[mgarblik]

The only thing I didn't see mentioned is the bellhousing. I find it much easier to install and get everything situated without the bellhousing on the engine. It WILL go in with it attached, but it is much tighter fitting in at the rear and yoiu will probably scrape some paint off in the tunnel area. Up to you, but I like to pop the 6 bolts in from underneath once the engine is in. I do install the flywheel and align the clutch before the engine goes in, just not the bellhousing. Good luck today.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

The only thing I didn't see mentioned is the bellhousing. I find it much easier to install and get everything situated without the bellhousing on the engine. It WILL go in with it attached, but it is much tighter fitting in at the rear and yoiu will probably scrape some paint off in the tunnel area. Up to you, but I like to pop the 6 bolts in from underneath once the engine is in. I do install the flywheel and align the clutch before the engine goes in, just not the bellhousing. Good luck today.

Mike, thats what i finally did after the 3rd try with not going in..........only took a few minutes under the car and had that bolted in.

Finally figured out why this was a pita with the headers, in 2010 i got the motor in pretty quick with the same headers............but i just remembered i had stock lower control arms on the car............now i have the tubular ones from umi..........only took me 3 hrs to figure that out..........lol

Rich

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by steve25

Rich, if you have a good sharp pair of sheet metal sheers do this .
Bolt the headers up with all the bolts, but let it dangle off of them.

Next cut your header gaskets into 3 sections , each end port and the center.
Next cut slots for each bolt out of each gasket section .
This will allow you to rock the header and drop in each gasket section from the top.

This method also helps with relieving sheering forces induced by the motor rocking and the exh system trying to keep it from doing such.
This action leads to torn header gaskets .

Steve, that is the plan.............the cutting in 3 will be easy...............those bolt holes on the remflex look really tough to cut..............was using a razor blade, cuts pretty good but had to get a straight line without stuff falling apart...........that will be todays project.

I have a set of dougs headers gaskets also................i figured i would be screwing something up while doing this.

Rich

[GTOLou]

Originally Posted by roy381

I just did this with my 67. Both headers and starter off and oil adapter on. I am using Dougs Dports. Starter on before header go on.

Good luck to ya!

Doug's are high quality headers - I've not had trouble getting Doug's in after the motor is in and bolts in the M mounts. Now, you may have to jack the car up high to get them in. I think (??) my motor installs have been 2nd gen TA's, 69 gto, 2nd gen camaro, and first gen Fbirds. I've NOT done a 65-67 gto, but dang, looks like a lot or room there. I do have a lift now. Almost always use Doug's. Just good quality/fit headers.

And yes, starter, oil filter housing and clutch countershaft may need off.

[Sirrotica]

To assure you don't have header leaks at the head I always use high temp RTV on the gasket surfaces around each port. Apply a thin film, let it skin over for 15-20 minutes. Tighten the header bolts, then re torque them after a few heat cycles.

Since I started using RTV, I have had zero leaks at the head surfaces. One set has been on since 1988, I'd say that is pretty proof positive that it works.

[gtorich]

Thanks guys, got the remflex on.............pita, i gotta make up some tools, turning those nuts.................instructions say 20lbs torque to crush gaskets,..........lol......im using a stubby 3/8 wrench so what would you guys guess is near 20lbs...............i got them pretty snug now, say another 1/2 turn.........or less.

Rich

[Gach]

Yeah I’d say 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

[steve25]

When you get tired enough of the fighting cursing and the bloody nuckles of trying to tighten the rear center header bolts as I did you can bend up a special open end or box wrench as many of us have to get the job done.

I picked up two cheap long ones which gave me enough length to heat it up and put some bends it it.
I made one for each side since the bends needed where a little different and they are one of my most cherished tools even though I may only use them every 4 years.

[Gach]

When I was putting motor back together I ended up with missing header bolts, that had 3/8 heads, only thing I could fine was a set for BBC. But the heads were allot smaller what ever next size down from 3/8 is…. god I was amazed how much easier it was to get wrench in. No 1/8 turns full 1/4” turns. Who knew right. Like it so much better I ordered another set.

[Dragncar]

These cure the dreaded center rear header bolts.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFQ35O...roduct_details

5/16 head, 8740 material and 1" long. You can even get the box end on. 21 $ Just make sure you use Never Seize.

I actually use 3 different header bolts. I use 1" long regular grade 8 on the 4 corners. You can get a 9/16 wrench on with ease and always better off with a bigger head.
I use the 5/16 heads on the center rear and 3/8 hex head everywhere else.
Never ever use the grade 5 7/16 head bolts. Especially on iron heads. Had a real problem once. Had to heat the ear of my HO head orange to get one out.
You must take more care on the bolts where the exhaust ear is open,. You can see the end of the threaded hole. Those can corrode and if you have iron heads its a good idea to use a ARP SS bolt in those locations. Again, Never Seize.
The 4 corners all are blind holes and you never have a problem with those. Thats where I use a regular grade 8 bolt.

[ZeGermanHam]

My approach for installing everything in my '66 was to lower the engine (without starter or oil filter adapter) onto the mounts and install the bolt on the passenger side mount only. Then slide the driver side header into place from underneath the car and get most of the header bolts started, then use the hoist to raise and pivot the engine up on the driver side only (note: driver side motor mount bolt still is not installed) which provides much better access to the rearward center header flange bolt. Once all header flange bolts are tight on the driver side, lower the engine back down onto the mount and finally install the driver side motor mount bolt. Install starter.

Next, slide the passenger side header up into place from underneath and install the hardware. Don't need to raise this side of the engine because there's no steering column in the way. Then install the oil filter adapter and filter.

This was in my '66 GTO with TH400 and Doug's D-port headers with 1-3/4" primaries (p/n D564). It was quite easy once I figured out to raise the driver side of the engine with the hoist to get around the steering column.

Lowering an engine onto a set of headers that are already laying in the engine bay is a great way to dent and scratch your headers, IMO.