[Greg Reid]

Good idea. Now that I think on it, the Ame's Tech could probably answer the question.

[gtospieg]

The piece for the grill support is 67 only, the pieces for under the headlights are for 67 only. The other pieces work for 66 and 67.

[Greg Reid]

Thanks, that's what I wanted to know. Unfortunate that they won't sell the splash shields alone.

[gtospieg]

I may have a set of splash shields. I'm not sure of the condition. I bought the kit you referenced for my current 67 project because I needed some of the other pieces.

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by gtospieg

The piece for the grill support is 67 only, the pieces for under the headlights are for 67 only. The other pieces work for 66 and 67.

I concur with this. These parts (below) are the only items in the C104G kit for '67 what will fit on a '66.

Since Dominc (RedDirtRoad) and I both have A/C cars, our panels also have the extra pieces of stamped steel that screw onto the larger main panels which the flexible rubber attaches to. I could be mistaken, but I don't think non-A/C cars have that extra stuff. They get the main large metal panels and nothing else, IIRC.

[Greg Reid]

Thanks for the clear photo. I see now that the parts you show with the tape labels are basically what I already have and I'm missing the rubber parts.
So the rubber parts are not needed except for on AC cars?
I'm going to remove mine to see how rusty they really are. I think that the one on the battery side has some rot.

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Thanks for the clear photo. I see now that the parts you show with the tape labels are basically what I already have and I'm missing the rubber parts.
So the rubber parts are not needed except for on AC cars?
I'm going to remove mine to see how rusty they really are. I think that the one on the battery side has some rot.

Correct, you don't need the rubber parts on a non-A/C car. You won't even have anything to attach the rubber seals to unless you also get your hands on the additional metal pieces that screw into the bottom of the larger main panels, which are specific to A/C cars and are somewhat difficult to find.

But with all that said, if you are feeling adventurous and are willing to go on a treasure hunt, installing the full suite of A/C baffles and seals on a non-A/C car will still benefit your non-A/C car. When the front bumper is installed, it results in all the air being forced through the radiator core, which will benefit any car with or without A/C.

[Greg Reid]

Beautiful. Great pics. That helps a lot and yes, I may fabricate that stuff. Thanks guys. I'm getting hyped about digging into this car after years of neglect.

[RedDirtRoad]

I have the whole car stripped to bare metal and 2 costs of epoxy primer. Both doors are solid and no rust whatsoever. I need small patch panels in each fender and both rear quarter panels. The rear tail light panel looked good but after stripping it just has too many pin holes.
I got lucky and scored an NOS tail panel
Overall the car has very little rust issues and very solid.

[MUSLCAH]

Get that pick hammah out...and look for trouble.

Nice score on the tail light panel. I ended up buying one from Ames.

What’s a panel like that worth ?

[MUSLCAH]

Get that pick hammah out...and look for trouble.

Nice score on the tail light panel. I ended up buying one from Ames.

What’s a panel like that worth ?

[RedDirtRoad]

Costs too much!
Last time I found one about 5 years ago it cost me 400 bucks
This time it was 700 but the guy was local and could not find another anywhere else
I heard a few guys were selling them at Norwalk this year for around 500.

[RedDirtRoad]

Do the repros have the inner brackets that the taillights mount to or do you have to transfer from the old panel?

[gtospieg]

The repros are missing the wire loom holders for the taillights.

[RedDirtRoad]

Ok but still has all the inner structure?

[gtospieg]

Yes...I've used 2 of them without issue.

[6d7gto]

Originally Posted by RedDirtRoad

I have the whole car stripped to bare metal and 2 costs of epoxy primer. Both doors are solid and no rust whatsoever. I need small patch panels in each fender and both rear quarter panels. The rear tail light panel looked good but after stripping it just has too many pin holes.
I got lucky and scored an NOS tail panel
Overall the car has very little rust issues and very solid.

The front fender in the photo shown with patch panel is not that bad at all. I urge you not to use that patch panel! Fix the original and don't mess with that original body line. Ask me how I know!

[RedDirtRoad]

Thank you for that tip and suggestions. I was planning on sacrificing that patch panel and just use what little I need to replace the rotted metal
I wasn’t planning on using the whole panel
In fact, the bracing behind it is in perfect condition

[MUSLCAH]

If that was my lower fender...I’d be flowing some lead in those punky areas. And if there is a brace behind it ...I carefully cut what needs to be removed to access the back side of the repair ( lead work ) and seal it up real nice on the back side. Then weld that brace back in.

Like noted above ...you won’t lose your factory lines/ gaps

[RedDirtRoad]

Making some progress with the front fenders
All fitted up. Weld thru primer and welded up
1 fender down and 1 to go