[East]

When ordering a throttle cable, is there a specific condition to follow so that the cable end will be able to attach to the carb linkage correctly?

I just installed a new throttle cable bracket that replaces the one I had that was for an A body. I had cut off the part of it that fits to one of the manifold bolts, and I hogged out the hole that bolts to the top of the manifold.

Now that I have the correct bracket, the throttle cable appears to have extra length which may not allow the throttle to be fully opened.

I have found that Ames has a 2 BBL cable at 19" and one for 4 BBL at 19 5/8 inches. This adds to my confusion being that I have a 4BBL.

[JLMounce]

This apparently was common on Firebirds. The engines were "detuned" slightly by having a throttle cable that did not allow full wide open throttle operation. You'll likely need an adjustable throttle cable like a Lokar unit to cure this.

[north]

The repro cables are awful, they give the throttle a corse rough feel.

[East]

I keep trying to correct my past mistakes by replacing incorrect parts with the correct parts.
The more I try to make it right, the more it causes things to be wrong.

I will go through my bin of parts that I removed to find out if I happen to have a throttle cable that may be the correct one.

Thanks for the replies and insight.

[north]

I had a repro cable on a 69 LeMans 350 HO (same cable as a GTO). Always had a notch, rough throttle tip in, sticky spots in the pedal travel.

I ripped apart the carb three times, gasket matched the gaskets on the carb ant the carb to intake gasket, lubed and cleaned the linkage around the gas pedal and the cable repeatedly. Nothing worked. On a whim I bought a correct used cable on eBay for like $20, problem solved instantly.

The repo cables have a course rough cable inside that scrapes and catches because of the burrs and rough surface. The factory unit had a silky smooth cable.

[East]

This will probably be a hit and miss not being able to determine if the cable is actually a factory original.

Thanks for the heads up.

[rohrt]

I fought this stuff years ago with my 68 FB. This is what I recall.
The F4 bracket I got from The Parts Place didn't match an original one I had. Not sure if they changed between years or if they made a F4 for both A and F body. The parts place one needed a bolt with a small stud on top. The original one I had didn't. All else looked fine.
Finding a good 4lbb cable was really tough.
When i tested the carb opening it was not opening fully. I had to remove the pedal assembly and do some bending. That was not fun with the motor in.

[East]

The second picture in the first post is the one that you are talking about with the upper bolt and the lower manifold bolt.

The first picture is the one I just took off my car with the lower bolt hacked off.

I had taken a 400 engine out of a 68 or 69 GTO. The engine was a 1973 400.

That's how I ended up with the wrong pulleys and brackets.

I just fixed my pulley alignment issue. Thank God I saved the other (my original 350 ) balancer with pulleys. I didn't use it because I dropped it and made it wobbly.

Anyway, I will have to work out the cable length issue. I was by myself so I didn't press the gas pedal to the floor to see what I have at the carb. linkage.

Thank you all.

[north]

Hey East, do you think we have members with the handle West or South?

Yours truly,
North

[East]

I did not find users with those names here.

My excuse was how I named computers in my house long time ago.

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by north

Hey East, do you think we have members with the handle West or South?

Yours truly,
North

No pure West or South. But there is a West Coast GTO.