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#1
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Been chasing an overheat issue. Finally determined that my 2-speed electric fan was cutting out on high after about 15 minutes of driving. Replaced both high and low speed relays and the switch. Test drive yesterday with same results; temp going up rapidly at the last 2 traffic lights before getting home. Shut off the engine and the fan was not running, it is direct wired so it can be run without the ignition on. Turn off the fan switch and then back on and the fan comes on. Can the fan motor be intermittent , and why cutting out after a certain period of time? Any other ideas?
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.60 @ 126 so far... |
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#2
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When you have it on, make sure you have power and ground at the fan connection. Check with the fan plugged in so you test under load. I'd look for a poor ground or high resistance connection to power first. The fan could be bad, but power/ground need to be checked first.
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#3
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Try a full factory shroud back or radiator
Electric fans need fan shroud back side of radiator draw air like a vacuum. Try it report back..
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If you cant drive from gas pump to gas pump across the map, its not a street car. http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/b...hop/?start=100 |
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#4
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Does your fan have a thermal breaker on it? If so that may be going bad.
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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#5
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Thanks guys for the info. Will test some of these ideas first of the week. One other thing I had forgotten about is the 40A circuit breaker where the power comes in and then goes out to the 2 relays. Is there a way to test that breaker or just replace it and see what happens?
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.60 @ 126 so far... |
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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Quote:
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.60 @ 126 so far... |
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#8
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Inrush current on startup is usually 2-3x of running current, so a 60a fuse should be about right.
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#9
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Got the new 60A fuse link installed and took a test drive. Overheating problem solved. The fan ran on high as it should; no cutting out as before. The old circuit breaker was indeed the problem. Not sure why it took me so long to figure that out. Thanks for the help from all of you who weighed in.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.60 @ 126 so far... |
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