[HWYSTR455]

The housing is no big deal doing H4 conversions, you can get the housings for like $20 each, in glass, and then just buy the LED bulb kit. (H4 LED conversion)

If you look at the 442 build thread, it shows the Autopal ones I used. I'll post the stuff I finally decide on in my judge tribute build. But I can't find a reason not to use the Autopal ones again.

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[AdamIsAdam]

Ah, I get it. I've often wondered why cars aren't wired to have low stay on with high beams. My current BMW with xenon is the first car to do that because the xenon is low only and regular light for high, and they're both great. Even my fogs stay on with high beams.

My GTO has H4 low beams but they aren't installed right as they don't sit level making aiming impossible. I really should have redone all lighting when I had the front end body work done.

Meanwhile, off to the garage later to try installing the front LED bulbs to see if that fixes my issues.

[AdamIsAdam]

The front LED bulbs do not fit into the front sockets. It's too wide at the flange so the bulb doesn't go deep enough in to the flange to make it to the L lock before the glass/ LED area hits the flange. I'll have to call the manufacturer Monday for suggestions.

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

The front LED bulbs do not fit into the front sockets. It's too wide at the flange so the bulb doesn't go deep enough in to the flange to make it to the L lock before the glass/ LED area hits the flange. I'll have to call the manufacturer Monday for suggestions.

Adam,
Did you buy the ones that I did from JDM https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Ext...ct_top?ie=UTF8 because mine fit perfectly with no problems? The socket in one of my housings is damaged which made it a little harder to get it to engage but the undamaged one worked just like an 1157 bulb. I hate that you are having so many problems.
Dale

[AdamIsAdam]

Yes, I bought that one. (also, re-read my last post at the bottom as I added a few sentences at the end)

Yea, I was working on it and feeling like a 11 thumbed oaf that I couldn't even change bulbs!

I didn't even get into how crazy the entire system went when I tried it. I'm hoping that it went haywire because the fronts were out and therefore not grounded. I will hold off posting video of it until I have more time to mess with it tomorrow.

EDIT: So how do I get the wiring off?

Wait, but I measured the diameter of the new and old bulbs and the LED is much wider and it looks like that will prevent the bulb from sliding into the socket.

[tempest1964]

Is it possible they sent a pack of mislabeled LED's? Or they're not stock sockets? If the sockets in the rear are supposed to be the same as the ones in the front ( sorry I didn't re-read beginning of post) you could see if they swap?
Good Luck

[AdamIsAdam]

No, I think they are correct.

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by tempest1964

Is it possible they sent a pack of mislabeled LED's? Or they're not stock sockets?

I ran into the problem with the wrong socket of one of my front turn signals. The bulbs kept jamming and would not turn and set in without a lot of force. I then realized someone had replaced the 1157 socket with a 1142 socket. They are both dual contact but the 1157 has staggered prongs and the 1142 prongs are both mounted low. So it will be getting a new socket.
Dale

[AdamIsAdam]

Mine both appear to be original, which is likely based on this car.

[AdamIsAdam]

This conversation is being continued here:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...9&postcount=39

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

My GTO has H4 low beams but they aren't installed right as they don't sit level making aiming impossible. ..

I had to trim the headlight buckets to get the housing to sit properly in them, I cut the back out of them to where they were 'round', like, cut that whole 'square' area out. There's a slight notch that you can make to reference them too, but I was able to get them adjusted without making a slot for that notch.

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[AdamIsAdam]

argh, yet another thing I should have done when the front end was redone at the body shop.

[HWYSTR455]

You can pop the headlight out from the front and work the bucket without taking it out.

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[AdamIsAdam]

maybe i'll get around to that one of these days... after I finally get my 1/2" fuel system installed this spring(!) finally.

[highrisk]

Originally Posted by Cvarney

Anyone here running LEDs for the 1157 and 1156 lamps in the tail lights and front turn signals? And if so what ones do you prefer?

I don't know if you have bought any LED lights yet but this is what I bought and I am very happy with them, very bright. I have pictures of the front turn signal but not the back lights. They are in the car at the body shop. Also, after seeing the pictures of the difference that painting the inside of the housing white I will be taking mine back apart and painting them white. The pictures are with them painted silver. The one picture is the dim parking light, the other is the much brighter turn signal.

