[darbikrash]

Originally Posted by T/A addict

Great info at the right time. I'm also putting a Sniper setup in a 2nd gen T/A and was just fixing to ask about tanks. I was going to order the Sniper tank at almost 600$ but thought I'd look for input first. Glad I did.

Woa.... Just looked at Aero website and checked pricing 500 for the tank, ok but 280 for shipping ugh

Order from Summit- free shipping.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by wh33lman

My experience with the Tanks Inc. and Walbro 400 pump and Tanks Inc. sending unit in my '81 TA...
The Tank is good quality.
3 issues however..

The range of the sending unit's float arm is very short as the tank is not very deep. Guage is moving all over the place and therefore you cannot trust it.

The 6AN connectors are rubbing on the trunk floor once Tank is completely installed. This results in the filler neck and cap sitting a bit high. BFH required.

Filler neck connects to tank with a rubber sleeve and hose clamps. This loosens over time, so be sure to position clamps so you can tighten without having to drop tank.

Curious....What car? I use -8 (1/2") AN connectors on all my installs and have never had issues with them hitting the floor. The tanks are sumped at the pump mounting area just for this reason.

Also there are other a few other options for sending units, I'll see if I can find the link to some of the more popular ones.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by wh33lman

My experience with the Tanks Inc. and Walbro 400 pump and Tanks Inc. sending unit in my '81 TA...
The Tank is good quality.
3 issues however..

The range of the sending unit's float arm is very short as the tank is not very deep. Guage is moving all over the place and therefore you cannot trust it.

The 6AN connectors are rubbing on the trunk floor once Tank is completely installed. This results in the filler neck and cap sitting a bit high. BFH required.

Filler neck connects to tank with a rubber sleeve and hose clamps. This loosens over time, so be sure to position clamps so you can tighten without having to drop tank.

Yeah, noticed the AN fitting issue on the Tanks Inc tanks, the solution is to add extenders. To my knowledge, this issue is only when you use AN -8 fittings.

The sender range, that too is what I was trying to explain, and the reason is that dang stupid big ball at the end. With that SW or Classic Instruments sender, with the rectangular flat float, you get a much better range, and more granularity. On the 442, the float arm with the ball float was like 2.5 inches. The square one was at least twice that length, if not more. The only thing with the flat rectangular float is that it spins, and it can sometimes stand straight up and down, reducing the travel. You think you're at a 1/4 tank, jam on the brakes at a light, it flips flat from fuel slosh, and then it's down to like an 1/8 of a tank (panic sets in).

I don't like the fuel neck thing either, but those are the breaks. Pretty sure they do that so either they can ship it more flat (doesn't get bent), or so they can fit more vehicles.

On the Aeromotive AN -6 fittings for the pump assembly, if you use the Aeromotive 'tapered' AN fittings, you can run an AN -8 end, and it will flow as much as using a regular, non-tapered AN -8 fitting. I spent hours on the phone on that one, and a bunch of homework. Look at the cross section of those fittings on the Aeromotive site. Think they even have flow charts for them.

..

[Formulajones]

The fuel neck thing isn't a big deal. Matter of fact there are many OEM GM vehicles that use filler neck setups like that without issues.

I kind of like it myself. My experience with full neck aftermarket tanks is hit and miss as some of them don't have the necks positioned exactly right and once the tank is installed the neck is either too far down or too far up making it a pain at the pump. So I end up heating the solder and moving the necks until I'm happy.

Just one of those extra step things to make it work when it comes to aftermarket stuff.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

On the Aeromotive AN -6 fittings for the pump assembly, if you use the Aeromotive 'tapered' AN fittings, you can run an AN -8 end, and it will flow as much as using a regular, non-tapered AN -8 fitting. I spent hours on the phone on that one, and a bunch of homework. Look at the cross section of those fittings on the Aeromotive site. Think they even have flow charts for them.

..

Just not going to do that. I have issues when I'm spending $1,000 on a fuel system with -8 everywhere and then have this bottle neck -6 hookup with short 3/8 tubes at the pump??

May or may not be an issue for some but why compromise.

