[Shiny]

How do you strip paint from areas like this that can't be reached easily?

I don't have a sand blaster and think it would be a real pain to try and get into these areas with wire brushes.

Is there a small vibratory detail sander or small diameter pad/scotchbrite disc sander that makes this easier?

Or should I just scuff it by hand with a scotchbrite and not bother stripping?





Mike

[BB70]

I would get a bucket siphon type sandblaster and a nice hood from tractor supply. The aggravating cleaning like this will go quick and keep you happy with the result.

John

[Shiny]

Thanks John,

I actually have such a blaster, but no place to use one outdoors now, nor space for a cabinet. I agree it makes it easy, just no longer an option for me.

[BB70]

I understand, well plan b, a 90* and straight die grinder with those scotchbrite wheels and some 180 sandpaper. Wire wheels remove stuff but dont leave the scratch texture for primer very good.

[Shiny]

I will pull out the die grinder and rolock wheels. I'm sure that will help. I may still have some small bristle discs.

I was wondering if a vibratory detail sander or maybe an oscillating tool had stripping media that work in corners? I don't own either tool but would consider buying if I thought they would add any value.

Something like this maybe, but with a chance of actually doing some work:



Maybe a flex pad and some triangular sandpaper on a vibratory detail sander would be worth buying?

[400 4spd.]

Air powered belt sanders are real useful in tight spots. You'll want the type that uses 3/8" wide belts. There are a variety of grits available. I would not go coarser than 80 grit.

[Shiny]

Thanks, never thought of that!

I spent an hour with a green bristle disc. It did well but my cheap grinder couldn't keep the rpm up. Or more likely, my compressor can't keep up with the grinder. Tedious job fir sure.

[Shiny]

I like the 2" 3M bristle discs and conditioning discs so decided to get a 1-inch version and invest in a long-nose die grinder to reach into the recessed corners.

Anyone know where I can buy singles without getting nailed on shipping:



My compressor is not up to much so I'm planning on a corded electric grinder to drive it, probably DeWalt.

I also want to get a better right-angle air-powered die grinder, hoping to out-perform my old Harbor Freight POS at the low cfm I have. I use these things about once a year so don't need nor want bulletproof tools. DeWalt has one they claim will run with as low as 3 cfm. Anyone use this or have another low-cost option that runs on low cfm?

[Goatboyjohnny]

The belt sander has become my Frank's hot sauce of my toolbox, I use that $#!% on EVERYTHING!!! They make scotchbrite belts too.

[Shiny]

Thanks for the second nod on the sander. Scotchbrite belts!

Sounds like a useful tool. Looking at low-cost options, is the Eastwood too cheap? There is an Astro-Pneumatic that looks like better quality at a mostly budget price.

[Goatboyjohnny]

I have an Astro, and a couple from harbor frieght that are all the exact same tool,just labeled and colored differently.

[RocktimusPryme]

It doesnt sound like you are anyway, but be careful if you opt for a wire wheel. You can work harden the sheet metal and crack it. I thought it was BS when someone told me that, but I found out the hard way on a WWII jeep was stripping 68 layers of paint off of.

[Shiny]

That's good to know, thank you!

And no, I'm not going that direction for now... sticking with sandpaper, bristle discs, and the small conditioning discs. I ordered a 3/8" air sander and Scotchbrite belt plus a corded straight angle grinder and 1" bristle disc. I suspect the two of these will either get it done or keep me entertained for a few hours. Both are useful outcomes.

[mrennie]

Bristle disc's work well, but even the coarse green ones may leave a surface that is too smooth for best primer adhesion (I learned the hard way )

Once cleaned up, hand sand with fresh 40-80 grit paper so there are some scratches for primer to grab onto.

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by mrennie

Bristle disc's work well, but even the coarse green ones may leave a surface that is too smooth for best primer adhesion (I learned the hard way )

Once cleaned up, hand sand with fresh 40-80 grit paper so there are some scratches for primer to grab onto.

Absolutely! I think it actually leaves a residue of the plastic that inhibits primer adhesion. I've seen the same with the 3M (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...-and-finishing) Clean and Strip discs.
We always DA the panel with 80 grit after using those products.

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by Goatboyjohnny

The belt sander has become my Frank's hot sauce of my toolbox, I use that $#!% on EVERYTHING!!! They make scotchbrite belts too.

Originally Posted by Goatboyjohnny

I have an Astro, and a couple from harbor frieght that are all the exact same tool,just labeled and colored differently.

Thanks for the tip on the belt sander and scotchbrite belts. I ordered an Astro 3/8" belt sander and their composite right-angle grinder. Both are great so far. The scotchbrite belt is awesome. It holds up great and the tool is both light and easy to use... no jumping around, easy to control! With sandpaper, I imagine it will be a great tool for grinding welds or breaking edges.

I struck out on the 1" bristle disc so will just have to hand scuff where I still can't reach. But there isn't any rust and the black factory primer and paint are still stuck well so I'm not worried about adhesion in areas I won't ever see.

As to the visible areas, I plan to prime with Spraymax aerosol 2K epoxy. Their TDS just says "sand" with no recommended grit size. I'm planning on sticking with 80 grit, which looks like it should give a lot of bite.

[Cammer-6]

SPI recommends 80 grit for their epoxy primer,which is the ONLY one to use anyway.
The multi tool with triangular shaped 80 grit works great.

[Cammer-6]

duplicate..... for unknown reason

[Cammer-6]

Actually theres a reason for through sanding as moisture will creep

Originally Posted by Shiny

Thanks for the tip on the belt sander and scotchbrite belts. I ordered an Astro 3/8" belt sander and their composite right-angle grinder. Both are great so far. The scotchbrite belt is awesome. It holds up great and the tool is both light and easy to use... no jumping around, easy to control! With sandpaper, I imagine it will be a great tool for grinding welds or breaking edges.

I struck out on the 1" bristle disc so will just have to hand scuff where I still can't reach. I won't evBut there isn't any rust and the black factory primer and paint are still stuck well so I'm not worried about adhesion in areas er see.

As to the visible areas, I plan to prime with Spraymax aerosol 2K epoxy. Their TDS just says "sand" with no recommended grit size. I'm planning on sticking with 80 grit, which looks like it should give a lot of bite.

[Shiny]

Are you saying any and all factory primer and paint need to be removed?

If the factory system hasn't lost adhesion nor allowed the underlying metal to rust in 55 years, why would it fail with a layer of epoxy primer on top of it? If you can't spray onto existing paint, every repair would require completely stripping the entire car. I'm not worried about it for my beater.

There's no problem stripping to metal on the visible panel surface, but I still can't completely reach into some of the corners inside the turn signal recesses and I'm about finished trying.