[66sprint6]

I've been researching the camshaft removal tools that thread into the nose of the camshaft to help with installation. They're not that expensive, but the shipping is a killer. I'm thinking that I can get a long bolt or threaded rod to do the job for way cheaper. I just need to know the size and thread pitch of the receiving end of the cam. Anyone?

[chuckies76ta]

1/2"-20 Fine thread. https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/190-1001/10002/-1

[25stevem]

The cheapest and many times best Cam install or removal tool is a another person to support the end of it.

First remove the gear, then remove the thrust plate and then put the gear back on with the bolt only finger tight.

Having the gear on the nose gives you at least 60 to 70% more control!

[Stuart]

Check the hold down bolt for your spare tire in the trunk, it may be the right size.

[25stevem]

Nah, if anything that’s 3/8”, 1/2” is like a head or main cap bolt.

[rontiac]

Another choice would be a rear shock bolt...........

[Scarebird]

no, it is 1/2-20 as stated. I have a bolt that size welded to a 2 foot stick of tubing.

Other end is 14mm-1.5 for LT cams.

[flat-bill]

Whenever I assemble an engine I start with the cam. I stand the block up on end and feed the cam in straight down. Easy Peasy. I find it better to get the cam in and turning free before I load the crank, etc, in the block. Billk

[Scarebird]

Yes. And if there are issues with the cam tunnel best to find out before the crank and friends are installed.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by 66sprint6

I've been researching the camshaft removal tools that thread into the nose of the camshaft to help with installation. They're not that expensive, but the shipping is a killer. I'm thinking that I can get a long bolt or threaded rod to do the job for way cheaper. I just need to know the size and thread pitch of the receiving end of the cam. Anyone?

You working on your "purchased" engine???

Have any good fortune with exhaust manifolds, yet?

[Drag Star Le Mans]

Originally Posted by flat-bill

Whenever I assemble an engine I start with the cam. I stand the block up on end and feed the cam in straight down. Easy Peasy. I find it better to get the cam in and turning free before I load the crank, etc, in the block. Billk

I put cam in first. Block on stand upside down guide the cam in is the way my uncle taught me.

[66sprint6]

Originally Posted by 77 TRASHCAN

You working on your "purchased" engine???

Have any good fortune with exhaust manifolds, yet?

I did pick up some RAIV manifolds locally for the Round Port motor.. Not cheap the guy knew what he had. We'll have to see if we can make them work in a '67. I'm in no rush. Frankly, I've been eyeing a few '68's and '69's lately that need some love and an engine.

But this cam is for the 400 that's in the LeMans currently. It's a '74 400 and wooo it's a dog. It's got great even compression across the cylinders and seems solid but it's got no power. So I'm getting this Summit 2800 camshaft. Very tame with the 204/214@ .050, 112 LS. But an improvement I hope and I need the vacuum to run Power brakes, A/C and Cruise.

[will slow gto]

Originally Posted by Drag Star Le Mans

I put cam in first. Block on stand upside down guide the cam in is the way my uncle taught me.

Upside down or on its end? I don’t see how upside down is any different than right side up.

[25stevem]

In other words up side down in the engine stand with the open crank case facing up/ you and the crank out.
If your putting the cam in on your own you have much more control.

[will slow gto]

Ok, that make sense with the crank out and upside down you don’t have to deal with the lifter bores.

[Cliff R]

The cam is the FIRST part installed during the engine build. Crank is next, then the timing set and #1 rod/piston to check the ICL or intake open point @ .050". Hell of a lot easier to turn the engine and make adjustments only dragging one piston and rod around in there.

Plus with the cam in first nothing is in the way from the underside so you can help it onto the next journal if/as needed.....and NOTHING sucks worse than getting the spinning assembly in place, installing the cam, then finding out you have a cam bearing alignment issue and it has to come back out, the spinning assembly back out, and cam bearings attended to or replaced..........FWIW......

[66sprint6]

What about switching the cam out on an existing engine?

[77 TRASHCAN]

What heads are on the 400?
Seemed like you heard the round port engine run?
If Im remembering... that round port engine has a fairly radical cam in it. I’m guessing your 400 is a low compression engine....a hot cam in a low compression engine is a recipe for disaster....

[Half-Inch Stud]

Yea, so i was wondering why degreeing thecam was tought this go-around: all 8 slugs dragging the torque up. Shoulda cammed and just done CYL 1.