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| The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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My 67 Firebird is out of action for a bit. I noted a little bit of water encroachment on the driver side lower corner, and started pressing on it to see if it was unsealing. I gave it a tiny lift, and the whole thing lifted up off the urethane bead. It now slides around freely. It has been 10-15 years since I had the windshield guy set that rear window in.
Didn't see that one coming. Now I need to decide if I reinstall with more urethane black goo, or go butyl tape. I'm glad I didn't romp severely last drive a couple days ago. I'm very surprised I didn't have it fly off.
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
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#2
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Anyone here done a diy on this for either the tape or urethane methods? Any hints or experiences? Thanks, y'all.
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
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#3
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I have done several pieces of glass using tape. Wasn't hard as long as you make sure to center the glass. I apply a bead of sealer along the edge of the glass also. As long as the clips are good and you buy the few tools you need you should be able to do it yourself.
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#4
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I've used 5/16 butyl tape on my first gen f-body back windows without any issues. The 3/8 tape sets the window up too high. I like to remove the clips from the studs and paint the studs with at least epoxy primer before reassembly, they are always rusty. Have some new clips on hand in case any of them break.
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#5
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Thanks, guys, I am thinking about the tape. The thickness tip was great insight. The black goo feels like a messy nightmare.
What kind of prep is needed at the pinch weld? If I was gonna do more black goo, it seems that leaving a 1/16" skin of urethane was desired. Does it need to be a completely urethane free channel before tape? Any surface prep on either the channel or glass? Thanks again!
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
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#6
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Make sure everything is CLEAN. If there is any rust use POR 15 or your favorite coating. I got my materials from my local glass company and they gave me a primer to use first.
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#7
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3m has a good brushable seam sealer that I've used on the pinch weld area. As stated above, clean clean clean the area with prep solvent or similar. I use rubbing alcohol on the glass, the better the prep on everything, the longer everything will last.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to SRGN For This Useful Post: | ||
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#8
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Got my supplies today, OER tape kit. Also got some new trim clips and clip studs because I had a few missing when I made a channel repair years ago. And a pair of suction cups!
I need to carve off the old urethane bead that is still in the channel. It looks like the glass came cleanly unattached from the bead, and the bead is firmly attached to the channel. Once I carve off the urethane bead, I will see my surface condition. I'm still a few days out from being able to get at this. I am in a hurry to get this back on the road so I can drive it before temps here skip through the 90's and beyond. This winter was effectively worthless, no real relief. Thanks, guys!
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
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#9
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Usually you would use 3/8 tape for the front wind shield and 5/16 for the rear
Make sure you use 3M pinch weld primer on any bare spots or after you sand rust away. Then apply it all the way around the entire pinch weld area. There is special adhesive in this primer and helps the tape stick like it needs to. all original GM cars have this in the pinch weld area. After install with Butyl tape use a tube of urethane to fill in around the edge all the way around the glass. Cut the tip with an upside-down L or 7. The upper edge of the 7 fits on the glass and the Cut part is deep enough to hit the bottom of the pinch weld. That will force the urethane in the area it needs to be in and get you a good leak free seal. Do not try to clean the urethane up until it dries. Once dry you can cut the excess with a new razor blade.
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White/Blue 71 455 HO T/A Auto Blue/Blue 71 455 HO T/A 4 Sp White/Sandalwood 71 455 HO T/A 4 Sp White/Black 70 RAIII T/A M21/373 (stripper) Carousel Red/Black 69 GTO Judge 4 Sp 2002 Firehawk Red/Black 6Sp |
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#10
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Thanks to all. Window is in, I was even able to put my son to use helping me put it in. It went better than I thought.
I used a 9mm allen wrench as a spacer to center the window horizontally, and a 7mm to space it vertically. I also used a pinch weld primer. It seems pretty solid. I might add some urethane on the edges in a couple weeks, but for now I am back on the road. Some small chunks of the old urethane I cut out functioned as spacer blocks to keep the window from sliding down. Yeah, recycling is my passion...
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Squidward For This Useful Post: | ||
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#11
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The tape you got didn't have the rubber spacers in the box? They usually are 2 in there?
I had a glass shop do a windshield once and they used urethane. I will NEVER do that again, they left a mess, too. It leaked after 3 years, pulled it, cleaned it up and went back to tape. I usually add a 2nd strip of tape in the lower corners which is a known leak area, never leaked. I've done at least 4 windshields in this car (GTO) and never had a leak. Once you gently set the glass in place on the tape, you can still slide it around some to position it. Once you have it where you want it, just press down to set it. Windshield usually only last like 5-7 years if you drive the car, they become hazy, spidering, etc. You can polish them, but many times it will have areas of 'effect', and will never be as clear as a new one. Rear glass lasts longer, it's not subjected to 'abrasive road spray' like the windshield. Can't count how many rear glass I've replaced across the multiple cars I've owned. I know people swear the urethane stuff is superior, but I've never had a glass pop out, and can't recall even back in the day them popping out, even in accidents. I have seen urethane fail on a number of cars tho... . .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#12
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No rubber spacers, which was a comment I read before I bought.
Yeah, urethane is messy and scared me. This was easy and pretty cheap. I have no problem with attacking this again in several years if I haven't traded it for a 2nd gen by then.
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
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#13
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I got a couple glass suction cups off slamazon inexpensively, work great, and surprisingly they have been more useful than I thought they would be.
https://www.amazon.com/Volpeblu-Capa...B6J99FL2/?th=1 It's a well spent $25. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#14
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I got these:
https://a.co/d/0e88Hxbg I also have a window I will soon be reglazing that some moron shot with a BB gun. So more use will be coming. I still have the front windshield that will need resealing.
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Squidward For This Useful Post: | ||
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