[Terry M. Hunt]

I hope to get this process started in the near future. This will be my 4th engine rebuild, so I’m no expert.. I expect it to take me a few weeks to do because I’m slow, deliberate, and meticulous, which was my approach on the other 4 engines I’ve rebuilt.

I’ve read and studied a lot about the various clearance checks that are recommended. These often involve rotating the engine by hand. It seems like much/most of the assembly lube applied would be gone by the time all this rotating/checking gets done. How do I avoid this?

[steve25]

That just is not an issue in terms of the bearings and rotating the crank around,and you only need a light film on the piston skirts.
Oil the pins well though.

The cylinder walls should be practically dry as that will aid in the rings seating faster.

[PontiacHO]

Assuming you’re using Plastigauge needing to rotate. Oil the crank journal and bearing cap after each is checked. I personally don’t use assembly lube on crank and rod journals because that’s circulating throughout the engine during initial startup along with the cam and lifter lube. I like Isky Rev Lube for cam and lifters. Install the cam and lifters after checking the rods and mains clearance. Less rotating then on your break in lubed cam and lifters. Several sizable globs of that isn’t good in oil galleries. As mentioned above, oil the wrist pins. Again personal preference but Ive used Dexron on the cylinder walls before pushing the pistons in the holes. Oil timing chain and gears and oil pump. Oil rocker arms and valvetrain contact points. Squirt some in the valve springs for the valve stems and seals. Most likely you’ll prelube before firing it off to ensure oil is in the lifters and pumping topside.

[KEN CROCIE]

What tools//measuring equipment do you have?

[Terry M. Hunt]

My friend has all the tools for checking clearances, etc. and has much more experience at using them. He will be looking over my shoulder during the rebuild to make sure I don’t gack something up.