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#1
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Just wondering what you guys run for spark plug gap. I have champion RC12YC plugs.
Pontiac 455 10.1 compression Edelbrock D Port 84 CC RPM intake Old Faithful cam 950 HP Holley Carb HEI distributor 1 7/8 Dougs Headers |
#2
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I am using the NGK equivalent and run them at .035.
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#3
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.045 with an hei...
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1970 firebird, 468, e heads, |
#4
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X 2. HEI ignitions require a wider spark plug gap.
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“It takes considerable knowledge just to realize the extent of your own ignorance.” Dr. Thomas Sowell |
#5
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Soooo how much gap do you run rotor to plug terminals under dizzy cap????
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#6
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Maybe toss out the "require" and put in "allows". Spark produced with the old points ignition and standard coil had to have sparkplug gap limited to .035" to produce reliable results under all operating conditions. There just wasn't enough juice there to always fire off a wider gap. A longer, hotter spark works much better for igniting the fuel mixture, and this became available with the HEI and capacitive ignition systems. While you can gap your plugs with an HEI system at .035", you are not allowing the system to operate at its fullest efficiency (exceptions being ultra high compression or boost situations). While GM used gaps of .060" or larger some years, most of us have settled on a gap of .045" as a good compromise with HEI and CDI systems.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#7
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This is just my philosophy on the subject and not recommending anybody do what I do, but this has always worked for me...JMHO
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#8
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Correct me if my thinking is wrong, but it would seem with gaps of .035-.040, there would be a really good spark that is not so large that it erodes the plugs terminals at a ferocious rate.
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"No replacement for displacement!" GTOAA--https://www.gtoaa.org/ |
#9
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I saw a LOT of HEI's where they burned through the rotor to the top of the distributor shaft back in the days when they tried .060" plug gaps for a while. Not sure if that is why they went back to .045" gaps or not, but I run .035" here with my HEI, NGK V-Power 7 plugs in KRE aluminum "D" port heads. Never had any issues whatsoever and have used the same plugs now for many years.
FWIW I wouldn't run a Champion plug in anything......Cliff
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
#10
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I run .035 in everything, including LS coil per ignition systems, MSD CD systems etc...Big power adder cars tend to tighten it up a little more even. I also prefer a copper core plug, nothing fancy.
Smokey Yunick showed decades ago that all widening the gap does is make the system work harder, the coil specifically. I tend to follow that and have found no gain in drivability or track performance that tells me the wider gap is needed. |
#11
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It's a simple law of physics, the wider the gap the more difficult it is for the spark to find the ground on the other side of it. This raises resistance, and works the rest of the ignition system harder. Every spark created is trying to find the path of least resistance to ground, so if/when you make it more difficult clear out at the plug or end of the line, it will make attempts to jump a gap elsewhere.
I also played around with plug gaps quite a few years ago, and found NOTHING going from .035 to .045" that was measurable at the track. Even went on up to .060" and still no measurable improvement anyplace. I also absolutely HATE Champion spark plugs. Over the many decades of being in this hobby and in business with these things, we've had more trouble with Champion plugs than any other, and next to ZERO issues with NGK plugs. The plugs in my engine now have been in service now for the last two engines and every once in a while we hit them with the bead blaster, check the gaps and put them back in service, but that's at most about every 4-5 years or so. I suppose folks who run pig-ars rich gas sucking carburetors have to attend to plugs more often. Mine come out almost white to very light tan, and you'd swear it was WAY too lean if reading them.......FWIW.......Cliff
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
#12
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I'm not a fan of Champions either.
I've run NGK's and work great, father has them in his engine right now. I also like Autolites and run those in most of the cars. Great plug, and better than the ACdelcos they sell nowadays. Used to be an AC fan years back but when they played around with part numbers several years ago, and eliminated some of the plugs that I was using, I made a switch to Autolite and have used those quite a bit since with excellent results. |
#13
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I also absolutely HATE Champion spark plugs. Over the many decades of being in this hobby and in business with these things, we've had more trouble with Champion plugs than any other, and next to ZERO issues with NGK plugs. Cliff
I AGREE !!! And, the irony is I love AC Delco, and the same guy invented both. AC Delco and NGK for me depending on application.
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#14
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I run NGK in everything, period. I had a bad experience with Champion 30 some years ago,(ceramic broke apart as I was replacing them, 15,000 miles and completely worn) and even if they fixed the problem, I still won't buy them. NGK's gap checked out of the box, for the 455, all were .035, same for my Titan, Iridiums at .043. I've used NGK's at stock gaps in: 80 Toyota Pickup, 89 Mazda B2200, 93 Probe GT, 98 Contour v6, 06 Titan, and 66 Tempest (455 w/Edelbrock D-Ports 87cc and Pertronix II), and all my lawn mowers! All of them were replacements for the stock plugs when those became worn. The NGK's lasted more than twice as long as any other plugs with the exception of the Denso's that were in the Titan. IF I was in need of plugs and NGK was not available, Denso would be my second pick. Bosch=nope, AC Delco=no thanks, Champion=Sorry you screwed me once and once only. Some will swear by E3's, but I'm sure they are getting paid to say how great they are, but more surface area to get hot and cause pinging IMHO. If it looks like a gimmick or promises the world, it's crap.
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#15
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I run all American V8's between .035" and .040", Set as go-no go with a round gauge and only adjust the ground strap with a tool.
Every circle track motor we ever ran (25 years of racing) was on NGK plugs, and Autolites in my own V8 stuff. I don't run point ignitions in any of my cars and most have CD ignitions. |
#16
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I gap all the hi energy stuff at .045 ..
I dont use champion, motorcraft, split fire, e-3, or any other wiz-bang plug.
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Bull Nose Formula-461, 6x-4, Q-jet, HEI, TH400, 8.5 3.08, superslowjunk |
#17
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Anything over .035 negates the High energy. But that's just my opinion...
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
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