[Cammer-6]

looking at used ones and have heard the Series 1 had a steep learning curve
so wondering if its worth a few $$ more to get a series 2?
currently looking on ebay. Im not on FB but can possibly get a son to be middleman.

[Dlaw455]

Don't get the sniper 1. Its been discontinued and Holley has been offering a program for people to upgrade from sniper 1 to 2.

[mysticmissle]

its a small change i have been told, the fuel regulator went external and the can plug changed to 3 pin and it has bluetooth capabilities

[JLMounce]

The Sniper 2 adds additional RF suppression as well, which was a documented issue with the first units. If you're looking for either, try and nab a Sniper 2, it's a better unit.

[Gator67]

I have the first version of the sniper on one of my cars, and haven’t had any issues with it. However, I did put a throttle lever extension on it to tame the super twitchy/abrupt tip-in. They supposedly fixed that issue with the sniper 2 so no need for the extension or progressive linkage mod. The TPS it’s supposedly improved as well.

[Cammer-6]

As luck would have it I ended up with a version 1.
Complete with the Distributor.
Guy seemed genuine as he was upgrading to a larger system
I watched systems MINUS the distributor sell on ebay for hundreds more
all of them were series 1 as well.
I clicked on a series 2 for $900 and oddly enough while I was closing the deal
it came up as sold...right before my very eyes

[Cammer-6]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

The Sniper 2 adds additional RF suppression as well, which was a documented issue with the first units. If you're looking for either, try and nab a Sniper 2, it's a better unit.

Was this RFI issue also an issue with the Hyperspark distributor?

[Cammer-6]

Originally Posted by mysticmissle

its a small change i have been told, the fuel regulator went external and the can plug changed to 3 pin and it has bluetooth capabilities

I bought a fuel tank with built in pump and regulator

[Formulajones]

I've been running the original sniper stealths for several years on 2 different cars without a single issue. No rfi problems or anything like that
Mine being the stealth units they never came with internal regulators like the other units did so I never experienced those problems either.

As far as I know when buying a new unit you get the updated versions now so no reason to be looking for an original version.

[Cammer-6]

When buying used,you get what you get.

In my case the owner said it worked fine but he just needed more.

[HWYSTR455]

The RFi issue were for engines with distributors in the front. That put the dizzy cap right next to the location of the circuit board of the throttle body.

So Ford, Buick, Olds, AMC, etc.

Nothing really 'wrong' with the Sniper 1, just doesn't have some of the same features as the Sniper 2. You can add most with the parts Holley still offers, like the throttle adapter and kickdown.

You can use the bluetooth module on a Sniper 1 if you flash it with the V2 software, and change the CAN connector to an M8.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UJT2PSAAQ&th=1



.

.

[Cammer-6]

I was looking at a kit car Cobra at a car show Sunday which has a Sniper on a SBF
and it had a somewhat crude aluminum plate between the throttle body and the distributor.
I didnt get a chance to talk to owner,but suspect it was a crude attempt at an RFI shield.

Just curious if the RFI issue was cured with the MSD hyperspark distributor?

[Dlaw455]

I had the xflow version which is similar to sniper but flowed more and supported more h.p. I only ran it for 200 miles before selling for only like $600. I also had the hyperspark distributor and cdi and had nothing but rfi issues. Even hydrolocked the engine once which is when I got rid of all of it. Went to terminator x system with wilson 4500 throttle body and cnp ignition. 0 issues and runs much better despite people telling me otherwise. The coil and cdi were both on the firewall near the distributor which may have led to the rfi.

[Cammer-6]

anyone tried tin foil to see how to isolate the problem?

[Formulajones]

Ive seen people try all kinds of Micky mouse solutions. Most of what Ive seen are poor install practices. Bundling wires all together and old cars with their own set of wiring problems before electronics were introduced.

The sniper wiring needs to be separated as it exits the sniper and routed to its intended target. Preferably with a nice rfi sheathing. Ive seen several examples with sniper wires all clumped together and actually giving itself rfi interference.

