[HWYSTR455]

Don't forget that as the check ball starts to lift off the seat, there's a dip in oil psi. And that is usually around 2000-2500 rpm.

I don't care what oil filter brand you run or prefer, always change the filter when there is a psi concern, especially after an oil & filter change.



.

[GOAT8U2]

Update, Blackstone Laboratories oil results

Not looking good, Copper way too high. Even they think there's a ton of metal in the oil, about 600 miles from the last oil change.

Way to much back story to get into, but I'll just say, sometimes you can't buy your way to happiness. $16k engine acting like 160k Mile engine, unreal and I'll have to navigate a bleak future with my investment getting screwed from the start, 0 miles.

[Sirrotica]

Not what you'd want to see in a recently rebuilt engine.

Have you cut the filter open yet to see what's in it?

I hope that the company/shop that did the work is willing to stand behind it.

I hate to see this happen, things like this are why people give up on their old cars, and sell them as projects, needing a new owner.

[chiphead]

To me, the analysis looks like the bearings are going away. Iron and copper tell me the bearings and cam/crank surfaces are showing up in the oil. I'd pull it, those results along with the low pressures, looks like it's hurt

[HWYSTR455]

Who built the engine or did the machine work?


.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by GOAT8U2

Update, Blackstone Laboratories oil results

Not looking good, Copper way too high. Even they think there's a ton of metal in the oil, about 600 miles from the last oil change.

Way to much back story to get into, but I'll just say, sometimes you can't buy your way to happiness. $16k engine acting like 160k Mile engine, unreal and I'll have to navigate a bleak future with my investment getting screwed from the start, 0 miles.

Thst SUCKS!!! Sorry to hear you're having all these issues.

[steve25]

If there’s no odd engine noise then the chances are good that it’s a thrust bearing issue in conjunction with the oil pump check ball being unseated some.

Do not run it any more until the bottom end needs to be inspected.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by GOAT8U2

Update, Blackstone Laboratories oil results

Not looking good, Copper way too high. Even they think there's a ton of metal in the oil, about 600 miles from the last oil change.

Way to much back story to get into, but I'll just say, sometimes you can't buy your way to happiness. $16k engine acting like 160k Mile engine, unreal and I'll have to navigate a bleak future with my investment getting screwed from the start, 0 miles.

Even for a first test the copper is way too high. I wonder what your filter element looks like.

[GOAT8U2]

I'm not mentioning any shop names, partially because I believe these individuals aren't trying to do any harm, just human errors both time that were not done in malice but were done on their end.

I also believe that most people will do the right thing if you logically state your case and give them the environment to do it in vs a hostile one. Believe me, I don't think most people would be so silent about this whole situation if they knew my start to finish full story. Money isn't the only factor, either is time, this is a legacy build if that makes any sense, that adds to this disaster even more. But let's be clear, money and time matter too and this is getting old. I only drive the car 1000 miles tops a year, it's Fn May again and here I am, not driving a car that's got $50k in it since 2021. I run into this so often I know friends and family wonder why I'm still into these cars so much.

But if needed later on I'll go into full detail because if my positive attitude and patience have been taken for granted and I feel suckered etc, then that changes the dynamic. Believe me, if anyone local here with $ heard and read this horror story, over many years of my vigilant marketing it with the skills, focus and determination I have, this is potentially a 7 figure, future $ F over in revenue. No one would even consider having either touch their cars, no more waiting lists, thinned out weekly work, big building hemorrhages savings, then you must move to a smaller building or consider selling and changing the name. Only those customers who didn't hear about all this would consider still going and that'll be hard if I'm disrespected after all this and do my thing.

The option is easy...
In their one hand they might only need $2-4k to fix this because the doctor didn't completely heal baby Goatie after they dropped him on his head right out of the nursery. They did what the doctor ordered but baby Goatie still has lingering issues, most complete the healing.
Or
In their other hand is a giant pile of future cash you'd be insane to dare me to light on fire for you, when you clearly created this issue and it's not over.

I won't get into the full details yet but I did just erase a bunch of it because it's just not the right time.

I think there's a way forward peacefully, but my investment has been drastically diminished and that has to be a factor when moving forwards with these cars in general.

This whole classic car industry is coming off a huge peak, but moving forwards with electric cars, thinning workforce and more people like me who will now reconsider doing any future restorations vs buying an electric car because I'll never hear...

The shop or the machine shop made an error, you're screwed.
That sounds nice right now.

I had a $50k restoration on another car planned, I'm probably gonna pass, 2 of these is way to much and a 3rd is just asking for more life drama for no reason when electrics eliminate more human error issues to deal with. Less parts and especially engine parts equals efficiency in possible human error.

[GOAT8U2]

I might still have the filter cut open but I think we all know what's in there, an episode of
"The Curse Of Goat Island".

Paul K, unfortunately even if you were able to get me in and do my engine, this would've been its fate, this is all from the initial detonating dyno tuning. You saved yourself the headache.

Though there's 2 options I'm pondering, short block 2 or go 1A2 but that's scary after all this.

[wakesupremo]

This is such a sad story but, in my experience, not uncommon. I have spent £££ thousands with different, well known and respected, engine builders in UK, all to be failed engines with no come back. I have always bought the best products that I could afford and the machinists have ruined them. I have had a friend, not a well known engine builder, but a very methodic man put this last one together. Yes it has cost me in excess of £25000.00 but the results are there at the moment. 11.40 @ 122 mph in a full street trim '69 firebird convertible on M/T ET streets best, but consistent 11.6's @ 117 mph. I am in no way a rich man by any means. A normal working man but my car is a labour of love. If this one fails I'm done.

