[72pontiac]

does someone make the seal that staples to front fender well and sits on top of frame rail. in front of control arms up to the core support.

[jeff chmura]

Parts place has them, there's a set on eBay now, can't link from my phone. $24 bucks
Jeff

[72pontiac]

Originally Posted by jeff chmura

Parts place has them, there's a set on eBay now, can't link from my phone. $24 bucks
Jeff

Thanks. Not sure why I couldn't find them.

[Bobalong]

Surely our host sells them ?

[72pontiac]

Originally Posted by Bobalong

Surely our host sells them ?

obviously I would try that first. But I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer.

[jarhead]

From our host - https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/De...A&web_access=Y

[jtea64]

I just finished installing a set from out host.
64 uses three pieces each side.
They supply stainless staples compares to the carbon steel used at the factory.

[Bobalong]

Originally Posted by jtea64

I just finished installing a set from out host.
64 uses three pieces each side.
They supply stainless staples compares to the carbon steel used at the factory.

There was a thread awhile back on this subject. Many found the factory staples almost impossible to remove, let alone installing new ones.

How did you accomplish your install ?

I am considering pop rivets.

[72pontiac]

Originally Posted by jarhead

From our host - https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/De...A&web_access=Y

Interesting I searched for 65 didn't find it. See its listed for early 64 yet my 2nd week jan 65 has them. possibly 64 inner fenders as there is evidence of a prior front end collision.

[jtea64]

Bobalong ask: "Many found the factory staples almost impossible to remove, let alone installing new ones. How did you accomplish your install ?"

It takes a bucket load of patience and is not fun like bolting on a tripower.
1) Cut the staples loose to remove.
2) To install, I cleaned up all the original holes in the inner fender/wheelhouse with a drill bit .002" larger than the staples.
3) I reformed every staple to fit the spacing of the original staples.
4) For the large splash shield, I started the first staples in one of the corners.
5) I clamped the splash shield to the wheelhouse one spot at a time and drilled through the old staple holes as a guide and then through the new splash shield.
6) Then inserted a staple and folded it over with hand tools.
It took hours but the results was like original. No need to go to all this trouble unless you are in the "like original" club.

[72pontiac]

Originally Posted by jtea64

Bobalong ask: "Many found the factory staples almost impossible to remove, let alone installing new ones. How did you accomplish your install ?"

It takes a bucket load of patience and is not fun like bolting on a tripower.
1) Cut the staples loose to remove.
2) To install, I cleaned up all the original holes in the inner fender/wheelhouse with a drill bit .002" larger than the staples.
3) I reformed every staple to fit the spacing of the original staples.
4) For the large splash shield, I started the first staples in one of the corners.
5) I clamped the splash shield to the wheelhouse one spot at a time and drilled through the old staple holes as a guide and then through the new splash shield.
6) Then inserted a staple and folded it over with hand tools.
It took hours but the results was like original. No need to go to all this trouble unless you are in the "like original" club.

How about the kinda, sorta, wanna be original club. Did you bend outward or inward. Did you put rubber inside or out. Inserted the staple through the rubber or the steel first with the legs pointing in or out.

[jtea64]

Here is the way my 64 was assembled at Fremont.
Note the staple ends overlap. The originals staples were shorter and did not even meet. Maybe I should have clipped the staple ends before using them.

[JAKE 64]

Originally Posted by jtea64

Here is the way my 64 was assembled at Fremont.
Note the staple ends overlap. The originals staples were shorter and did not even meet. Maybe I should have clipped the staple ends before using them.

For 1964

Some other methods for install:

Required:
Inner wheel well (skirt) loose in final paint, hat pin (the larger the better), 1/16" bit and drill, needle nose pliers, and regular pliers. Wrap two layers of masking tape on the end of the needle nose pliers for protection. I start with the largest splash shield while I am still fresh. Although for practice, you could start with the small narrow piece between the rear of the skirt and the end of the fire wall.
I have used our sponsor's carbon steel staples with success, and have stayed away from some of the alternative materials that are available.
On carpet or a large blanket, lay the skirt in the center, and use one of the new staples to check for fit. Normally the only thing you may need to do is to drill (1/16" bit) out the original staple penetrations in the skirt.

