[dv657172]

65 GTO dedicated racecar

Car has had a swaybar that runs directly under the rear housing since I bought it which requires jacking the car up by the side frame rails in the rear rather then under the rear end which is a pain. (see pic - taken at end of race season, all cleaner now fyi)

Whats a good solution to this issue? Anti-roll bar? Car doesnt make a ton of horsepower yet but hopefully increasing it in time

Thanks

[Skip Fix]

How about this?
https://www.proeagle.com/products/floor-jack-extensions

[dv657172]

The issue isnt the height its that the swaybar runs directly under the rear diff and to try and jack up the car via the diff you would bend or at least stress the sway bar as there is a gap between the bar and the diff.

[TXSTARFIRE]

Put a wood block between the bar and the differential or just remove the bar. I dont think the bar does much for a drag car.

[Mike Davis]

I have a BMR anti roll bar on my 65 and 66. I use a block of wood between the bar and housing most of the time. The BMR has 2 clamps on the axle tubes and 2 links that go to the frame. When I am at the track I usually just out the jack under the bar. I haven't noticed any deflection or bending.
Does your bar bolt to the Lower Control Arms? Does the car leave level?

[ANDYA]

I have the same issue with my 65 GTO. I have a dedicated block of wood for this purpose. In my case a 2x4 is too thick. I believe it’s a piece of 5/4 with some blue tape on it so I can find it easy.

[dv657172]

Thanks for the wood idea guys. Will definitely work on that.

Mike - Welcome back to the board. The car does leave level and the bar is bolted to the control arms which are boxed.

[Mike Davis]

Thanks for the welcome back.

When my 66 had a bar bolted to the lowers I could not get it to leave straight or level is why I was asking.

Sounds like a block of wood will fix the issue.

[Skip Fix]

I was thinking the narrow tube spacer could get the rear around the bar.

[dv657172]

Skip Fix - thanks for the alternative. It might work but will give the block of wood a try first

[Skip Fix]

I think the block would be better and cheaper!

[GOAT8U2]

I always wondered why there wasn't a horseshoe like item that would slip through the swaybar, then spin it and you could push on this and it would only touch the rear diff and jack.

I guess you could do this with the wood block, slot it, slip through, spin it then you push on the bottom of the block and top of block pushes on rear diff and not the swaybar.

[Scarebird]

We all do it but I wonder at the wisdom of jacking by the diff?

I gave thought to putting a drain plug in the floor of the casting but not worth the potential for issues.

On a side note was gassing up here in NM and a Tundra pulled in and made a hell of a bang - like it hit a bollard. She pulled forward and even louder bang. Broken diff? She just came from the mechanic for brake work - maybe FOD in the diff?