nye. Last edited by TedRamAirII; 10-26-2015 at 04:55 PM. |
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#7
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the wrinkle i used on metal years ago had to have heat applied to make it wrinkle,
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DBANDGB |
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#8
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I've always used the VHT wrinkle paint on the hubs I've repainted. I think I have redone about 20-25 of them. The best way I have found is to strip them down to the bare metal , then clean them good, I use to put them in the dish washer when i did some dishes to make sure they are good & clean. Then wipe them down with thinner, & then alcohol. Let it dry without wiping it. Get it warm either by letting it sit in the sun or putting it in the oven so it gets warm NOT HOT !!! If you use the oven I just get it warm enough to be able to pick it up & warm to touch. While it warm Hang it up so you can spray all around it. Spray 2-3 very light coats while it warm & it will start to wrinkle almost right away. Depending on how warm it is it may take a few 30-60 seconds to start wrinkling up. On the 1st. light coat it will show you how it's going to look when it dry. If it looks uneven then change the way you sprayed it so it will cover differently the 2nd coat. Spray a 3rd coat if it doesn't look heavy enough. If you want a different look more as a textured coat ,,, this will take a lot of practice but when it's drying you can roll the wrinkle with something round like a roll of tape which will flatten the wrinkle down & give it more of a textured look, but it took my about 20 times on the same hub to get it to the point I wanted it to look. But making the hub warm usually make it turn out the way it should look but rolling it can give you options.
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#9
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Thanks to all for the quick feedback and great suggestions.
My failure to follow directions on the can!! I only used one heavy coat, so if I stick with the VHT, I will try again with 3 lighter coats/5 minutes between per the linked demo, printed directions, and wisdom of 68bird400HO & rexs73gto. The VHT levels really well and is so glossy when applied there is no way to tell how uniform it really is. I guess that's the idea of going a different direction with each coat as a way to get a more uniform thickness from a spray can. Pics show how it almost looks OK from some angles, then jumps out ugly from others. The way it shrank, it does appear consistent with me spraying one direction and not being uniform. I still think this VHT paint is too glossy, though.... Boss, I like how yours is less glossy than the paint on the column. 68bird400HO, I'm glad to hear you were able to get it done. How does yours compare with the gloss of the VHT in my pics and the powder-coat in Boss's? I may chase down the Plasticote version if yours is toned down a little. rexs73gto, I like your idea of rolling it to flatten a little. I noticed it was pretty soft after a day still, so I expect that would work well to soften it up if the wrinkles seem too pronounced. The pre-heat is a thought, I may practice on something else and see if that helps me get the paint on uniform. |
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#10
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By using the 1 heavy coat thats why yours is looking a bit to shiny. With the 3 thinner coats it will dull down a bit as it will dry faster so the gloss will work itself out. If it's still soft after a day or day & 1/2 half your coats must have been real heavy , it should dry down complete in about 3-4 hours.
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#11
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I am not up to this task, apparently.
I have now sanded and applied the VHT Wrinkle 3 times, experiencing a different problem every time. The 2nd run I sprayed 3 times, but still ended up with a spot that did not wrinkle. I tried spraying over that flat spot again and made it worse, so back to metal. This 3rd time, I warmed the hub slightly under a trouble light, again sprayed 3 times, with 5 minutes (used a timer) between each. It looked uniform as it was drying (picture of wet coating), and I walked away. When I came back, I found it had wrinkled uniformly , but "split" in a couple spots, appearing like the top layer was not stuck to the lower layer and pulled back on itself . I don't get this, as each layer still looked wet as I applied the next, but is what it is.I am done with this VHT stuff, will have to strip again... I'll see if I can find the Plastikote or just use a textured paint. It may be the humidity (the RH isn't going to drop here in Seattle area any time soon), but more likely I am just lacking basic spray-can skills. |
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#12
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after painting, put a heat lamp on it and watch it,it should wrinkle, if it is large you will have to move the lamp.
