View Single Post
  #5  
Old 04-01-2009, 09:34 AM
HWYSTR455's Avatar
HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 14,746
Default

Very thorough post ChipHead, kuddos. I have a couple things to add:

* Before the heads are on, verify the timing marks on the balancer.

* When installing the distributor, put the timing mark on 12 degrees (balancer) and line up the rotor. This will prevent you from having to adjust the timing much, if at all, on initial startup. You could even go to 18, but depending on the timing cover, you may not have marks that high.

* Have the heater controls set to 'Heat'. This allows air pockets to be removed from the heater core as well.

* You can use a small squirt bottle to fill the carb through the vent tube. Use a bottle that's safe with gas, and you can test it by putting a little gas in it and letting it sit for a while.

* Tighten oil pan rail bolts before the timing cover bolts. Use the correct rear pan gasket for the pan you're using. RTV in the corners of the main cap/block area, don't over do it.

* I like dumping the oil and changing the filter after initial startup and cam break in, and check for debris & bearing material. This one is critical, since most failures occur at this point, and no sense going forward if you find trash.

* Use dino-oil on breakin, no synthetics! Valvoline VR1 10-30 is a good choice. Use cam breakin additive too. Cam lobes and lifter faces should have cam breakin goo on them. I like adding what's left over on the gear, espcially if using a new gear on the distributor.

* I wipe bores with engine oil. I dip piston/rod assemblies in a coffee can with oil before installing in the bores. This ensures everything gets oiled.

* I wipe rod and main bearing surfaces with a brake cleaner and a clean rag before putting the bearing half in. Only wipe the rear parts of the bearing, not the face that rides on the journals. No scuffing, that's old technology, and affects bearing coatings that are there for breakin. I wipe crank journals with oil before installing the rod big ends, or dropping the crank in the block, as well as a light coat on the bearing face itself. You can use assembly lube if you choose, but I personally use oil. If you are using assembly lube, I suggest using the bottled stuff that says Engine Assembly Lube, and not cam lube stuff (some are the same, but some aren't).

* I also wipe rod big end sides with oil (or assembly lube), as well as the thrust bearing side surfaces.

.

__________________
.

1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be