My stuff comes right out of the back of the old sniper 1 and runs right next to the distributor and coil as it heads to the firewall. No issues.

If a little tidiness and thought process goes into it, and the car itself doesn't have its own issues, it really won't be a problem.

[LKLusza]

Originally Posted by Dlaw455

Don't get the sniper 1. Its been discontinued and Holley has been offering a program for people to upgrade from sniper 1 to 2.

Agreed. If you can address the RFI issues, the original works well enough but the new version really seems to be the thing. I have the spreadbore version of the Gen1 so I'm outta luck. No "Gen2" version of that on the horizon at all.

[Cammer-6]

what about shielding wire with braided wire mesh
if so which wires need covering?

[Formulajones]

The biggest thing I've found with all the Sniper 1 installs I've done is just making sure the wires coming out of the back aren't clumped together. The TPS, 02, temp wires, and the cable for the dash control all need to go different directions so I route them accordingly. I'll typically use very short RFI sheath to protect them individually from themselves until they get routed where they need to go. Once separated I don't bother with any shielding.

The sheathing can be somewhat expensive and found at various suppliers on the internet but it works well. I'm not brand specific, I just want something that's black and inconspicuous so it doesn't stand out. The style that velcros on is very easy to work with.

I'll run the wires from the back of the sniper to where they need to go, typically running right past the coil, under the coil, past either side of the distributor at the base depending on whether it's going left or right along the firewall. Basically it's run right past all the electronics of the car and I've had zero RFI issues.

For the record I'd do the same thing with a Sniper 2 install anyway as a precaution.

What I have found however is that when I tried to clump all the sniper wires together at the back of the unit in an attempt to make it look tidy, even for a short 8 or 10 inches until I reached the firewall, I got all kinds of weird RFI interference. The big one was the 02 sensor shutting on and off and reheating constantly. Basically the Sniper was interfering with itself, it wasn't caused by anything on the car at all. Once I separated the Sniper wires at the back of the unit (where they are closest together) and shielded them from each other the Sniper 1's have been excellent.

Both of our own cars I have them on have been working for 6-7 years now, and I've even swapped an engine in one to a completely different combo. Touched up the tune and it's flawless. I've never had any TPS issues, IAC issues, Injector issues. They have simply been really good units that do exactly as they are supposed to do.

[Cammer-6]

Thanks,this will help me tremendously

Originally Posted by Formulajones

The biggest thing I've found with all the Sniper 1 installs I've done is just making sure the wires coming out of the back aren't clumped together. The TPS, 02, temp wires, and the cable for the dash control all need to go different directions so I route them accordingly. I'll typically use very short RFI sheath to protect them individually from themselves until they get routed where they need to go. Once separated I don't bother with any shielding.

The sheathing can be somewhat expensive and found at various suppliers on the internet but it works well. I'm not brand specific, I just want something that's black and inconspicuous so it doesn't stand out. The style that velcros on is very easy to work with.

I'll run the wires from the back of the sniper to where they need to go, typically running right past the coil, under the coil, past either side of the distributor at the base depending on whether it's going left or right along the firewall. Basically it's run right past all the electronics of the car and I've had zero RFI issues.

For the record I'd do the same thing with a Sniper 2 install anyway as a precaution.

What I have found however is that when I tried to clump all the sniper wires together at the back of the unit in an attempt to make it look tidy, even for a short 8 or 10 inches until I reached the firewall, I got all kinds of weird RFI interference. The big one was the 02 sensor shutting on and off and reheating constantly. Basically the Sniper was interfering with itself, it wasn't caused by anything on the car at all. Once I separated the Sniper wires at the back of the unit (where they are closest together) and shielded them from each other the Sniper 1's have been excellent.

Both of our own cars I have them on have been working for 6-7 years now, and I've even swapped an engine in one to a completely different combo. Touched up the tune and it's flawless. I've never had any TPS issues, IAC issues, Injector issues. They have simply been really good units that do exactly as they are supposed to do.