[HWYSTR455]

I was going to dial the idle mix screws out to 1 1/4 each, remove/move the PCV, make sure only the batt/12v is on the coil and nothing else, and verify initial timing. Maybe bring a new coil to try, and check the dizzy cap for carbon tracking.

And yes, was going to bring a tach and vacuum gauge, just so there's no question there.

Was hoping to go there tonight, but not up to par the last couple days, will have to see how I feel later.

The note Paul included on the engine was for total timing of 34 degrees, so with the 18 degree bushing, would call for roughly 14 initial. Since you can't determine the advance curve or vacuum advance needs of an engine in actual driving conditions on the dyno, those recommendation were obviously omitted.

So mentally reviewing theory, the firing order is #1, then #8, and if due to the PCV being on the #1 runner, potentially running lean, possibility of advanced timing, and the 'noise' coming from roughly the passenger rear of the engine, it's possible #8 is experiencing pre-ignition, which certainly can cause a knock type sound. Might be a stretch, but feel its worth eliminating that factor/question.

Dial-back timing lights can be tricky, have seen folks have erroneous readings, and not even realizing it.

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