[abx131]

Have a 67' Lemans with a 326 and a fresh rebuilt Carter 4 barrel carb. On a cold start in the morning it needs the pedal pumped 6-8 times before it will "pop''. Even then it requires a finesse to start. After it runs it is fine for other starts during the day. It is almost like the gas runs out of the carb on a long (24 hr) periods of rest. We go through this routine every morning when my son takes the car to school. Half the time he floods it and I have to take over. It should start a lot faster than this, right? Any thoughts??

[2002Z4CSS]

Sounds like the choke is not adjusted properly or it has a bad choke pull off.

[steve25]

The choke should close all the way on the first gas pedal pump,and at that point it should only take one more pedal pump at most to get the motor to fire, then once the motor starts the choke should open up some 1/8" which will be enough air to let the motor be at a 1500 rpm high idle.

[68 Firebird]

what steve said X2.

thats exactly how my Q-jet fires up.

Gerry C

[Craig Hendrickson]

Assuming the choke operates correctly, I think it may be the gasoline -- do you have a 15% ethanol mix blend? If so, the fuel evaporates out of the carb bowl rapidly. We have that problem in So NV. One solution is to install an electric pusher pump back by the tank to preload the carb fuel bowl before trying to start. You don't need a race-quality pump, just a pulse type available from NAPA and other parts stores.

[abx131]

I have never paid attention to the gas mix at the pump, I will check it tomorrow. I will have to also check the choke. It drives me crazy. It should start much easier.

[frankyboy455]

Originally Posted by Craig Hendrickson

One solution is to install an electric pusher pump back by the tank to preload the carb fuel bowl before trying to start. You don't need a race-quality pump, just a pulse type available from NAPA and other parts stores.

can you elaborate a bit on that ? Does it go inline, in the back ? Could it go inside the tank ?

[steve25]

It goes inline, in the back and by all means, not in the tank!!!
The inlet to the pump should be very close to being level with the lowest portion of the tank.

[carbking]

Try this:

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Tro...#Hardstartcold

Jon.

[JohnS66GTO]

Jon's trick is how I start my '66 after it's been sitting more than 24 hrs. The only difference is that I press the pedal once just to set the choke, then crank away. Many times it starts on its own after about 10 seconds on the starter without further pumping of the accelerator pedal. I'm convinced it's a fuel evaporation issue, as Jon mentions in his article.

John

[abx131]

If it is a fuel evaporation issue, will a carb spacer help to raise it off the manifold? I checked our gas while I was at the pump yesterday. Sticker on all pumps at all gas stations here in WA say "Up to 10% ethynol is added". I have tried various tricks posted here and they all have helped. My son just needs to understand why this is happening and how to work around it rather than just flood the heck out of it and get frustrated about it. Kids today have no patience.

[JohnS66GTO]

Originally Posted by abx131

Kids today have no patience.

That, and kids today are used to electronic fuel injection.

My garage smells like gas for about 24 hours after I shut my car down, then it stops smelling. If I start the car during the "smelly" period, it starts pretty quickly (still not as fast as fuel injection). After the air has cleared, I have to crank it a while. That's why I'm convinced it's an evaporation thing on my car.

As for the carb spacer idea, I didn't notice a difference in cold cranking times when I blocked off my exhaust crossover, which should allow the carb to run cooler. So I don't know if a carb spacer will help either. Carter AFB's have open bowl vents, and the fuel available these days evaporates very quickly. I don't know how much you can really do about it with your current equipment, other than trying different brands of gas and see if one is better than the rest.

You may have to add an electric pump back at the tank to re-fill the carb bowls before cranking the car. I have not done this, but many others on this forum have. Hopefully one of them will chime in.

John

[Schurkey]

Could easily be empty float bowl due to leaks or evaporation. If not, take a look at:

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/Adj...tic_Chokes.htm

[PLAY400]

As long as there is fuel in the accelerator pump and it is working right should only have to pump it once to prime, set choke and high speed idle. Once it starts the choke pull-off should open the choke plate a tad. I set mine at 1/4". You will have all sorts of grief if choke plate does not close completely or if acc. pump is iffy.

[Pontirag]

I lived in some very cold climates before. I got around cold starts and dead battery's by installing an electrical fuel pump and a manual choke and an electronic (hei) ignition.

You turn on the pump and listen for the clicking noise. when it slows down you set the choke and crank it over.

presuming everything else is in ordershe starts right up.

crazy as it sounds but, depending on how mny miles are on your engine, I have found that a new timing chin set up installed makes a big difference too.

[abx131]

Does an electric fuel pump only get used during starts and then once it is running the car just uses the mechanical unit on the motor or do you remove or bypass the mechanical unit and always use the electrical pump?

[steve25]

The electric pump needs to run all the time unless you set it up as a bypass, although I did have a electric inline pusher pump in one of my cars that went south while driving and I made it home just fine as long as I did not give the motor more than 3/8`s throttle or go over 3000 rpm.
And this I think would depend if the pump was a vain or g-rotor type, which mine was vain.
I guess the weight of gas I had above the pump in the tank and the amount of suction the factory pump can muster is enought to spin the vain/pump to some degree?

[Pontirag]

yes,

Install the electric pump in the main fuel line between the tank and the mechanical pump. preferably as close to the tank as is reasonable.

use a separate electrical switch for your electrical fuel pump. and make sure you use a fuse between the battery and the switch.choose a fuse that is rated at the same amps as the pump.

Dont forget to shut off the switch when you shut off your car. It may flood the carb/engine but it will kill the battery and the electrical pump may burn out.

If you drop off the car to have it serviced be sure to tell the mechanics. and later call to remind them to shut it off or when you come to pick up the car you will have the problems listed above.

[chinquapalian]

i got tired of all the crankin on my 65 326. if it hasnt been fired in 24 hrs i give it a shot of gas around the butterfly nut on the carb stud. unhandy but works. i think its the crappy gas

[pont3]

I don't think there's a clear cut answer here. I have a '71 that I drive daily (holley spread-bore equipped), and a '72 (q-jet equipped) that I drive infrequently. The '71 ALWAYS starts right up after ONE push of the pedal, regardless if it's sat for one day or one week. The '72 ALWAYS requires substantial cranking regardless whether it sat for 24 hrs or 96 hrs. The fuel I use does state 10 percent meth.

Personally, I don't feel any electric fuel pumps are needed, I'm more inclined to believe the problem lies within your carb.