For Baltimore, K.C., and Pontiac Plants

Position the new shield in the recessed area of the skirt. Using the existing holes as your guide, push the hat pin trough the new shield. Do the two holes for one staple. (I like to start in the center as it cuts my chance of error in half.) Using the 1/16" bit, drill out the two pin holes. Re-position the shield and push the new staple up through the rubber and then through the skirt. While applying pressure to the spine of the staple using the nose of the regular pliers, use the needle nose pliers to bend in a rounded motion each leg of the staple. The goal is to have the same appearance of a staple that is used to secure paper, with a rounded effect. The first staple is the toughest, but once in will help hold the shield in place for the remaining installations. Resume the installation, alternating back-and forth. Finish the installation to the rear of the skirt.

However, leave a couple of staples out at the front of the skirt.

Install the rectangular shield used above the frame. Start in the middle and work forward. Determine how much overlap exists between the two shields. In these areas the staples will need to penetrate both shields.
There will be some areas where only one leg of the staple penetrated the skirt. You will have to decide whether to drill the matching hole, or just install the one leg of the staple. In some instances, one leg will be properly bent over the skirt, and the second leg bent over only the shield.

Fremont

In their infinite wisdom, the Fremont plant decided to reverse the direction of the installed staple. In my opinion this method is less secure then the previous method as the staples are more prone to pull through in rubber than metal.
Everything is similar to above except you should wrap a couple of layers of protective masking tape over the nose of the regular pliers. These pliers will be used to hold the spine of the staple against the finished painted surface of the skirt.

Installed Skirts

When the skirts/fenders are already mounted to the car (and the engine is in place) this becomes a two person endeavor. Choose someone who is careful, patient and won't get nosebleeds when inverted.
Remove one wheel and lower the car to a comfortable position. Provide jack stands for safety, and provide lots of blankets to protect the fender. With one person inside the skirt holding the spine of the staple, the 'lucky' person above will be bent over bending the staples, following the process outlined above. When mounted the installation of the rearmost shield will not be possible.
When finished, use a Q-tip to apply oil to the staples.

jtea64

I believe that whoever installed this replacement shield did not round the staples as would have been done at the factory. Rounding the legs of the staple will provide the gap needed so that the legs do not overlap.
You mention that this is a Fremont car. While I have seen an extremely small percentage of Fremont built cars, all Fremont cars that I have seen have the staples inverted. The photo you show has the staples installed as if the car was made at one of the three other plants. I am always aware that exceptions are possible and am curious if this is one. One way to tell is to observe the original staple holes in the skirt - if still original. The resulting bulge at the staple hole will determine the direction of staple impact.

[wbnapier]

I had to drill out the original staple holes in the inner fender a tiny bit, drill matching holes in the new rubber seal, insert new staples, and try to fold the back of the new staples over to secure it. The staples are heavy duty and it isn't easy. You need pliers, punch, etc...

Really a bitch. It kills the back going from the wheel well back and forth to the engine bay, sweating and cursing along.

[Rich-Tripower]

Our July 64 car never had any evidence of having had these attached (no staple holes in the metal). Does this seem odd? The car had the rubber shields over the a-arms, but not those in front.

[60sstuff]

Originally Posted by 72pontiac

does someone make the seal that staples to front fender well and sits on top of frame rail. in front of control arms up to the core support.

I’m certain this is called a “FILLER, Skirt to Frame-Front”.

The “inner fender skirts” on my early 65 has these rubber fillers stapled near the bottom just above the frame horns.
They lead into the fillers that are above the upper A-arms.

I have dealt with these brutal staples in the past - they are a bitch.
I was able to gently pry open the OEM staples and reuse. Only broke a few.

I think these lower fillers were only used on 64 and most of 65.

Chris.

[Peter Serio]

I believe that GM used an industrial pneumatic stapler at the factory. That wire was strong steel and the tool cut the sections as it fed them thru. The sharp ends actually punched holes in the steel fender liner and the rubber and folded the staple over. Must have been a powerful tool!