[roy381]

Time to install the rear window in my 67 gto. Is this something better left to professionals or can it be done by the average do it yourselfer? Is butyl the way to go or use updated methods?

Thanks In advance

[Goatracer1]

I replaced the back window in my 1967 GTO a couple of times. It is one of the easier windows to change because it is flat. Just make sure you have everything you need before you start. Replace any of the molding clips that are damaged. Make sure you have the little rubber blocks that the bottom of the glass sits on. When I have changed that type of glass in the past I used Butyl tape. I don't know if there is anything better now. You can do it alone but someone to help is always nice. Good luck.

[Greg Reid]

Urethane is a lot better than the butyl tape but it is a LOT less user friendly. I've used butyl on quite a few back glasses and windshields over the years with no problems.
From what I gather, the advantage to urethane is that in a collision, it is unlikely to go flying out of the car. It is tough stuff once it dries.
A couple of tips if you do it yourself with either type of adhesive:

1.Place the glass where you want it (dry). When you get it centered both side to side and top to bottom, run a couple of strips of masking tape across the glass and onto the body/roof of the car. Cut the tape so that part of it remains on the glass and part on the car. When you get ready to set it in place with the adhesive, the tape will guide you. You'll need it because there won't be a lot of opportunity for adjusting it once it sets down on the sticky stuff.

2. To check for leaks after it sets, spray a foaming type cleanser around the perimeter of the glass. Use an air hose from inside the car. Hold it right up against the interior of the glass and go around the perimeter. If the air blows any foam away, you'll have a leak.

3. Do it on the warmest day that you can.

[roy381]

great advice thanks guys!

[eric65]

BTW these will help a lot

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-h...cup-40993.html

[Toms bird]

We would charge you $125 to $150 to to reset your glass at the shop to give you a idea of what it might cost.

[JohnS66GTO]

I've done it before myself with the butyl tape. Was relatively easy, and never had a leak or problem in the 15 years it was in.

Urethane is more modern, and more secure in an accident. My suggestion if you choose to have it done with urethane by a shop is to take a measurement from the glass outer surface to the top of of the molding clips before removing it. Tell the shop that's where you want it set. This assumes your molding fits properly to the window now.

The reason is because the glass shops apparently don't always know the correct depth to set the window, and if they put the urethane on too thick, your moldings won't go on. I had my '66 painted in the fall, and I just found out yesterday when I tried to install the moldings that they set the glass about 1/8" too high. My moldings will not reach the clips. So now I have to contact my painter and see if his glass guy will remove and reinstall the window in the correct position.

John

[pippintook]

Check out this thread

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ighlight=glass

I had front and rear glass replaced on my 78 TA. In the thread I posted pics of Urethane and other materials used.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by pippintook

Check out this thread

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ighlight=glass

I had front and rear glass replaced on my 78 TA. In the thread I posted pics of Urethane and other materials used.

Did you notice whether the glass installer heated the urethane product first?

I noticed that he used an electric caulking gun. The first thing I learned about urethane sealers is that they are very hard to flow using a regular caulking gun. In fact, I literally tore up two trying to get it out of the tube. Needless to say, my attempt at using urethane was not successful.
I gave in and had a pro do it. He did NOT use an electric gun but he had a dedicated heater made to hold two tubes of urethane adhesive. When it comes up to temperature, it flows easily with a regular caulking gun.
I suppose that using the electric gun, he did not have to heat the product first?

[pippintook]

Greg, no he did not heat the Urethane. I thought the weather was decent for Spring- maybe around 70 degrees? I did ask about the electric dewalt gun- thought he said something about a manual gun being a pain. Good thing, I did not try DIY - I would likely have tried to use a manual gun

[Greg Reid]

It was the prime of summer, 90+ degrees F which is about average for that time of year here. If I wanted to use urethane at this point, I would just call somebody over. It's worth it to pay somebody when you consider the hassle plus the cost of the urethane.
Now butyl tape on the other hand is a comparative breeze.

[70GS455]

There is some good info here too:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=378342

Apparently there are some potential legal ramifications for the type of prep work done in the window channel when one is refinished

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

[brad900]

I'm a MB tech who does glass all the time. We heat the urethane for a min. of 1hr per MB. You need to use a electric gun for 2 reasons, save your hands & most urethanes only have about a 10 min. window after air touches it. You need to clean & prime the pinchweld & glass. I would advise that you should let a pro do it. You will be in too much of a rush to set it that you might break the glass, scratch your paint or set the wrong depth

[Toms bird]

Brad I'm not sure you should tell people to heat a product if you don't know if they are a heatable product. Warming and heating are two different things. I've read all the post on the one thread listed 10 pages and it was pretty amusing some people were right, some people were close and some people were downright dangerous. The truth is some glass guys are good and some shouldn't touch a car ever. As far as butyl vs urethane I can only use urethane because of liability. When I started installing glass 33 years ago we only used butyl with maybe back filling with urethane. Was it good ? It was as good of technology as the lacquer paints that was used to repaint the cars over the brazed together repairs. Would I use it now no way just like I dont braze or use lacquer anymore.
I guess the question is what type of result are you after. Best materials best trained person who installs more glass in a day than most will do in a lifetime then call someone. I understand trying to do all you can on your car yourself I always do. I also understand reaching a little past what I know and am proficient in sometimes I win sometimes it bites me in the ass. If I can help with any questions or even get you the right materials at for cost let me know. I have to pull a windshield out of a members car tomorrow I'll see if we have any way to make a video of the removal and reinstall.

[brad900]

Tom I was just answering the question that other were asking. Mercedes requires the urethane to be heated in a urethane heater(it says heater on it). I did say that they should have a pro do it.

[Toms bird]

Brad didn't mean to come off prickish. Some urethane's Sika for example are heated products and some are not just wanted to make that clear. It's surprising how many glass installers for example mobile units that take vans home at night don't follow manufactures directions. It's cold up North right now. I'm sure every glass installer brings his primer and urethane in his house every night because it's not supposed to freeze. That guy in the you tube video from the link posted said the urethane he uses was primerless thats not true unless applied to a frit ban which none of our cars have typically. It's easy not to follow manufactures instruction. Thats why you have to get someone who's use to working on our type of cars. Heck my tools are older than alot of the guys doing this nowadays.