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#261
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The instructions were very good in showing how to wire the system and which harnesses went to each subsystem. Take your time and you'll both be fine.
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#262
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Have been spending time lately tending to odds and ends. I had to buy a different console top because the previous owner of my car butchered the existing one to install a Hurst V-Matic shifter. The donor top which I bought from Facebook marketplace is ok for now, but very far from perfect. The seller didn't do as good of a job of describing/showing its condition as I would have liked. It has plenty of pitting needs to be professionally reconditioned and re-chromed. That's big bucks, so I decided to clean it up and repaint it as best I can for the time being. I don't want it to keep me getting the car back on the road, so it will be temporarily less than perfect. I wish new console tops water available for the auto trans cars... The good news is that I will be able to use it in conjunction with my new Hurst Pro-Matic 2 shifter and conceal it rather nicely using the stock shifter plate.
Also have been revisiting the emblems, some of which can be reused. They aren't totally perfect, but pretty darn good, especially when not looking at them through a magnifying glass. All told, not too difficult to strip the old paint off and repaint.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild Last edited by ZeGermanHam; 06-01-2021 at 03:43 PM. |
#263
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The emblem work is pretty damn good!
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#264
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Those turned out extremely well! Now I have some motivation for my '65!
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#265
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Thank you! No doubt, it's tedious work. Painting the emblems is pretty easy, though. Redoing the console lid took some time, 95% of which was carefully taping everything off. I just put on some music and got into a groove.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#266
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Excellent work on the console. I bought one from the classifieds here. I had high hopes for it but it turned out to be, l think, an absolutely useless piece of crap. Seems way more pitted than what you started with there.. l mean as in cheese grater rough...but after seeing yours I may have to take another look at it.
Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 06-02-2021 at 09:15 AM. |
#267
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Quote:
I figure I'll just use this console top for a little while, get some miles on the car and shake out any bugs, etc., then go back on the hunt for a console top in better shape, or have mine professionally restored.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#268
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Painting that console...reminds me of painting Mickey Thompson valve covers. No tape needed.....just spray the whole thing...let it set a. Week...then take some 320 grit paper on a sanding block and sand the high spot on the ribs...comes out beautiful !
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#269
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That approach works for the M/T valve covers, but I think you'd end up sanding right through the chrome of the console top.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#270
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Would 0000 steel wool work?
How did you get the emblem's paint lines so sharp? |
#271
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I tried some 0000 steel wool on the console. It removed some very minor imperfections, but it was nowhere near enough to do anything with the pits. The issue with the pits is that the chrome coating has actually bubbled up and it then flakes off. So you're just left with a bare metal (i.e., un-chromed) surface underneath.
For the emblem, I applied the paint with a very tiny paint brush and also a syringe. You can get them from just about any art supply or hobby store. For the "6.5 LITRE" text, I just filled the letters in with the syringe and then wiped away any excess paint (once dry) with shop towel that was very slightly dampened with lacquer thinner.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#272
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The tail light housings on the 64 are similar. When I was getting rid of the chrome blisters/bubbles I used this nice little round burr. The burr is made for a dremel tool - but I was just doing it by hand. This made it easy to get through the bubble and the black bad metal to shiny good stuff.
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#273
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Wild Cat, what did you do about any blisters that may have been present on the raised fins? If you took them off you'd have to re-chrome, right?
It appears that all of your bad spots were fortunately down in the grooves? Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#274
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FWIW the 66 and 67 front fenders interchange but the lip on the inside of the headlights is slightly different
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#275
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Quote:
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The Following User Says Thank You to 1_Wild_Cat For This Useful Post: | ||
#276
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Console
I sanded in the grooves with a 4 1/2 grinder cutting disc by hand, painted the whole thing black and razor bladed off the chrome ribs when the paint was just a little less than tacky. I feel that it came out pretty well considering.
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#277
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Small update for the 4th of July. I received a few photos of the body from the painter. The body has been taken apart again and fully cleaned. He mentioned that they did some sort of acid wash to fully neutralize any surface rust. Once that was all cleaned up he got it sealed. Now he is moving onto leveling. This bodywork photos are older and just show the sealer primer, though. Also check out the paint sample card. Looks good to me!
I also finally received my new Holley Sniper EFI fuel tank and pump, but I'm still waiting on my exhaust system w/manifolds and engine pulleys from RARE, which have been on backorder since April. The supply chain is making life difficult right now, for sure. On my end, I finally got the dash squared away. It's a new dash bezel, new in-dash tach (I'm excited to have that), new headlight switch, ignition switch, and cigar lighter, but original primary gauges. The dash bezel took a little but of finessing to get set up. One of the mounting posts for the gauges was about 3/16" too long, which prevented the gauges from laying flat one the bezel. Also, one of the pre-marked lines for cutting the A/C opening was a little off and needed to be opened up a bit. Both issues were easy enough to remedy. For the walnut veneer, I applied three coats of Minwax wipe-on polyurethane, which goes on very thin. It resulted in somewhat of a satin finish, which I'm happy with. I also reset the odometer to zero, since the car had been driven for decades with the speedometer and odometer wildly off due to the previous owner installing 3:91 gears without changing the speedo gear in the trans. The car is being reborn anyway, so I figure why not.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild Last edited by ZeGermanHam; 07-04-2021 at 06:03 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to ZeGermanHam For This Useful Post: | ||
#278
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Quote:
I am a little confused about the order of your gauges, I always thought the order (left to right) was fuel/bat, speed o, tach, water/oil?
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Fort Worth/Dallas TX area 1966 GTO Fontaine Blue 389 CID Carter AFB Muncie 4 speed (orginally an automatic car) |
#279
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Quote:
As for the walnut veneer, the photo is a little deceiving. It's a little darker in real life than it appears in the photo. Either way, I'm sure yours will come out nicely. Take your time and have fun getting there! One bit of advice I'll offer... Don't rely entirely on the adhesive backing of the veneer when attaching it to the dash bezel. I recommend using a little bit of JB Weld PlasticWeld epoxy in areas where the veneer won't otherwise be held down by other things (e.g., switch bezels). I added epoxy between the gauge pods, in the corners, and a few other spots. I don't think the adhesive backing that comes on the veneer will be enough to stay stuck to the dash in the long run.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild Last edited by ZeGermanHam; 07-05-2021 at 12:50 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to ZeGermanHam For This Useful Post: | ||
#280
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Spent a little time tonight cleaning up various exterior items tonight, including the front parking lamps. They cleaned up pretty nicely, with the exception being the cone reflector that shields the bulb. They both look past their prime, and have some surface irregularities that almost make them look as if they're wrapped in foil. It doesn't appear that Ames sells these cones as separate items. Anyone know if they are produced anywhere?
Also cleaned up my headlight bezels as best I could. One is in pretty good shape, and the other has some slight pitting. So I called my local metal plating company, who wanted between $700-1000 to re-chrome the bezels... Ouch. I'm going to think about it...
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
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