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Old 06-04-2018, 03:36 PM
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Green Hornet Green Hornet is offline
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Default AC resurection

Working on a 77 TA......and the want to resurrect the original AC system...

The compressor was removed years ago...

I have most of the hard parts...to install....

What am I checking for on evap and condenser,,and compressor...,other than the obvious cosmetic issues....?

What's involved in upgrading to modern refrigerant?

Any tips are appreciated...

  #2  
Old 06-11-2018, 04:20 PM
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73ta 73ta is offline
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New compressor oil, new seals, new hoses and I reccoment a new style sanden compressor with a cycling pressure switch instead of the stock POA valve.

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Old 08-12-2018, 06:26 PM
allenga allenga is offline
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Did you get it working. I am doing this now. Every leak I plug, creates a new leak. I am on my last hose replacement and I might have A/C. Then I want to seal the duct work and by pass heater.

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Originally Posted by Green Hornet View Post
Working on a 77 TA......and the want to resurrect the original AC system...

The compressor was removed years ago...

I have most of the hard parts...to install....

What am I checking for on evap and condenser,,and compressor...,other than the obvious cosmetic issues....?

What's involved in upgrading to modern refrigerant?

Any tips are appreciated...

  #4  
Old 08-13-2018, 01:33 AM
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Green Hornet Green Hornet is offline
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I've back-burnered that project for a while.....doing some maintenance and upgrades on the drivers...

  #5  
Old 08-14-2018, 05:00 AM
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Squidward Squidward is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73ta View Post
New compressor oil, new seals, new hoses and I reccoment a new style sanden compressor with a cycling pressure switch instead of the stock POA valve.
Like 73ta said, start with flushing all components. Use green orings at every joint. R-134 is a smaller molecule, and you should get your hoses re-made with 134 compatible barrier hose. You can use the stock compressor, but how much seal life is left might be an unknown.

R12 systems used mineral oil, which is a no-no on 134. Use ester oil.

Get a new orifice tube for sure. It has a fine mesh screen that could be plugged. This will be at the evap inlet.

IIRC, 77's use a thermal cycling probe/switch to cycle the compressor based on evap temp. If this switch still works, then go ahead and use that. If not, then your best bet would be to use a cycling pressure switch calibrated for R-134. These screw onto the accumulator, and should be adjustable.

Most people would recommend some sort of hi and low pressure protection switches. The 77 had a switch in the high pressure line going into the evap. I can't remember if it was high or low pressure cutout.

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Old 08-14-2018, 09:11 AM
allenga allenga is offline
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thx!

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Old 08-15-2018, 07:58 AM
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Oh, yeah... new accumulator for sure.

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