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#61
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Just got my quick ratio steering box from Lares
It’s the 10972 model 2 1/2 turns as opposed to the stock 4 turns |
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#62
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Doing some grunt work today that no one likes doing
But needs to be done The cowl and A pillars are solid as a rock especially for a factory AC car No rust at all. Not even pin holes |
#63
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Hi. Just noticing the tunnel stamping. Is this a late build dated car?
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#64
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Yes 3rd week of June 1967
Epoxy primer on crown and firewall today |
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#65
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I fabbed up a rotisserie yesterday with some square tubing and rotated the car today.
Now the fun begins with a wire wheel and lots of patience stripping the underside |
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#66
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Lookin good!
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#67
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Sounds like at least a 4 fingah bag ,to do that thankless job.
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#68
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Wish you were closer. I would lend you my dustless blaster. if you continue to do these restorations, you may want to consider purchasing one yourself. Expensive... but the value of these cars today might be worth the cost. It uses recycled glass beads which is safe to use...but messy!
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#69
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Thanks for the tip
Can you tell me the make and model of your dustless blaster I’ll look into it I don’t mind spending money for a good tools or equipment if it cut my time down and makes a task easier |
#70
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Quote:
Also needs a special rust inhibitor like Holdtite 102 or Dustless Blasting's name brand which keeps rust away for a couple days (couple weeks here in SoCal)! Should be epoxy primed right away even so. It etches the metal slightly which gives the primer tremendous bite. Last time I bought media, it was about $8.00/ 50 lb bag. Underside of chassis will probably take 10 or 15 bags? Holdtite goes a long way but must be bought 5 gallons at a time...enough to do 2 or 3 complete cars! I recommend SPI primers out of Texas. Once cured it's tough as steel but fairly easy to sand. |
#71
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Thanks for all the good info.
I actually made good progress today and got half the bottom floor stripped with just a wire wheel on a hand grinder and 60 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander It took about 4 hours I think the rest should go even faster since it mostly the trunk floor which is flat with not many contours. I guess 8 hours isn’t that bad. Should have epoxy primer on by the weekend |
#72
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Well I guess I spoke too soon.
I thought the floors on this car were solid but I did find some thin wafer metal near the front seat bolt hole But after stripping the whole floor and trunk that’s it so I am still thrilled with the condition of this car so far Used a piece of floor patch panel my friend had extra and cut and fit perfectly. All tacked in place |
#73
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Finally have the underside completed with epoxy primer.
Going to let dry over the weekend and hand sand with 220 and lay down some satin black then the firewall and floor is complete. |
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#74
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Does anyone know if a 67 442 hardtop frame and a 67 GTO hardtop frame are similar with the mounting pints to body in the same position and dimensions?
I bought the earth a bill frame from someone who told me it was a from a GTO When I got there to pick it up he told me it’s actually from a four for two but ” they’re all the same”. I just need a frame that I could put the body on temporarily when I paint it and align my front clip to. I can see some visual differences between the two frames but I’m hoping all of the body mounts are in the same position to mount my body |
#75
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I have always had the understanding that all of the GM A-body frames were the same too for any given year. If it's truly a 67 442 frame, I would think you're okay.
But since you mention you see some differences, I suppose an abundance of caution would say measure against your original just to be sure. Let us know what you find out. By the way, beautiful work you're doing! Enjoying the progress updates!
__________________
Eric "Todd" Mitten '74 Bonneville 4dr Sedan (455/TH400/2.93 open) '72 LeMans GT (455/M-13/3.23 [8.5"] posi) '71 GTO Hardtop (400/TH400/3.07 12 bolt posi) ‘71 GTO Convertible (455HO/TH400/3.23 posi) '67 GTO Coupe (455/ST-10/2.93 posi) '67 Tempest Wagon (428/TH400/2.56 posi) Deuteronomy 8:3 |
#76
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Thanks for the words if encouragement and the compliments too.
I will do some measurements tomorrow and report back I did notice the holes in the frame horns for the rad support are oval instead of round holes. The fuel lines run on the opposite side of frame as well.. |
#77
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Don't think it would necessarily matter for this particular use case scenario, but don't the Olds frames also have different engine cradles/crossmembers? I could be wrong here, but feel like I've heard that before.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#78
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Frames are different from the front of the A arms to the Rad support.
Now I am stuck with an Oldsmobile frame . Haha! Oh well I should of researched it better before buying it |
#79
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Feeling good and starting to see small progress.
Finally have a rolling chassis. Made some adapters to mount the frame on my body cart. |
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#80
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All detailed up
Had the decals printed up with the correct codes I know some guys think the decals are a bit too much but I like them anyway. |
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