[64speed]

Do they make a full synthetic 20w50 or is it all semi synthetic? If so where are you buying it?

[Steve C.]

https://penngrade.com/shop/motor-oil...c-blend-5w-30/

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[grivera]

The Penn Grade Select is full synthetic. As far as grades available, the best source is Penn Grade Customer Service.

[Steve C.]

https://penngrade.com/wp-content/upl...-369x565-1.png


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[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Brad Penn oul

I believe the correct pronunciation is "awl".

At least that's how my dad always said it. That, and "tars" (the round things that touch the ground).

K

[1968GTO421]

64,
There is a Bran Penn dealer near you. You might want to check with them on it.

ACTION AUTOMOTIVE
2250A Sandifer Blvd
Westminster, SC 29693

PHONE: (864) 886-9001

Hope this helps.

[gtofreek]

Why would you run full synthetic oil? No need for it. Penn Grade one is great oil. Synthetics are more likely to leak and get past the rings and burn if the engine is not built for them.

[Tomslemans67]

Is there even a need to run that type of oil if using a roller cam ?

[64speed]

I was asking for my Yukon. Action Automotive is a misnomer. I called them and they use it in their service but they wont sell it to the customer

[gassman_67]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

I believe the correct pronunciation is "awl".

At least that's how my dad always said it. That, and "tars" (the round things that touch the ground).

K

But could be "earl", depends on the dialect.

[Steve C.]

If you insist on it.....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bpo-009-7119


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[The Champ]

Originally Posted by 64speed

I was asking for my Yukon.

Why would you run 20W50 in your Yukon?

[Tomslemans67]

Am I correct in saying you shouldn't run that type of oil in a newer vehicle with a catalyst converter

[Chief of the 60's]

Brad Penn is a damn good oil but if you are looking for a full synthetic just go to WalMart and buy Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is easy to get and WalMart has it cheap. Its what I run in one of my race cars.

[PDC]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

Why would you run full synthetic oil? No need for it. Penn Grade one is great oil. Synthetics are more likely to leak and get past the rings and burn if the engine is not built for them.

Hey Paul - what are your thoughts on Gibbs Driven Hot Rod Oil? They offer a full synthetic 15/50 that is ‘alleged’ to have the same cold flow characteristics as a ‘conventional’ 10w, but holds viscosity at higher temps. Same concerns regarding leaks and getting past the rings as with other synthetics?

Thank you.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by PDC

Hey Paul - what are your thoughts on Gibbs Driven Hot Rod Oil? They offer a full synthetic 15/50 that is ‘alleged’ to have the same cold flow characteristics as a ‘conventional’ 10w, but holds viscosity at higher temps. Same concerns regarding leaks and getting past the rings as with other synthetics?

Thank you.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/h...c-10w-353html/

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by PDC

Hey Paul - what are your thoughts on Gibbs Driven Hot Rod Oil? They offer a full synthetic 15/50 that is ‘alleged’ to have the same cold flow characteristics as a ‘conventional’ 10w, but holds viscosity at higher temps. Same concerns regarding leaks and getting past the rings as with other synthetics?

Thank you.

I hear Gibbs driven racing oil is good, but I have never used it. Personally, I don't like full synthetic oil. The only real advantage to it that I see it it lasts longer before breaking down, but it still collects dirt just the same. It still needs to be changed regularly like conventional oil does. 10,000 miles on an oil change is ridiculous to even consider so I see no real advantage over regular oil. We have used Kendall GT[way back before it was Brad Penn] and Brad Penn ever since. When we tear down an engine that has run all season long in several races, some lasting hundreds of miles, and the engine is run at 8000-9000 RPM's the whole time and the bearings still look brand new, what are you going to gain with full synthetic. I see it cause more problems with leaks and oil burning in engines not designed for it, so I won't ever use it. We even had a guy come by with an old V-6 engine that we built for another shop, and he switched to synthetic after 900 miles and came complaining about the oil leaks that started. We told him the engine isn't designed for synthetic and to go back to Brad Penn, so he did and his leaks stopped completely. Newer engine that come from the factory with synthetic oil have a Napier second ring and special seals designed for it. My Monte Carlo engine has over 320,000 miles on conventional oil and when I rebuilt the heads at 292,000 miles[because the head gasket blew] the heads were in such good shape that the guides had no measurable wear, nor did the valves so I reused them. Even the valve springs still tested good, although I still replaced them just because. The cylinders had no ring ridge what-so-ever. How much better would synthetic oil make that?

[64speed]

Just reread the post title and saw what y’all were talking about about oul. What’s worse than autocorrect is when it doesn’t work and it lets fat fingers push the letter beside the intended one.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

Brad Penn is a damn good oil but if you are looking for a full synthetic just go to WalMart and buy Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is easy to get and WalMart has it cheap. Its what I run in one of my race cars.

The Wal Mart brand synthetic has the same rating. Bet it comes from the same place. I run it in my Tundra. No leaks but it is a very modern engine.
I ran synthetic gear oil and it leaked. Went to regular 85-90 and it stopped leaking.
I have ran Dello 400 15-40 in my 455 the last few years. Guy gave me 10 gallons.
I hear it does not have the anti foam stuff for high RPMs but I do not let it rev past 6500 anyway. Great oil pressure. Still 52 lbs hot after very many passes.

[64speed]

It’s an LS so it’s made for synthetics. I have heard how great brad penn is so I thought I would give it a try. I have been running synthetics for over 355000 miles now with no leaks but I figure it’s getting some miles on it and may try a thicker oil. I haven’t lost but about 3/5 pound of oil pressure over cruise speed in the last five years so I guess I’ll just stick with what works