[NeighborsComplaint]

In the ongoing suspension and brake upgrade project from hell, here is the latest. Bought rebuilt calipers from Autozone, new caliper brackets and slotted/ ventilated rotors with ceramic pads (kit).

The outside pad rubs lightly on the step in the hub of the rotor. WTF?

I tossed the orig rotors so cannot verify the hub dia but pics of rotors from O'Reilly's website show the stepped hub also. The pads look corrct and fit the calipers also.

Any ideas? Assume rotors are suspect or caliper brackets incorrectly stamped placing the calipers too close to the spindle centerline? You know, it just kind of takes the fun out out of a project when you run into a problems with everything you buy.

[IMG][/IMG]

[NeighborsComplaint]

I contacted the supplier and read them the part number off the pads and they claim the pads are wrong. The part number they gave me was on the cello the pads were wrapped in. They are sending new pads but I know they will be the same as they are just Power Stop branded pads packaged with the rotors. There was no part number on the rotors to reference so who knows what I have.

Next step is to purchase a rotor and pads from O'reilly to see if they fit any different. It seems unlikely that I have wrong pads or wrong rotor since they fit like a glove. Here I thought I bought better quality pads and rotors for the front and I wind up with clearance issues that just shouldn't be happening.

The rubbing is very slight (just light scuffs on the paint I applied to the rotor hub). The shop says just grind some clearance on the pad backing plate flange where it rubs and be done with it.

Any ideas?

[Scarebird]

One of our applications has this issue occasionally. I would hit it with a belt sander or table sander and give it a gentle radius.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Thanks- Never had this issue w the orig rotors andcwasn't sure what the best solution would be. i'll clearance them and see what happens.

[rexs73gto]

If you have any access to a brake machine I'd just cut the hub down about 10-15ths. & that way your not damaging the pads or the backer at all. If it only hitting that little a brake machine I think would be your best bet.

[Txbobcat]

I had that happen on one pad on my chevy pick up. I couldn't even move the truck until I ground it down.

[Blued and Painted]

the pad should fit snug to the caliper. The tabs of the pad backing many times need tweaking/squeezing together so the pad fits securely on the caliper.

Dont see a problem with a little grinding on the pad backing.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Glad to hear I am not the only one that has had these types of issues-. i can't even remember the last time I did brakes as little as this car has been driven but the parts fit not like today's aftermarket stuff. I was glad the hear a little clearancing won't hurt and is a "normal" practice in these circumstances. i am going to grind the locating tabs first which should get me the clearance. I need. i will grind the radiused section on a grinding wheel if additional clearance is needed.

Thanks to all who replied!

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

If you have any access to a brake machine I'd just cut the hub down about 10-15ths. & that way your not damaging the pads or the backer at all. If it only hitting that little a brake machine I think would be your best bet.

Rex, you have had some "interesting" ideas, but this one is truly hare-brained. When you brake, that area you suggest lathing down is part of the load chain - thinning it down will weaken it, perhaps catastrophically.

No machine shop that knows what they are doing will do this task as you desire.

[rexs73gto]

I'm not saying to cut the rotor down a lot ,, like 30-40 ths. but just a bit maybe 5 ths to clear his pad issue. It would be about the same as grinding the pad tabs about the same amount. Plus cutting it down a little won't hurt anything. Most rotor on the market today don't have a step in the hub area. It's the same front to back. That area that is stepped is probably just a cost cutting/saving item any way . The less machine work done on any part saves money if you don't have to do an extra step. 1 lees step is possibly $ 1.00 less in cost. ??

[Scarebird]

Rex, have you ever actually cut a rotor?

They are not that thick where you propose this operation - we parted 100's of these to make hubs from them. Sectional thickness is usually 1/4 to 3/8" max, usually with significant core shift. And if you cut them without relieving them you set up stress risers - leading to cracks.

It is a really bad idea. And it is far easier, quicker, and cheaper to mod the pads with a tool most guys already have.

[rexs73gto]

No I haven't cut a rotor or refaced a rotor in probably about 25 years. I think the last one I ddi was I was still one the line at the caddy dealer back in 89. I didn't realize they had gotten so thin. With the use of front wheel drive & the rotors being almost so thin when there new we just use to install new ones & throw the junk ones away, or in the scrape bin. If that is the case then grinding the tabs on the pads would probably be the best idea. Plus most of the rotors on our cars the hub in real thick & much smaller in the hub area & I doubt if the pad would ever come close to the hub, so I would never have to do what the guy with the pad thats rubbing. I say I came off the line back in 89, I went to a desk as a service mgr. since then , well until I fell & crushed 3 vertebra in my back. Haven't worked since 2004 when I sold my last shop.

[cuz68]

Hum

[Blued and Painted]

The outer pad should fit snug. May have to lightly tap it home with a hammer.