[67 455 Bird ragtop]

I have access to both an engine and chassis dyno. Trying to decide which one to use to help setup my FITech Mean Street system. The engine dyno will ensure that the motor is tuned and will run once I install it in my car. The chassis dyno is cheaper and can give a more real world tune. Don't really want to spend the $$ on both.



Thoughts ??

[wreckmastr]

IMO use the chassis dyno. When its in the car you will be using the same ignition system, Fuel system and everything else that the car will live on. No sense in doing it on a engine dyno unless you will be taking your ENTIRE fuel system and and MSD with you. Things vary more than you think.

[tom s]

For a new start up a chassis for sure.I would not use FI on a new start up if a flat tappet cam.Just me.Tom

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Originally Posted by tom s

For a new start up a chassis for sure.I would not use FI on a new start up if a flat tappet cam.Just me.Tom

Care to elaborate ??

[Murf]

Originally Posted by 67 455 Bird ragtop

Care to elaborate ??

I assume he's concerned about having to fool with the FI when your main concern should be to keep from wiping out the cam. I would want a known good fuel system on for first start up. If the FI has been run on the car & sorted out, I think you'd be OK maybe.

Sent from my Z936L using Tapatalk

[Murf]

Originally Posted by Murf

I assume he's concerned about having to fool with the FI when your main concern should be to keep from wiping out the cam. I would want a known good fuel system on for first start up. If the FI has been run on the car & sorted out, I think you'd be OK maybe.

Sent from my Z936L using Tapatalk

ETA, I think I'd spend the extra money and do both. Break in on engine Dyno, make sure everything is OK. Then put the final tune on it after it's in the car.

Sent from my Z936L using Tapatalk

[76TA462]

Definitely the chassis tune will be the "real" world tune. Did both and the final dialing-in was the chassis. Doing both has added interest in that it sure sends home how much power is lost between the engine and rear tires.

[tom s]

As Murf said.When breaking in a FTC I ALWAYS use a know carb and dist EVEN if I have to pull them off one of my engines running in a car.You dont want to have a issue in getting the engine fired up to 2000RPMs right now and be able to hold it.JMO,Tom

[JLMounce]

I used to agree with tom on the startup, but having two FiTech's in service now, I wouldn't hesitate to break in a HFT cam with one of them. That would be so long as you're not making any compromises on the fuel system and you're not cutting corners on install.

With the install done correctly, and an adequate fuel system installed, those things will typically light off faster than even a primed carb will and they have no trouble getting you to 2000 rpm or above and maintaining it for 20+ minutes right off the bat.

If you have any doubts about the install, or your trying to use one with a remote reservoir of in-line fuel pump deal, I'd use a carb.

As far as tuning goes, use the chassis dyno once you've got the FiTech installed. But do it after you've installed the unit and let it do some learning. Let it idle for about 10-15 minutes (from cold if possible), then take it for a drive of around 30 miles or so. Start easy and gradually add load and throttle over that 30 mile period.

The system will be able to achieve your commanded inputs to about 90% at that point. Then, schedule your dyno time. You'll typically be tuning for optimum WOT operation, but you can do some road type tuning as well on the chassis dyno.

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Thanks for all the feedback. Very much appreciated. My fuel system is an in tank fuel pump setup. It is new and will be properly plumbed. I'm still kicking around my options. I'm still leaning towards doing the engine dyno first. Then after a while putting it on a chassis dyno.