These are the rear lights. https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Ext...ct_top?ie=UTF8

These are the front parking/turn signal lights. https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Ext...ct_top?ie=UTF8

I got these for the reverse lights. https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Lum...1156+led+white

This is the flasher I bought. https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...asher/781/835/

I also bought all of my interior lights from https://www.superbrightleds.com/ I didn't buy the outside lights from them because the ones from JDM are much brighter. One thing you need to be careful with is some of the LED 1157s out there do not have enough difference between bright and dim. Other than that the people at SuperBrightLeds are great people to work with and they are out of the St. Louis area. I replaced every interior light to include the dash lights with LEDs from them. Just remember to get the color that matches the lens and you will love the results. I used the warmer white (2700K) for the dash and the natural white (4300K) for the courtesy lights.

Also watch the total length of the bulb. Some of the 1157 LED lights out there are too long and won't fit.

The other picture is the LED for the under dash courtesy light.

Hope this helps,
Dale

[Cvarney]

Originally Posted by highrisk

I don't know if you have bought any LED lights yet but this is what I bought and I am very happy with them, very bright. I have pictures of the front turn signal but not the back lights. They are in the car at the body shop. Also, after seeing the pictures of the difference that painting the inside of the housing white I will be taking mine back apart and painting them white. The pictures are with them painted silver. The one picture is the dim parking light, the other is the much brighter turn signal.

These are the rear lights. https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Ext...ct_top?ie=UTF8

These are the front parking/turn signal lights. https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Ext...ct_top?ie=UTF8

I got these for the reverse lights. https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Lum...1156+led+white

This is the flasher I bought. https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...asher/781/835/

I also bought all of my interior lights from https://www.superbrightleds.com/ I didn't buy the outside lights from them because the ones from JDM are much brighter. One thing you need to be careful with is some of the LED 1157s out there do not have enough difference between bright and dim. Other than that the people at SuperBrightLeds are great people to work with and they are out of the St. Louis area. I replaced every interior light to include the dash lights with LEDs from them. Just remember to get the color that matches the lens and you will love the results. I used the warmer white (2700K) for the dash and the natural white (4300K) for the courtesy lights.

Also watch the total length of the bulb. Some of the 1157 LED lights out there are too long and won't fit.

The other picture is the LED for the under dash courtesy light.

Hope this helps,
Dale

I did. I picked up LUYED brand cause they at least advertised a higher lumen for the bulbs I got. The flasher I got I don't remember the brand of. But yeah there's not way I'd go back to regular bulbs now. I'd like to find some proper LED headlights too. I put them on my Jeep last year and it's wayyyyyyyyyy nicer. LED is definitely the way to go with lighter nowadays.

[HWYSTR455]

Has anyone needed to use the load resistors? Or would that be just for CAN applications?


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[highrisk]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Has anyone needed to use the load resistors? Or would that be just for CAN applications?


.

I just changed my flasher to one rated for the LED bulbs. This is the one I bought but you can also find them on Amazon. The one on this website seemed to be better made. https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...asher/781/835/
Dale

[First Bird]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Has anyone needed to use the load resistors? Or would that be just for CAN applications?


.

I ended up using load resistors for my turn signals. After switching to LED for everything except headlights and the dome light, I had hyperflash on the turn signals, even with no-load flashers. When the engine was off, the signals worked fine. But with the engine on, they just stayed on. No flash. After consulting with the good guys at Digitails - love my LED tail lights! - it was determined that there was just not enough load. I wired in a resistor to each side and that solved the problem.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by First Bird

I ended up using load resistors for my turn signals. After switching to LED for everything except headlights and the dome light, I had hyperflash on the turn signals, even with no-load flashers. When the engine was off, the signals worked fine. But with the engine on, they just stayed on. No flash. After consulting with the good guys at Digitails - love my LED tail lights! - it was determined that there was just not enough load. I wired in a resistor to each side and that solved the problem.

When you say 'each side', how do you mean? Just the fronts?

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