[drewm]

This is a new build, 455 .030, ran fine at engine builders on run stand, although he was using an electric fuel pump of unknown psi and I dont know how long he ran it.

Here is the short version of the issue:

Tripower rebuilt by me with rebuild kit from Mike Wasson, Daytona needle and seat. Started the motor for the first time at home, ran fine for a few seconds (probably on gas still in the bowls from builder). I am running off the fuel tank and using a carter 6907 mechanical pump. Engine stalled out, cranked a few times and no start. Noticed fuel around the center carb base or that general area. Pulled a few plugs and they are soaked. Standing gas in #1 cylinder. Blew out the cylinders and dried the plugs. Pulled the airhorns and made sure floats were good and adjusted properly. Needle and seat seem good, on center carb I turned over the airhorn and blew on the fuel inlet and no air escapes, so needle is seating fine. I drained the oil for fear of gas contamination. I installed a Holley 12-804 fuel pressure regulator and a Mr. Gasket fuel gauge. Went to restart, ran for a few seconds, stalled and same issue, soaked plugs, particularly #1. I did not have any fuel spilling around the center carb, so maybe the lower pressure has helped there. I dont completely trust the pressure regulator or gauge, as the pulsing of the pump makes it difficult to read, but it doesn't seem to be pulsing over 4 psi. My next step is running fuel to only the center carb and see if it runs OK on just the center carb.

Anyone have any other ideas?

[performerrpm]

i had a cracked float where it solders to the arm. it woukd cause it not come uo and fully close the needle...by the time i woukd get it apart it woukd be empty. finally after a few tries i juat happen to push the float right and seen the crack open up. it wouod flood out the vent and down the carb

[steve25]

Ditto!

[Kenth]

I would NOT trust the Daytona style inlet valves, i have lost track of how many carburetor these are nothing but flooding troubles regardless of fuel pressure.

For Tri-Powers i use only factory style and sized inlet valves, for 66 center .120", for 65 and older center carb .101". ALL end carbs .086". Never had a problem with factory style/sized inlet valves up to 6.5 psi.

FWIW

[carbking]

The "Daytona style" valves were designed decades ago by Parker Brothers, out of Tulsa.

We had good results with the valves when we got them from Parker Brothers, but we bought enough that Paul Parker would custom make them to our specs, which agree with the orifice sizes Kenth lists in the post above this one.

After Paul decided fishing was more important than manufacturing, we acquired the original style valves in the correct orifice sizes. I have no experience with the other valves since Paul retired.

Always test the brass floats in hot water. If there is a leak, the hot water will find it. NEVER buy the current production new brass floats.

Jon

[drewm]

Originally Posted by carbking

The "Daytona style" valves were designed decades ago by Parker Brothers, out of Tulsa.

We had good results with the valves when we got them from Parker Brothers, but we bought enough that Paul Parker would custom make them to our specs, which agree with the orifice sizes Kenth lists in the post above this one.

After Paul decided fishing was more important than manufacturing, we acquired the original style valves in the correct orifice sizes. I have no experience with the other valves since Paul retired.

Always test the brass floats in hot water. If there is a leak, the hot water will find it. NEVER buy the current production new brass floats.

Jon

So even the Daytona valves supplied by Mike may be troublesome? I have no problem going back to original style valves, I just figured that someone built a better mousetrap.

The floats are originals, but I plan on pulling them soon and I will try the hot water trick. I can tell you that none of them seemed to have any fuel in them after I pulled the carbs apart this weekend. But I'll check anyway.

[steve25]

I do use new brass floats but I always resolder them myself just to be certain, but then again I have a resistance type soldering iron which makes the job easy and I use a silver based solder along with a brush on flux.


I guess if you preheat the float a bit you could solder it with a 40 watt iron for electronics use.

[carbking]

Steve - re-soldering will solve the issue with the new floats. Unfortunately, not everyone has your ability with a soldering iron.

I can, but too lazy to do so when we still have thousands of used 2GC carbs, most of which have good original floats.

Jon

[carbking]

Drew - I have not used the Daytona valves from Daytona. There is no need for me to do so, as I now have the original style in all sizes. So I do not know if they are troublesome; I will bow to Kenth's experience here.

We had good results with the valves when Parker Brothers was still making them; but as stated earlier, I bought enough from them that Paul would make them to my specifications as far as orifice size.

You might measure the orifice size in yours.

Originals:

Ends - 0.086
Center 1957~1965 - 0.101
Center 1966 - ours are 0.118, Kenth posted 0.120

Jon

[drewm]

So i dunked the center carb float in very hot water, and there were bubbles coming from the float. See attached pic where circles in black sharpie. The crack is very small, and above the fuel level. Would this still affect the function of the float?

[performerrpm]

thats your culprit...you could always jb quick it just to see if it fixes it while u order another...thats what i did

[steve25]

Actually soldering them with a resistance iron is far easier then using a regular big iron.

I just happen to have one for other hobby uses, on brass trains. but it’s not a cheap tool .

[jww]

Ok, so I give up,……….
I have a large soldering iron, plug it in and it takes 10 minutes to heat up, a 150watt monster. ! 3/4” copper business end

Also have a 100/140 watt Weller pistol grip soldering “gun”.

I assume #2, the Weller, is a “resistance “ soldering tool?

Just trying to learn something here regarding terminology:
Thanks, Jerry

[carbking]

I use a copper "iron", heated with a torch. Old, old school !

For just repairing holes, if you cannot hold the float in your fingers while soldering, you are not using enough heat !

Jon

[steve25]

Yes your Weller is a resistance type iron but not like one used for soldering small detail parts onto brass models.

[jww]

Thank, Steve…..,,
Yes, I’ve seen those as you showed in your example. Seen them on ebay……… really don’t know what that type of soldering iron does differently from my antique Drake or my little Weller.

No big deal………….everyone have a great Thanksgiving!!

[Joe]

Been following this thread. Where does one source the correct float valves for a 66 Tri power? I also got the Daytona's in the kits I purchased but want to go with the original style.
Any help would be appreciated.
Joe

[carbking]

Joe - we place them in the kits we sell; we do not sell fuel valves ala carte.

Jon

[Joe]

I just got a response from tripower.com and they said all conventional needle/seat orifices are .096 front/center/rear for a 66.
Am I missing something.
thanks

[Kenth]

https://tripower.com/

I doubt they even know anything about Pontiac Tri-powers?