[steve25]

Just be prepared for the possibility that when the pan comes off, and should it be found that the transmission side of the thrust bearing is chewed up that your engine builder is not responsible, it was done in with a problem of your automatic trans

I am more hoping that a rod Bearing issue is found because that crankshaft mess can be cleaned up with a regrind, a cranks thrust surface getting chewed up can be a complete disaster in terms of reusing it.

[chiphead]

If it was only a rod bearing making that much metal, it would sound like a treeful of drunk keebler elves hammering away.

It sounds like you're leaving a lot of the story out. Unfortunately that leads to a lot of lingering problems and sunk cost. My advise is to send the motor to a totally different shop. A shop gets 1 chance to screw up my work. If they fubar the first build, I sell off what I can and start over somewhere else. One one job, I went through 4 shops before I found somebody that could properly machine a early 60s chevy 6 cylinder. You would think that's an easy one to get right, but you'd be surprised.

If a shop had 2 cracks at fixing it and it's still wrong, they're dead to me. Pull it and find a new shop.

[dataway]

I think automobile engine machine shops are a rapidly dying business. In the 60's and 70's when engines only lasted 100k miles lots of them got rebuilt. Today with modern engines that go 200-300k miles there is little need to rebuild them as the vehicle will be junk by that time anyway. The restoration and modification sector is tiny compared to the overall car market.

There are still plenty of industrial engine rebuilders but few of them have the knowledge to machine auto engines, and many industrial engines are designed to be rebuilt and have replaceable sleeves and the like.

Add to this the fact that very few young people care to get trained for machine shop work and we are rapidly heading towards a "use and throw away" system when it comes to automobiles.

[chiphead]

That's what I've seen over the last 20 years. Most of the machine shops are optimized to rebuilding diesels in big trucks and construction equipment. Automotive work is a fill-in when the local fleets aren't down. I follow a local shop on FB, and most of their content is rebuilding big diesels.

I had a LS crankshaft balanced at a local shop back in 2015. They welded a pipe plug in a counterweight to balance. It's got 83K on it now but man, that raised an eyebrow when I picked it up. The guy goes "its cheaper than mallory metal". Uh, OK dude..
It was a low dollar truck build. Mental note, don't have them balance high dollar motors.

[GOAT8U2]

I hope it's not a trans issue or pressure and ballooning, new 10" PTC, cars never had any high stall launches and only 1x have I even been WOT through 1st gear to test the governor tweak. It's that sad, I'm so sick of all the issues I don't even get on it, it's a 600hp cruiser now.

Machine shop had to rebuild their engine due to the other shop tuning error. The first rebuild wasn't due to the machine shop.

I'm going in next week, maybe I'll drive it by July.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

Starting cars up in the winter is a waste of time, put them to bed, and start them back up in the spring...

Thank you. Saved me a bunch of typing.

If you're going to store an engine...STORE IT, don't make the poor thing fire up and run in the worst conditions.

Some oils are better than others at clinging to metal parts during periods of non-use. Amsoil has advertised that.

[GOAT8U2]

Shop cut the filter, loaded with bearings. I knew this but now they all do too.

The fun starts, machine shop won't guarantee a blueprint on the 3rd build and acknowledge that as an option so I'm going to a local shop to do this inspection. I would've gone to Paul but he's in Texas now. I'm tempted to just get another short block because I know 2023 is toast too, just like 2021.

This is probably going get messy because the initial blow up is still killing my investment and time, I'm prepared to go deep if needed since there's statements not honored and if I see proof of being railed, then Rambo will come to cleanse the unethical from the planet.

[i82much]

can you get away with just a rehone, ring and bearing job? i did this on my 505 after numerous failures from the first builder. Second shop reused pistons, rehoned, new bearings, engine runs great. Wasn't overly expensive.

[78w72]

Just now seeing this thread, hope the OP can get his issue resolved.

I wanted to comment on the 20/50 article, I agree with that 100%. Been saying that on here since day 1 that 20/50 is not needed or beneficial to a engine built to normal street specs/clearances. Oil is intended to reduce wear & friction but just as important is its ability to flow freely & cool internal engine parts, too tick of an oil cant do that as well as a proper weight for the engine specs oil whether cold or hot. These cars called for 10/30 or 10/40 oil & 99% of rebuilt street engines use the same type of clearances.

Its been said that some 20/50 synthetic oils cold pour as good as thinner conventional oils... but that is just one part of it, cold pour tests are done at below freezing temps which none or very few of these classic engines ever see those temps. So the other half of the numbers are the hot 50 number, when hot it acts like a 50 weight oil, way too thick for a street engine. Oil looks "watery" thin when hot but that doesnt mean it flows through tight clearances like water, the weight is related to the pumpability of the oil, a thick oil doesnt flow or pump as good as a thin weight oil when cold or hot. No benefit to using 20/50 in a street engine just the same as no benefit or need to use a race oil in a stock to mild cam engine.

I also like shaeffers oil, gets excellent new analysis for additives, I have a bunch of the EP oil treatment bottles too but havent used them in my cars yet, but add a little to small engines just like the lucas treatment. The shaeffers additive has a anti wear additive not popular in most other oils called "antimony" thats part of their patented "micon-moly" additive, not sure of all the details of it but what ive read on bobs oil site says its a very good AW & extreme pressure additive & not many oils use it. Shaeffers is a high quality oil but not very popular or easy to find at local auto stores.