[jamesdent87]

Engine is a Pontiac 400 with TH400 Automatic with guest dual gate shifter and 12 bolt posi. Engine is currently experiencing blow by and so I am in the process of finding an engine builder near me. I live in Lenexa KS. I want the engine to be reliable and to run on pump gas. Had the quadrajet rebuilt and has edelbrock performer intake and edelbrock performer Cam. A shop did some part swaps Summer of 2015 but stopped short. I will be looking to identify the heads but the engine and trans are numbers matching. Looking to have a pretty stock rebuild meaning I'm not looking for any HP goal or number. Considering the summit 2801 Cam. What recommendations does anyone have? Anyone know any builders in the Kansas City area near Lenexa KS? I have Rocky Rotellas book and have been reading through it. I also know Summit sells federal mogul kits for the 400. Just looking to get a fair deal this time and not allow a shop to select things. The last one over carbed the engine so I sold it and put the quadrajet back on. I greatly appreciate the help.

[jamesdent87]

I forgot. Car had hedman headers installed, HEI distributor.

[ponyakr]

I'd take it to Len Williams, in OK.

http://lenwilliamsautomachine.com/Home.html

My guess is that you have #13 heads, assuming it's numbers matching as you say. If so, you'll need some dish pistons to reduce compression. Icon makes a nice 14cc dish piston.

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/icon-...-150-bore.html

https://www.rpmmachine.com/shop/inde..._detail&p=6218

You can also buy custom Auto-Tec/Race-Tec pistons for about $500 or a little more. They can cut the dish as big as you need, to reduce your compression for pump gas. Some of these guys can order 'em for you. There is also an Ebay seller who can order 'em. There are other brands of customs. But the total shipped cost is between about $600 & $800.

http://butlerperformance.com/i-24453...tegory:1234850

Don't let any builder use ANY kind of cast pistons in your engine.

Another way to go is to use low compression heads, like the 6x-4, 5c-4, or Late '73 & '74 #46(with screw-in studs only). Then you can use flat top forged pistons. But, if you wanna use your numbers matching heads, that option is out. Only SAFE way to run 10:1 compression, is to mix in race gas, Torco Accelerator octane booster. or use E-85.

Don't know what your budget is. But forged rods are a good investment. The cheapest are the RPM 5140 rods, for $300. But, the RPM H-beams are much stronger, for $400. Can also run floating pins with the H-beams. Will probably cost over $200 for ARP rod bolts & rod resizing. And you still have OLD cast rods.

http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sa...tockrod-2.html

http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sa...elhbeam-2.html

And, I don't think that Summit 2801 cam is a bad choice for a mild street 400, tho I'm sure many will disagree, as usual.

Some have used the cheap Summit lifters, with no problems. Others say they are junk. Some say the Hylift Johnson lifters are best. Butler claims that their CCA-852B-16 lifters are Hylift Johnson. I think Paul K and others on this site sell the Hylift Johnson lifters. Also some recommend the Crower Cam Saver lifters, which splash extra oil on the cam lobes.

http://butlerperformance.com/i-24453...tegory:1234799

http://www.jegs.com/i/Crower/258/660...2lIaAsFC8P8HAQ

Don't make the mistake that many of us have made, and let a Chevy shop build your Pontiac engine. Guys with little to no experience building Pontiac engines, can really mess up a Pontiac engine build.

[jamesdent87]

I was told it's numbers matching. I knew very little about car verification when I bought it except for vin ID. It is a true GTO and I have PHS documents on the car. I've been trying to verify the heads but they are hard to read. Attached is a picture and there is definitely a 1 on the left.

[jamesdent87]

Thank you so much for all of the great information and help.

[ponyakr]

That 2nd number looks like rusted 3 to me.

Looks like a 1970 auto trans 350hp GTO engine would use a casting # 9799914 block, stamped with a YS code in front, below the end of the passenger side head. The casting number is cast into the block on a pad below the rear of the passenger side head.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/enginesearch4.htm

Also, if the block is original to the car, the last 6 digits of the Partial VIN, on the block, will match the last 6 digits of the vehicle VIN, on the dash.

[jamesdent87]

Thank you again for your assistance. I will look for the plate to verify against the vin. I do know it's a YS block because that was the first identifier I found. I greatly appreciate your help I will touch base with your recommendation. Also if you recommend a better Cam then I am open for suggestion. The three I read the most in forums was the 068 cam from meilling, Summit 2801, and comp cams. I'm not looking for crazy horsepower but reliability and so I will definitely follow your piston and rod recommendations.

[b-man]

Reliability and ease of installation would dictate the use of a factory performance cam in my opinion.

With the 068 cam (Melling SPC-7) you won't need anything other than a fresh set of valve springs. Use the quality USA made Hylift Johnson lifters with it. Melling was the OEM camshaft supplier to Pontiac back in the day.

A nice little bump in performance over the original 067 cam without affecting either driveability or reliability.

----------------------------------------------------------------

NOS 9779068 'S' camshaft and new Johnson Hylift hydraulic lifters. The '068' cam is best known as the 'Tri-Power cam' because it was used in most of the Tri-Power GTO engines. More info on the '068' cam here:http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=765522

[jamesdent87]

Thanks B-man. I've read several that recommend that Cam on other forums. I really appreciate the advice.

[jamesdent87]

Definitely YS coded stamped below the passenger side head. Was going to ID the serial number but hoses were in my way on top so I may try crawling under the car and looking up.

[Steve Shively]

Mann Speed in Independence MO knows our Poncho's well.