[KGTO]

I'm looking to order a Stefs pan for better sealing and the incorporated windage tray. This is going in a 67 GTO, stock cross member and solid mounts.

Would someone chime in and let me know if I need to worry about any interference with the steering linkage, that would be great.

Im thinking the 1095 pan or the possibly the 1730.

Thanks

[Dragncar]

I have their race kickout- trap door pan in a 69 A body. The only thing I had to do was put a little dent in the middle crossmember where the metal around one of the plugs just kissed the frame. To reach up to tighten a pan bolt you need a long 1/4" drive extension and all socket to get it done.
Nice pan, no leaks.

[PAUL K]

I'm an F-body guy and they're pans hit the steering everytime we've tried to use them. This hasn't bothered them in the last twenty years and still sell the pan as a bolt in. I know the 66-67 A-body is tight in that area. Plenty of options out there for windage trays and scrapers that will work with pans that have more clearance in the steering area.

[KGTO]

Thanks guys... I ran a scraper and tray with a kick out pan, just didn't want to deal with all that any more and the build of the car is higher end, so I am a bit more focused on no leaks while incorporating the windage features.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

I'm an F-body guy and they're pans hit the steering everytime we've tried to use them. This hasn't bothered them in the last twenty years and still sell the pan as a bolt in. I know the 66-67 A-body is tight in that area. Plenty of options out there for windage trays and scrapers that will work with pans that have more clearance in the steering area.

They changed their A body pan for me at no cost. The billet main cap hit my Canton pan. So I sent them a cutout of my front cap, now all of their A body pans have room there as a result.
I bet they might change the pan for F bodies if you gave them the info they got the info from you ?

[Skip Fix]

I have a Canton A body road race pan but lengthened sump(second gen F body length) on my IA in the Camaro and it didn't hit the cap.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

They changed their A body pan for me at no cost. The billet main cap hit my Canton pan. So I sent them a cutout of my front cap, now all of their A body pans have room there as a result.
I bet they might change the pan for F bodies if you gave them the info they got the info from you ?

Tried that in the past and they didn't care to fix or correct the issue. We offer a better pan anyways and so does another Pontiac vendor. Canton and Milodon have nice offerings also. Little point to screw around with a company that didn't care, when times were good for them, but now they might being they have more competition.

[KGTO]

Stan at Stefs gave me the measurement for the front of 4.5" from pan rail to the bottom of the pan. My steering linkage was rubbing a little with my Milodon pan. I measured it and its 4.75" so im hoping for no issues.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

Tried that in the past and they didn't care to fix or correct the issue. We offer a better pan anyways and so does another Pontiac vendor. Canton and Milodon have nice offerings also. Little point to screw around with a company that didn't care, when times were good for them, but now they might being they have more competition.

Is it nicer than this pan ? Does it have the kickout, trap doors and windage tray ?
I do not know of a Milodon kickout pan. And when I tried to get Canton to make me a Maxi kickout pan they would not make me one. Did not know it the guy who makes them was coming back to work and if he did they wanted mutilple (10) pan ordered.
Some of the biggest jerks I have ever dealt with for performance stuff in my life.
Steffs went out of their way to help me.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Is it nicer than this pan ? Does it have the kickout, trap doors and windage tray ?

Yes and the part circled in red doesn't interfere with the center link.

[Elarson]

FWIW, I used the Canton road race T-pan on my AllPontiac aluminum block and '75 Firebird chassis with no fitment issues.

Our experience with Moroso is that they're willing to make any custom mods you can dream up (for a price, of course). Who else has made a pan for a nitro Pontiac with a -20 scavenge fitting (for remote pump) and with starter provisions deleted?

Eric

[jm455ho]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Is it nicer than this pan ? Does it have the kickout, trap doors and windage tray ?
I do not know of a Milodon kickout pan. And when I tried to get Canton to make me a Maxi kickout pan they would not make me one. Did not know it the guy who makes them was coming back to work and if he did they wanted mutilple (10) pan ordered.
Some of the biggest jerks I have ever dealt with for performance stuff in my life.
Steffs went out of their way to help me.

What part number is this?

[jm455ho]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

Tried that in the past and they didn't care to fix or correct the issue. We offer a better pan anyways and so does another Pontiac vendor. Canton and Milodon have nice offerings also. Little point to screw around with a company that didn't care, when times were good for them, but now they might being they have more competition.

What pan do you offer that is similar? Thanks

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by jm455ho

What part number is this?

1730

[Nacs Fab]

I wanted to follow up on this post with my Pan, its a Stefs 1240 full kickout, and a little different than the 1730 shown.





Inside looks almost identical to the 1730 from what I can tell:



BOTH of the pans listed here will need clearancing for a Titan Oil Pump, I borrowed these photos from someone to show the cutting/mods needed to clear the pump. I sent an email to Stefs to let them know and so far they changed their description on their website, but haven't made any pan mods to remedy this issue.

[Nacs Fab]

Another Tidbit of Info on these pans, they do take a little massaging to get things to fit correctly. I had to cut the tangs off the BOP 1-piece pan seal I used in the rear of the pan, but that is typical.

One bigger issue was my Billet front Cap needed extensive polishing to remove the sharp corners shown in this photo, I didn't take any after polish photos but it was almost rounded to the stud washer if you know what I mean.



Areas to be modified:



Even after removing the material, I used a ball peen hammer and pounded the inside of the aluminum pan outward.

Oh and I also had to clearance the lip on the bolt in windage tray as it contacted my counterweight in that location. With anything aftermarket, expect fitment issues to be worked out. I also had to modify my screen so that my dipstick would go through, no photos of that either.

[Dragncar]

My pan (for stock A body) needed zero modifications. Just a tiny dent I had to put in the cars frame where the little circle of aluminum for the plugs to reach the pan bolts on kickout side touched. I sent Steffs a cutout of my front billet cap and the pan came already modified.
I simply put two of the cork seals together with 3M between cap and cork. Bolted it down overnight, dry on top. I ran a teflon double scrapper so no gasket down the sides or front cover. Just Ultra Grey, little on top of cork seal. No leaks.
I did my own custom pump/pickup. Not really a fan of the Titan Pump.

[KGTO]

Not sure why I'm not getting notifications... :/

Just ordered the pan today, will report on fit .

Dragncar- where did you get the scraper?

[slowbird]

I'm struggling to see the difference between the 1240 and 1730 pans. Can we get depth and width measurements from both?

[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by slowbird

I'm struggling to see the difference between the 1240 and 1730 pans. Can we get depth and width measurements from both?

The 1240 is squared off where it would hit most factory crossmembers, the 1730 is clearanced by having tapered front portion of the pan for fitting most Factory crossmembers.

I would honestly say the 1240 is more of a Chassis Car pan than the 1730, which was probably developed for more Super Stock racing.

1730:



1240: