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#1
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Trunk floor pans
So iI am finally picking up on my GTo project. One of the bigger things on the to do list is the trunk floor. You can see straight through it to the ground currently and over the gas tank some welded a flat piece of steel but underneath that it is undoubtably as bad as the rest of the trunk floor.
So Ive been looking at replacement trunk floor pans. Summit sells Sherman parts, what I'm wondering is how do they compare to the pans Ames sells and for those who have used one or the other, how did they work out for you?
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1968 - Pontiac GTO |
#2
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Per an old PY catalog any sheet metal that is EDP coated is offshore produced. The big offshore producers are Golden Star (GS) and Dynacorn so anything you buy is going to be pretty much the same. Call AMES and see what brand they sell-these parts are usually drop shipped.
I ordered a GS three piece trunk floor from JEGS for my 64 GTO. All came in the same box from the GS distribution center, and one piece had the GS part number & label and the other two had a Goodmark label (identical except for the color), so Goodmark gets is parts from GS, as probably do other vendors. The exception appears to be AMD sheet metal which reportedly has control over the tooling. The main thing to look for is that the stamping lines/creases match to the OEM. The GS matched right up the original. Hopefully others will post with other “brands” experiences. |
#3
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I bought the Ames 1 piece trunk floor for my 66 GTO, not installed yet, but looks very nice with correct drain holes and correct curved outer rear edge that butts up to the tail panel. I'm not aware of any repro sheet metal that is stamped in the USA. As a side note, I installed a GoodMark radiator support in my 66 chevy II, it fit great, like a GM assembly line part would. I THINK that AMD ended up buying the GOODMARK dies, but I could be wrong. I just had an AMD roof skin installed on my 66 and it also was a really good fit
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#4
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Quote:
Don’t know who owns what these days when it comes to stamping/tooling other than AMD reportedly controls the tooling gets good product reviews. I did notice the OP is in the Netherlands…what is the shipping cost???? Pics of the difference in labels referenced in my previous post. |
#5
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It's been 10+ years so the quality and dies may be different now, but I installed the 3 piece kit from Ames. They fit reasonably well, but took a decent bit of massaging to crisp up and align the the ribs in the reproductions to my car. I didn't get them perfect but the splatter paint hides a lot.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#6
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I did the one piece pan for my '68. A lot less welding than the 3 piece requires and I highly recommend it. Fit was near perfect. One of the best repop items I have bought.
Can't remember who I got it from now but I'm almost certain it was Tamraz.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#7
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If the 1 piece was available when I did mine, I would have gone that way. Seems like way less effort and welding.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#8
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Does that one piece come with the gas tank pieces welded to it.....you know ,the metal pieces that the gas tank straps mount to ?
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#9
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It came with everything the original had with the exception...I THINK..it's been a few years..the exception being the small, L-shaped piece that the jack butts up against.
I transferred it from my original pan as I recall. It DID include in a separate bag the two piece floating bracket for the spare hold-down.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#10
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Quote:
It sucks but they just don't make this stuff here..
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1968 - Pontiac GTO |
#11
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Thanks for all the replies everyone, helped a lot. I need to go look at my car but I'm fairly sure I will need all 4 braces and 3 trunk panels. I won't use the 1 piece and I do not want to separate the body from the frame to get it into place.
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1968 - Pontiac GTO |
#12
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Not trying to talk you into what you don't want to do but just for future reference in case someone is researching the topic, I did have to remove the rear body bushings but only had to loosen the fronts. You only have to lift the rear of the body about 1 foot. You can do it with a floorjack and two jackstands.
The pan slips in from the rear at that point. Not hard to do if the bolts are in decent shape. Removing the old one is where the work is. After that, installing the one-piece was a breeze. All needed brackets already in place with factory spot welds.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 08-14-2018 at 03:24 PM. |
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