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DBANDGB |
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#13
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It took me a few tries to get it right as well. Mine looks a lot like pic 2 in post 9. The plastikote I had was a pretty old can. Not sure of the quality today. It looks like you were getting pretty close. Maybe set it up so you can get 3 even coats and then move it directly into a warmed oven (maybe 140 degrees or so).
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1968 Firebird 400HO convertible 1971 Trans Am 4-speed, white/blue |
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#14
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Thanks for suggestions about heat after application. I did try to speed up the drying by placing it about 4 inches under a 60W bulb with a reflector.
I am going to try a different brand before giving up. I struck out at O'Reilly's, may have to order online and wait... I did figure out how to chuck it in my cordless drill, which at least helps sand the stuff back off. |
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#15
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Your 2nd attempt was looking really good other than that one spot. I don't know that I would abandon the VHT, it is good paint. Just maybe not try too much fancy stuff. Lay the paint as directed and maybe the warm oven for uniform heat.
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1968 Firebird 400HO convertible 1971 Trans Am 4-speed, white/blue |
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#16
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How are you removing the paint each time you do it over?? Are you sand blasting it or are you sanding it off,, or??? You have to make sure it is Perfectly clean when you apply the paint . What Are you using to clean it before you respray it. I would try putting it in your dishwasher that way it gets real clean & then wipe it down with some rubbing alcohol before you respray it so you know its clean. It looks like there was something under your paint.
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#17
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Rex has the key to this, The hub needs to be Clean ( I use DX330 wax and grease remover) and WARM, Warm is like 105 degrees. Also the Paint needs to be shaken WELL for 4 minutes and also WARM. This job is best done in warm/hot sunshine, but you may want a brooder lamp for indoor use if its below 75 out.
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" Long may we DRIVE !" |
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#18
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That was my 3rd attempt! Number 2 was too ugly to share.
The photo is deceptive. It looks like it pulled off a dirty part, but that is actually a shiny black layer of VHT that did not wrinkle. The hole is where a layer of paint wrinkled so hard it split and shrank away from the hole. It did this in about 5 spots. It appears to have separated between the coats. My guess is I am just putting it on too heavy, which causes it to really shrink up and build wrinkles that are deeper than I really want. In this 3rd trial, I probably put the last coat on too heavy and it pulled off the 1st or 2nd layer that had flashed. I don't think prep is the issue. I sand to bare metal with 220, finish with 400, washed in dish detergent, wiped with Summit paint prep, then again with alcohol before spraying. After looking online some more, even though the directions say to apply heavy, I think I am overdoing it. It levels so well you can get a lot on it without sags, which is what I did. I'm getting tired of this simple project turning into a career, but I'm not giving up... Yet |
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#19
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I use 2-3 light coats one after the other while they are hanging up on a old coat hangar. Good luck!
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" Long may we DRIVE !" |
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#20
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After you wipe it down with the prep spray do you touch it with the fingers. ?? If so the little bit of oils in your fingers will come off on your parts & cause what your describing. Once you wipe it down DON"T touch it with anything other then maybe the coat hanger your hanging it up with. Put a wire coat hanger on it before you hang it up & DON"T touch it. It sounds like your getting the finger prints on it as your describing . You don't want to touch it at all after you wipe it down. Try just spraying 1 med. coat & let it dry 1-2 hours before you put another coat on. Even though it says to spray it about 5-10 min's between coats ,, don't do it . Spray the 1 med. coat wait Then you'll see where it's not covering & then you can put another coat on ,,, again don't touch it. spray another med. coat. Let it dry ,,,, at least 8 hours. DON"T TOUCH IT..... Hang it where no one else can touch it either. It/'s best also to sand blast it each time so you get all the last coats off it. I don't know why it's not working for you as after a few disappointments when I tried the 1st few times the Plasti-Coat paint (wrinkle paint) has always worked for me. Also if you don't have any it's best to get some gloves like the rubber gloves in a doctors office so you don't end up touching the parts with your bare finger which WILL LEAVE oil's from them on your parts & cause the paint not to wrinkle to.
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