[charlie66]

Im not too sure where to post this but I thought id do it here in the street section..

I thought it would be nice if the guys that are looking to start porting there own heads could have a thread to refer to to help them get the right burs/sanding rolls and die grinders or anything that would be needed to get them going in the right direction with the right tools... What shapes for the right areas in the runner, bowl, short turn, and so on.. What's used to finish the plenum floor as well..

So can the guys that know, post pictures and places to get the stuff needed...

Thanks....

[chiphead]

I've been using the flame, tree, domed cylinder and round burr. 2" to 6" shanks are required to get into the runner. Goodson sells a burr that looks like an ice cream cone for working the short turn. I use an air die grinder but the 1/4" shank electrics are good if you don't have a decent compressor.

Find my 670 porting thread for some good info.

[charlie66]

Thanks ill check it out..

Do you have a picture of the flame? Id like to see what you're talking about. I've never seen one...

[Will]

Pretty much the only burrs I use are ovals and balls, 3/8" and 1/4". An inverted cone can be useful for getting to the short turn in the exhaust port.

Double cut tungsten carbide, American made are the only ones I use for iron heads and are widely available online and at welding supply and machine tool supply shops.

For aluminum you need single cut and use some kind of lube (marvel mystery oil works well).

[charlie66]

I like the sound of the inverted cone. Ill have see where I can get one..

[mgarblik]

The inverted cone is sometimes called an ice cream cone shape in the catalogs. If you want carbides that will really last and be a 1 time purchase, look at Buckeye Carbide, and Circo-File. Both American made and high quality. Circo-File has been around forever and can fix and sharpen almost any carbide. For aluminum, Pro-Blend chemicals has a porting lube that is just the greatest. You can take a completely clogged-up carbide and lube the port with a little of this and it will actually clean off the carbide like new. You can also run your abrasives wet with this stuff and keep the dust down and produce a nice finish. Not to hyjack the thread, but if anyone interested can wait a few weeks, I will have around 100-150 carbides for sale, cheap. Some new and some used. I have purchased the inventory from a porting operation that has gone out of business. It will take a couple weeks to inventory and see what I really have. Used carbides will be around $10.00 ea. and new around $15.00. Many are too large for Pontiac ports, that's why I need some time to sort out. All carbides are Circo-file. Also will have abrasives at 30-40% of the lowest prices you would be able to find anywhere. All abravives are American made Standard Abrasives. As far as carbide shapes for Pontiac ports, 1 tree, 1 flame, 1 egg, and 1 ice cream cone will get you started nicely. As I mentioned, I prefer an electric grinder. I like the instant torque, and they are much quieter. I use a router speed reducer, which you can buy on line or make with a reostat yourself. For iron, use double cut carbides as mentioned, wet or dry, then follow with mounted stones, then your cartridge rolls and finish with flap paper, wet. Really can't get the exhaust side too smooth. Intake side, I finish at 80 grit, 60 for low RPM street stuff. Aluminum, start with single cut carbides wet, then follow with sanding rolls wet, (no stones), then finish with flap paper wet. Same general finish recommendations. My porting education came from 2 Joe Mondello schools and time spent with Pete McCarthy many years ago. I am by no means an up-to date expert. But I can take a stock casting and improve it 30% with a few days of careful work.

PM if interested.

[charlie66]

You're not hijacking at all! This is the information it was started for...

What do you mean when you say wet grind ? How do you keep it wet while grinding with a bur?

Im interested in the burs and what ever other stuff you will have..

Maybe you can write your procedure of your start to finish step by step with where you start in the port and finish point as well as the different bur to stone to roll focuses...

Thanks

[Blued and Painted]

I purchase the sanding rolls, arbors, and a long pair shaped bur from Eastwood. Other grinding bits and tools were collected over the years.

http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=Head+porting

[beertracker]

Take a look here:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ight=head+port

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=796235

bt

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by Blued and Painted

I purchase the sanding rolls, arbors, and a long pair shaped bur from Eastwood. Other grinding bits and tools were collected over the years.

http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=Head+porting

Thank you

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by beertracker

Take a look here:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ight=head+port

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=796235

bt

Thanks

[mgarblik]

You can keep the port wet by putting your Marvel Mystery oil, or the Pro-Blend porting aid in a little squirt bottle or use a spill proof little container and an acid brush to just wet down the surfaces if the carbide begins to jump around or clog up. Cartridge rolls work better and last longer with this lube as well. I haven't actually tried Marvel Mystery oil for this but it works on all kinds of other projects. I will try to find my old class notes and put something together next week that makes some sense, hopefully. There is considerable porting information on this forum if you can search and find it. That

Don's forget your personal safety gear you need to wear for porting. Safety glasses even with side shields are not enough. You need a full face shield or tight fitting goggles. I have had iron particles removed from my eye even wearing safety glasses and it is painful. It rusts immediately and leaves scar tissue. Ear protection too, Foam inserts at a bare minimum. I wear gloves with the finger ends cut off also. You need a really good portable light and a head stand you can roll or rotate the head easily on. Finally, a paint respirator is best to keep the iron/aluminum and abrasives out of your lungs. Wear a good dust mask as an absolute minimum.

[Formulas]

I open this drawer in my tool box and get it done

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

You can keep the port wet by putting your Marvel Mystery oil, or the Pro-Blend porting aid in a little squirt bottle or use a spill proof little container and an acid brush to just wet down the surfaces if the carbide begins to jump around or clog up. Cartridge rolls work better and last longer with this lube as well. I haven't actually tried Marvel Mystery oil for this but it works on all kinds of other projects. I will try to find my old class notes and put something together next week that makes some sense, hopefully. There is considerable porting information on this forum if you can search and find it. That

Don's forget your personal safety gear you need to wear for porting. Safety glasses even with side shields are not enough. You need a full face shield or tight fitting goggles. I have had iron particles removed from my eye even wearing safety glasses and it is painful. It rusts immediately and leaves scar tissue. Ear protection too, Foam inserts at a bare minimum. I wear gloves with the finger ends cut off also. You need a really good portable light and a head stand you can roll or rotate the head easily on. Finally, a paint respirator is best to keep the iron/aluminum and abrasives out of your lungs. Wear a good dust mask as an absolute minimum.

Thank you . It will be interesting seeing how you go about it..

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by Formulas

I open this drawer in my tool box and get it done

I see that. lol Looks like a small fortune there..