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Old 11-30-2016, 08:05 PM
hdpontiac hdpontiac is offline
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Default clutch countershaft

I would like to now if the chevelle one piece countershaft would work on a 69 gto so I can get rid of the swivel set up I believe the clutch rod hole is smaller so that would have to be resized but just checking to see if someone would now if the geometry would be correct thanks

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Old 11-30-2016, 11:32 PM
marxjunk marxjunk is offline
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no, but 67 GTO works..way back before they re popped the 68 up..when they wore out we just hunted up 64-67 and they work ...done it many times

as a matter of fact, i prob have a really decent used one id sell..i need to look a little, i thought i had a few

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Old 12-01-2016, 09:31 PM
hdpontiac hdpontiac is offline
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Originally Posted by marxjunk View Post
no, but 67 GTO works..way back before they re popped the 68 up..when they wore out we just hunted up 64-67 and they work ...done it many times

as a matter of fact, i prob have a really decent used one id sell..i need to look a little, i thought i had a few
that is great if you have some used one let me now but I was curious that you said 64 -67 because in the year one catalog they show 64-66 and the 67 by itself is that an error in the catalog thanks

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Old 12-01-2016, 09:45 PM
marxjunk marxjunk is offline
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67 is one year because it accommodates a spring theres a hole punched , the others dont have it

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Old 12-02-2016, 08:14 PM
hdpontiac hdpontiac is offline
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Originally Posted by marxjunk View Post
67 is one year because it accommodates a spring theres a hole punched , the others dont have it
so if that is the difference the 64-66 shaft would also work correct and let me know if you have a used one that you would like to sell thanks

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Old 12-04-2016, 07:53 PM
marxjunk marxjunk is offline
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you dont have to modify anything the 64-67 bolts right in, you need a ball stud for the block..theres several ball studs avail to dial it in a little better, but the stock 64-7 works fine..the top slid a little, but in hand they mirror each other


heres one of each a 68up and a 67...they are clocked the same, length and height is the same etc...

the 68 ups where junk from day one, they did well, but they are prone to wear, on the early you drill the holes out put bronze bushings in and they are done for life..and i have never seen an early one wear so bad it stops working..






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Old 12-05-2016, 08:58 PM
hdpontiac hdpontiac is offline
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Originally Posted by marxjunk View Post
you dont have to modify anything the 64-67 bolts right in, you need a ball stud for the block..theres several ball studs avail to dial it in a little better, but the stock 64-7 works fine..the top slid a little, but in hand they mirror each other


heres one of each a 68up and a 67...they are clocked the same, length and height is the same etc...

the 68 ups where junk from day one, they did well, but they are prone to wear, on the early you drill the holes out put bronze bushings in and they are done for life..and i have never seen an early one wear so bad it stops working..





thanks for the photos and I'm guessing when you say bronze bushing you are talking about where the linkage goes and please let me know if you have a 67 countershaft to sell thanks again

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Old 12-05-2016, 10:46 PM
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Ron Landis Ron Landis is offline
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Question Just curious...

how many miles are you guys driving a year to wear out clutch linkages?

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Old 12-06-2016, 10:14 PM
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how many miles are you guys driving a year to wear out clutch linkages?
I stripped a 68 lemans for parts with just over 100K on it. the Z bar was ok, but the hole in the clutch pedal for the rod was egged out pretty bad. It was pretty sloppy. most of its life was city driving. seldom on the hi-way.

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