I suspect Aeromotive will come out with a -8 setup in the future. If not I'd rather they just leave the fittings and tubes off and I'll plumb my own.

[HWYSTR455]

Here ya go:

https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/produc...-port-adapter/

"All Aeromotive ORB Port Fittings have an engineered, longer radii on the port side producing incredibly smooth flow transitions from the line into the port and back out again. Thanks to an overall larger bore, Aeromotive port fittings present more flow area and create less flow restriction and cavitiation than any other port fittings on the market."

Although the attached pic is of 2 AN -8 fittings, you can see the opening of the ORB one is much larger than the 'standard' AN -8 fitting. The -6 ORB to -8 male has the same basic flare inside, allowing it to flow full -8 volume.

.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Just not going to do that. I have issues when I'm spending $1,000 on a fuel system with -8 everywhere and then have this bottle neck -6 hookup with short 3/8 tubes at the pump??

May or may not be an issue for some but why compromise.

I suspect Aeromotive will come out with a -8 setup in the future. If not I'd rather they just leave the fittings and tubes off and I'll plumb my own.

If you look towards the end of my fuel system install thread, you will see the inside diameter of the NTP and tubes are 1/2". (.80 to be exact)

(post #53)

http://www.forums.maxperformanceinc....install&page=2

Now granted, the flow path is not as good as if it were true, -8 fittings (the extensions), but with a touch more psi, it won't lean out.

I have a 340lph pump assembly from Tanks, if you want, I will mic the inside diameter of the NTPs.

.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

The fuel neck thing isn't a big deal. Matter of fact there are many OEM GM vehicles that use filler neck setups like that without issues.

I kind of like it myself. My experience with full neck aftermarket tanks is hit and miss as some of them don't have the necks positioned exactly right and once the tank is installed the neck is either too far down or too far up making it a pain at the pump. So I end up heating the solder and moving the necks until I'm happy.

Just one of those extra step things to make it work when it comes to aftermarket stuff.

So on the neck thing where they are attached to the tank and are 1 piece, 9 times out of 10, they get bent in shipping, but, all you have to do is bend it back. There's some 'wiggle room' for bending it, but obviously, you don't want to keep bending it a lot, could give it some work-fatigue.

Another member had the issue with the neck not being in the correct location, I suggested he bend it back, and although he was reluctant, he did anyway, and it corrected his issue.

.

[darbikrash]

Curious as to the interest in -8 lines, as -6 line supports ~ 700 HP N/A, or about the capacity of the 340/lph pump. What is the advantage here?

[HWYSTR455]

My original build for the 'bird was a procharged 474, had it all set up and couldn't get a decent bracket setup for reasonable money, so I bailed. But the tank I had was a Rock Valley custom, was going to run AN 10 to the y block, split to -8 for the rails, and -10 back. Fuel system was built to support about 1300+ hp. Had all the tapered fittings the whole way, and big rails.

On the 442, it started as a carb build, so did -8 the whole way, then went to EFI/TBI. But having -8 allows for going either carb or EFI.

Same on the newest project, started as a carb car, had a bunch of fittings already, and other parts, so plumbed it with -8 the whole way. Just gives you flexibility is all, really.

.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by darbikrash

Curious as to the interest in -8 lines, as -6 line supports ~ 700 HP N/A, or about the capacity of the 340/lph pump. What is the advantage here?

Although these are street cars, we do enjoy drag racing them, and from my experience, -6 or 3/8 line really isn't enough to support more than even 500-550 HP. The volume just isn't there, frictional losses, G-forces etc...You have to also take into account the HP numbers they project for pumps are usually free flowing and don't take these things into consideration.

Taking the same car and jumping to -8 line almost always picks up some MPH, and a bit of ET as a result. So when I plumb a car with -8, I make sure everything is -8, and some fittings I drill the inside a bit so there are no bottle necks. Generally when running an external pump you want the pickup in the tank to be even bigger than the feed line (-10 or 5/8) so the pump doesn't have problems sucking, they are better pushers. With an intank pump you eliminate that small feature, but to have -6 on the outside of the pump for feed and return lines is a bit odd considering the HP that pump should support. Personally I just won't do it.

