FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#81
|
||||
|
||||
Only thing I asked about was loss of pressure LOL. Which was damn near nil. I can drive in the cold now though. Wayne told me I could Use Lucas Hot Rod Oil or VR1. I don’t know the reason, I suppose I could ask, I’m just telling you what the man said
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#82
|
||||
|
||||
In the case of Valvoline VR1 racing oils you can mix the full synthetic or synthetic blend with each other, and even different grades with any of the VR1 products. Even the “non” synthetic VR1 is still a synthetic blend of the full synthetic VR1. The only down side I know of with full synthetic VR1 is the price. Some racing engines get the oil changed to frequently to give the full synthetic any advantage for the extra cost.
I took one of my cars out over the weekend, with 20w50 VR1 full synthetic. It has a crank out of a Top fuel car (rediculous oil clearance!). It was a chilly 25*F out, I watched the gauge when I started it up, I could not tell much difference compared to when it was warmer. BTW, if your a fair weather car guy, you should know that taking the car for a brisk spin in the bitter cold feels like your spraying it with NOS. . Personally if it were mine, and VR1 was being used, and 20w50 was what the builder set the engine up for, I would wait till the warrantee is past, and then switch to 20w50 VR1 full synthetic. No down side that I know of (other than $). For ring and cylinder wear, every test I have ever seen the 30W oil’s were superior over 40W and 50W. Last edited by Jay S; 01-03-2024 at 08:38 PM. |
#83
|
||||
|
||||
Is was a question about oil. We can get at least 7 or 8 more pages out of this. Lol
|
#84
|
||||
|
||||
Who else to go by then your tested engine builder. Please don’t send him a link to this thread..he’ll probably throw you out of his shop…LOL
__________________
|
#85
|
||||
|
||||
We definitely have the audience for it..lol
__________________
|
#86
|
||||
|
||||
I doubt he's suggesting to avoid synthetic because it's a flat tappet. If that's the case he doesn't have a clear understanding of oil.
You know how many people have run synthetics in flat tappet engines? More than we can count. Myself I've done it for decades. Even both of my current dailys have flat tappets and nothing but synthetic since break in and both have logged nearly 60k miles a piece. I guess if he warrantied your engine for leaks and is worried his seal job may not hold up with a better oil then by all means follow his advice until warranty is over, then run what ever the hell you want. |
#87
|
|||
|
|||
Not criticizing his builders choice at all, just reply to the comment that its because synthetic causes leaks... or that changing from regular oil to synthetic causes leaks. Very old outdated myths.
|
#88
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I also have & do run synthetic on FT cam engines, never had a problem so I agree anyone claiming those things about synthetic oils dont have a good understanding of oil. The other thing I have read about was not using synthetic on a new or rebuilt engine for ring seating issues, but have also read of guys using it for break in & that the bore/honing process matters more for ring seating... some new cars come with it that dont get broken in first. |
#89
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
If it were the oils fault both of my daily drivers would have died a cam failure death a long time ago |
#90
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Yes the taper of the lifter/cam is what rotates the lifters... but based on the claim synthetic is too "slippery" so doesnt have the required friction to allow the lifters to rotate. No idea if that could be a real issue, but with all the talk recently of some cam/lifters not having the proper taper machined in, maybe it can contribute to less rotation? Kind of the same reason some say to not use synthetic for break in, it reduces friction so much that rings wont seat. Yet many new engines like corvettes come with synthetic as factory fill. |
#91
|
||||
|
||||
They use roller lifters, however.
__________________
1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#92
|
|||
|
|||
"Most people prefer using a conventional oil for the initial break-in, and then use a conventional oil for the next 1500 to 5000 miles before switching to a synthetic if they want to use a synthetic oil.
Synthetic oils are made from higher quality base stocks that provide superior lubricity as well as longevity. Some say synthetic oils are “too slippery” for use as a break-in oil while others say using a high quality synthetic oil for the initial break-in is a waste of money because the oil will be drained within a few hours or few hundred miles once the initial break-in process is finished. There’s no straight answer to this question because of how long it takes for the rings to seat depends on how they cylinder walls were finished." Source: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...ly-lube-needs/ ( Information provided in this post does not represent any endorsement. And unless specified it is not based on personal experience and is offered for general interest only ) .
__________________
'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve C. For This Useful Post: | ||
#93
|
|||
|
|||
True, was referring to the ring break in thing....
|
#94
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Thing started leaking a short time later. I have changed the oil pan gasket and the valley gasket. It still has a small leak today at 150,000 miles. Prolly the cam sensor o ring. Thing is, I used the same synthetic oil in my NEW built poncho 455. Even with rope seal. NO leaks. So, maybe not a myth as I thought also. I`m 60 years old and have been a mechanic for 25 years, even though I`m out now. So, this is new to me and maybe not a myth. |
#95
|
||||
|
||||
So my builder and I are friends so I asked him. He said he really didn’t care what I ran at this point as by now the engine is “broken in”. In the past he has had problems with ring seal with people immediately running exotic oil from day one. He stands behind his recommendation for Lucas or VR1 but any quality oil made for our cars is fine.
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#96
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Quote:
|
#97
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Did you ask him what main and rod bearing clearances you have? I'm only asking because my builder recommended 15w40. My clearances may be just a tiny bit more than (what I've seen as) the ideal for street motor, which is 0.0025 main and 0.0020 for rods. What I have is 0.0027 main and 0.0024 rod. But I've also seen mentioned the ideal for clearances at 0.001 per inch of journal diameter which would be 0.003 main and 0.002 rod for my crank. I have a 60psi pump with 25 psi at hot idle and 60+ psi above 1700 rpm. Cold is 60++. That's with 15w40.
__________________
70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
The Following User Says Thank You to jhein For This Useful Post: | ||
#98
|
|||
|
|||
Disclaimer: Major Players sorted in no particular order Source
Does this apply to the 5 companies listed above in post 96?
__________________
'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
#99
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
|
#100
|
||||
|
||||
Well then you can consider all the other marketing hype facts not in evidence…LOL It’s all marketing and all what you buy into.
__________________
|
Reply |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|