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#1
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Drag race brakes on 72 catalina
question.....If I lathe down a 72 B body spindle to A body inner and outer bearing size,can I put A body race brakes on and will the caliper mount be in the correct place? I've been told by a Impala guy that it will.Before I buy a $700 front brake setup,I want to be sure. Wheel bolt pattern not a concern to me.Already have TRZ tubular arms that are set up for coil overs.I don't have access to a A body car to do the measurements.Help would be appreciated.Thanks
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#2
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The stock brakes were pretty decent, what are your intentions with the car?
If you do need more braking power, I see Wilwood offers a bolt in kit to fit a 1972 B body. Another thought is looking into big brake kits for a 1994-1996 Chevy Impala SS...I've heard that some suspension parts for those cars will work on 1971-1976 B body GM cars (chassis parts were a lot more universal across the different GM big car brands by then). I have no personal experience, so this is just a suggestion...it may be worth finding out if the brakes can be used, or at least adapted without much effort. |
#3
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My intentions are to drag race and some street driving.want a light weight drag race style kit.hub,hat,rotor and caliper.
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#4
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Quote:
What do you think you can get the weight down to? IMHO, that’s a lot of car to do much street driving with a “drag style “ brake system. Don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze but good luck with your project! I always thought a hot big car would be a fun sleeper. Murf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#5
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Bout 3900 with these mods.still full interior with rollbar
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The Following User Says Thank You to oethel For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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Damn, that’s pretty good. Do you know what it was when you started & what have you done to it? Thanks Murf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#7
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If i remember correctly this car was 4240.I removed all bracing behind the bumpers[and it was a lot],modified and lightened bumper brackets.car has a fuel cell now so no fuel tank,aluminum radiator,made my own trans crossmember out 1x2 steel tubing,chrome moly driveshaft,aluminum center section in a 9in Ford rear end,took the crash bar bracing out of the doors.the hood is just a skin and no bracing.car has new carpet with no jute under it.superlight sander wheels.dont have the front wheels on yet,need to finish front suspension and brakes.still has the original block and heads.alluminum heads would take some more weight off.I've added the rollbar, a 55lb turbo,4in thick intercooler and all piping for both.if this car was normally aspirated with aluminum heads it could be 3800lbs
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#8
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I like fast big cars. I'm building a 1977 Cadillac Coupe deville(Stage 2 Buick powered)
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#9
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Yeah, keep us updated. Sounds very cool!
Murf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#10
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FYI - Drag rotors will warp all to hell on the street.
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#11
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Another vote for retaining the stock brakes.
I'm going high nines/low tens at 136mph with a mostly raced/some street '74 Chevelle, at 3950 lbs. No issues with the brakes. K
__________________
'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
#12
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I prefer the quality of a Strange or Wilwood over the "2 Ton" OEM, cRock Auto parts when it comes to drag racing. People going faster than 12's that believe OEM brakes are fine, never had to pick their spot between the trees at the end of a track. All vendors offering brakes for racing offer a braking system that does double duty for street use and none of them recommend using dedicated "Race Only" brakes for the street.
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