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#1
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Brakes - Assembly Questions
Morning Sirs,
I am doing brakes today. Painted everything. Ready to install. Wondering where you guys use anti-seize and lube. I will put anti-seize on the caliper bracket where the brake pad rides against it. Do you guys put anti-seize on the backs of the pads. For the slide pins and round inserts. I have some brake lube. Should I coat both sides of the caliper pin inserts. Any place else to lube. Thank you! |
#2
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Looks like you have a bunch of nice parts there for your disc brakes. Concerning the products you have: I don't see any application for the silver container of anti-seize in this disc brake repair. Although I admit some people use it on the back side of the brake pads, I see no reason to do so. It makes a hell of a mess, is nearly impossible to remove and you certainly don't want it getting on the rotor or friction material. The other little tube, I was not familiar with so I took a look at the Permatex web site. It looks to be similar to Sil Glide, which is what I use. The areas to lube with this material is the guide pins, the areas on the ends of the caliper, both ends where the tabs of the pads ride, and the 4 rubber O-rings on each caliper. The 2 little ones should be visible in the caliper where the small end of the pins go through. The large ones are inside the 2 silver bushings on the other end. Push out the bushings and liberally coat the bushings with the lube and put them back in. Some people coat the back of the pads as well with this lube, I do not. I don't see any purpose for this and the factory does not do this either. Happy stopping.
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#3
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#4
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We NEVER use any lube that could touch the pads themselves
If you are thinking it will be an 'anti-squeak' deal, there is too much risk of contaminating the pads with lube and affecting brake performance.
All the new pads have anti-squeak material on the backside from the factory. Some have a coating, others have a thin shim. Both of those work pretty well. Just lube the pins and the bushings, per mgarblik's advice. Don't overthink it and don't overdo it. And then clean off any lube that gets onto the rotor with brake cleaner on a lint-free rag before you button it up. But do that carefully so you don't ruin your new painted parts. Good luck! |
#5
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Thanks everyone! With the miles I drive, I am really doing all this for the next guy
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#6
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Looks good..are you replacing the rubber flex line as well?
__________________
466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
#7
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I use the two products above for disc brake jobs. Brake caliper grease as outlined above. I use the disc quiet on the back of the pads. I did one project and with all new parts I had an annoying noise squeal. My mechanic pal suggested the disc quiet and life has been great ever since. Put it on the pads and let them sit for 20-30 minutes before install and you are good to go. Also I use anti seize on the bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
...Steve T. "Resurrection of a 1970 Trans Am" Blog www.455hota.wordpress.com ------------------------------------- 1966 GTO 4 speed Hardtop Alabama car (Marina Turquoise w turquoise interior) 1970 TA 4 speed Canadian car (Lucerne Blue w bright blue interior) |
The Following User Says Thank You to 455hota For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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__________________
Jeff |
#9
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Hoses Urrrrr
Coming along. Onto hoses. That little 3/8" bolt is getting rounded off even with a flare wrench.
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#10
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I had this happen a few months ago. I soaked it with penetrating oil over-night then the next morning I used a can of compressed air held upside down and focused the cold air onto the fitting. The fitting shrunk just a little bit and it came right out. Worth a try?
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1968 Firebird IAIIa 522 340 E-heads Northwind with XFlow TBI 4L80E 3.50:1 Rear 1969 Firebird 350/TH350 Mostly stock 2.56:1 Rear |
The Following User Says Thank You to punkin For This Useful Post: | ||
#11
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https://aboloxtools.com/Wright-Tool-...SABEgI96PD_BwE
When all else fails, I have successfully used these for rounded flare nuts. Just a suggestion. |
The Following User Says Thank You to tempest1964 For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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#13
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I gently used a little heat first. It always cracked loose. Good luck
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#14
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Well, I got one old rubber brake line off and I was successful at allowing the master cylinder to drain out before I could get the new line on. The brake line mount on the frame fought me and I lost.
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#15
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You should never use anti-seize on brake caliper guide pins or the caliper bracket where the pads slide. If you used anti-seize to lubricate the caliper bracket for pad movement, there's a good chance they will bind up sooner rather than later. Anti-seize is meant to be used with non-moving parts only, typically bolts.
__________________
1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
The Following User Says Thank You to ZeGermanHam For This Useful Post: | ||
#16
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#17
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Bend those little tabs on the top of the outer pad down with a little hammer. Make it so the pad is a little hard to put in the caliper. Otherwise, those tabs are a good distance away from the caliper casting. The outer pad will be loose and rattle once installed. This will also cause noise and squeaking. Put pads on dry as the others have stated.
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#18
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#19
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#20
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I used to work on fire trucks and police cars. I know this ain`t a police car but, I`ve seen open flames coming out of wheel wells on hot brakes from people using just any petro based grease on brake parts. It can`t handle the heat and will run off and burn. FYI.
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The Following User Says Thank You to PunchT37 For This Useful Post: | ||
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