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#1
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I have a minor front main seal leak that I've grown tired of over the years, and while I'm in there I'm thinking of replacing the balancer while I'm at it.
I have a stock one right now and I'm pretty sure it's unslipped since the timing mark lines up with TDC as it should, but since it's so old, I don't want to test fate and keep running it at the risk of it falling apart on me. I'm looking at the Powerbond stock replacement ones, since I don't need anything fancy. Are they any good? And do I have to worry about the timing mark to crank snout keyway orientation being off from what it should be? Would appreciate some input.
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1979 Trans Am W72 400/4-Speed WS6 - Starlight Black Hardtop ![]() |
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#2
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I have installed 2 in last year. One on a lil green 68 350 HO bird, and the other on a 76 455 T/A. Both fit nicely and were spot on on index. Neither shook hell out of anything after install.
Went on just like you’d expect. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Sun Tuned For This Useful Post: | ||
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#3
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X2. Timing marks were spot on. Nice easy press fit
Powerbond/Dayco Harmonic Balancer Pontiac 1968-Up (Except 301) Performance Street 4-Bolt Harmonic Balancers/Dampers w/ Timing Marks, Non SFI *PBO-PB1056ST Performance Street Balancers are manufactured using a unique process that heat bonds the dampening rubber between a new high strength modular iron center and inertia ring. Performance Street Balancers' heat bonding process eliminates slipping and component separation up to 6500 RPM. These balancers also feature permanently etched timing marks in 2-degree increments and additional 90-degree increments.
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Ed 1968 GTO (Thanks Mom) 2006 Silverado 2015 Chevy Express ![]() 2024 Cadillac LYRIQ Last edited by OG68; 06-14-2026 at 08:49 PM. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to OG68 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#4
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I have installed 3 in the last 3 years. No issue with any of them. Light press fit. Good choice for a stock or slightly modified engine.
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#5
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Good to know. How tight a press fit are we talking? I always thought Poncho balancers were able to be slipped on and off by hand vs. a genuine press-fit. Am I going to need a balancer puller and installer? Because then that introduces the possible need to remove the fan shroud, which is kind of annoying for a 2nd-gen F-Body. Maybe the fan shroud will clear a balancer puller, who knows.. Let me know, thanks!
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1979 Trans Am W72 400/4-Speed WS6 - Starlight Black Hardtop ![]() |
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#6
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I can't give you a true press fit number on the Powerbond balancer. It is NOT a slip fit like the factory unit. Also not nearly as much press fit as an ATI balancer which is quite tight and I believe they say they are .002 press. I would guess the press is .0007"-.0013. Using an installer would be the safest and best way to put it on. Commercially available flat disc removers/installers are pretty compact and affordable. I think you would have room on a 2nd. gen F car without removing that difficult shroud. Not positive.
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Perfect, thanks! Finally, and perhaps most importantly... do I run a risk of snapping this balancer bolt while trying to unbolt it? I would think the lack of exposure to heat, the likelihood of oil leaks leading to seepage into the threads, not to mention the sheer size of the bolt would reduce the likelihood of it snapping, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little afraid, considering who knows how long it's been since it was last unbolted. Have you ever witnessed a snapped balancer bolt? Because if that's the case, then that's almost a guaranteed engine pull, even with how talented I am at drilling out snapped bolts.
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1979 Trans Am W72 400/4-Speed WS6 - Starlight Black Hardtop ![]() |
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#9
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Almost zero chance you’re gonna snap off the balanced bolt while trying to remove it.
If your car had been sitting at the bottom of lake for a few decades is still wouldn’t likely break off. Some people can break a crowbar in a sandbox so your mileage may vary…..
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#10
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^^^
As was the case with me, thank God. Said screw it; went out there; soaked it with some PB; put a pair of vise grips on the flywheel as per Sirrotica's advice; and it came off without much fuss. Burred the hell out of the very tip of the crank snout with a seal puller trying to get the old FMS out, enough to create a bit of a fuss when putting on the new balancer... but that's nothing some Emory cloth can't take care of. Overall, glad I broke her loose and I have the new Powerbond ordered and on the way now and I'll run by hobo freight and get that balancer installer. The stock one slipped off pretty easy after a few taps with a deadblow. The Woodruff key is still in place on the crank... should I just not mess with it and be happy that it's still there to index the new balancer? Lol
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1979 Trans Am W72 400/4-Speed WS6 - Starlight Black Hardtop ![]() Last edited by nUcLeArEnVoY; 06-15-2026 at 01:37 PM. |
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#11
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I have used PB SFI balancers on Eagle stroker crankshafts and found they slipped on just as easily as a factory balancer on a factory crankshaft.
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Will Rivera '69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears '69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress ‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here: https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb |
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