[64speed]

The Aeromotive uses the foam the holley tank uses a badge and trap door

[64speed]

Originally Posted by 64speed

The Aeromotive uses the foam the holley tank uses a badge and trap door

Sump not badge. I don’t know what’s up with my phone

[T/A addict]

Originally Posted by darbikrash

Order from Summit- free shipping.

Excellent.... thanks.

Ok so I buy the fuel tank and the Sniper. What other items will I need? Replace fuel lines? If so what are the recommendations? Trying to get a general shopping list together.
It will be going in my 79 T/A, 400 with more of a pro touring suspension. I don't take it drag racing.

[leeklm]

Originally Posted by T/A addict

Excellent.... thanks.



Ok so I buy the fuel tank and the Sniper. What other items will I need? Replace fuel lines? If so what are the recommendations? Trying to get a general shopping list together.

It will be going in my 79 T/A, 400 with more of a pro touring suspension. I don't take it drag racing.

The big thing will be to figure out fuel lines and fittings. Good news is that summit has a liberal return policy. Try to avoid 90 deg fittings or sharp bends, use as much hard line as possible. Use a good pressure regulator, the one from Robb MC has worked well for me.

I used the Tanks system with 240 pump supporting a 590hp (engine dyno) and 3/8 lines following the above guidelines and never "noticed" fuel starvation, and had good ET on the strip. Baffle seems better in Aero tank, but I ran the 73 almost out of gas on the strip, and still ran something like an 11.3 in the 3800lb car. After trailering home, I was taking my son for a quick ride, and literally ran out of gas within 2 miles!! That told me the Tanks baffle was probably doing ok...

On the new 68 build, I looked seriously at the Aero tank with cut corners, as it looked like a very nice piece. Price was about $200 more than the same Tanks setup. Since the Tanks system worked so well in the A body, I went the same route with the 68- and have $200 to put towards the many thousands being spent here if nothing else, I am supporting my neighbors to the south (iowa).

Against some recommendations here, I stayed with 3/8 feed and return line on this car (same motor) for ease of routing, etc. Again, it worked really well on previous car, and these lines are actually shorter on the fbody, so figured it cant be less flow. Worst case is that I learn from the school of hard knocks, and spend that $200 on new 1/2" lines and fittings...

Good luck with your project!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[HWYSTR455]

That's what I do, I buy more fittings than I need, so when actually doing the install I have what I need if it doesn't work exactly as the image in my mind was. When done, send all the unused ones back to Summit, they credit you back in a surprisingly short time.

.

[76TA462]

Received and installed the Aeromotive EFI tank. Great unit, well built and good fit. All the fittings were in it so simply hooked up the lines. Runs quiet. Filler neck was not like the pictures, it was a solid one piece, not the one with the rubber joiner. The car was run just up and down the block and no problems. Once the roads are clear and summer is here, the true testing will happen but so far all good. PS - The Sniper EFI started first turn, looking forward to the summer !!!!

[T/A addict]

Excellent! Congrats! Nothing better than when something works like planned

I ordered the same tank, Q-Jet Sniper, Holley Distributer and matching Hyperspark ignition components.

[76TA462]

I am using 3/8 feed and return lines. Set-ups around here are using 3/8 and no problems reported. To have added confidence I spoke with the Holley tech line a few times. I engine dyno about 540 tq and 530 hp; Holley recommended 3/8 and mentioned if I were approaching 700 hp they would recommend 1/2. That said, swapping to 1/2 at a later point would be easy - with the set-up complete now, the hard part is over. Side note - the engine dyno was done with my old off the shelf carb that likely left power on the table, and the plus 80K miles on the original distributer (getting loose) gave room for improvement, so with better/new fuel delivery and distributor and etc. now, I am sure the seat of the pants dyno will notice a difference - summer can’t come soon enough!

[JC455]

On my Tanks, Inc (who makes the Holley Sniper tanks- it even has Tanks, Inc stamped on it) tank for my 74 Formula, I chose to go with the floatless sending unit-

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd346.htm