[Greg Reid]

Three rattle cans it is then....lol
I expect after thinking on it, it would probably take a special tip to spray it anyway.

[poncho447]

Actually you'll need nine cans total.

Three cans of trunk paint + six cans of beer to celebrate after your done

[6869GTO]

If using rattle cans be sure to put a black base down first, then 2cans will be more than enough ,should have leftover.Some can do it this way w/1 can,it took about 1 1/4 on mine.Don't forget the clear coat to seal it.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by poncho447

Actually you'll need nine cans total.

Three cans of trunk paint + six cans of beer to celebrate after your done

Any particular order? Beer first maybe?

6869GTO, I had thought about that. Good to hear that's an option.

[PaulatFast]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

6869GTO, I had thought about that. Good to hear that's an option.

It is the right way to do it! I'm probably about to offend some folks... The trunks from the factory were not PAINTED grey! They were SPATTERED! One of the biggest mistakes I see on cars, and it drives me crazy, is all of the beautifully restored cars out there with the trunk coated with so much "Spatter Paint" that the surface is solid grey and lumpy! NO! NO! NO!

Paint the trunk flat black, then SPATTER the "Spatter paint" over the black. I can do a trunk with LESS than one can of "Spatter Paint". We don't use it anymore, but it looks fine. Don't forget to clear it with satin.


Your job looks great Greg! I'm a little late to this party but I'll add a few things...
-For the extra 100 dollars I would have replaced that tail panel, it's easier than using the original. I noticed the mounds of filler that are probably filling rust holes under the rear "eyebrows" of your quarters...
-You mentioned how difficult it was separating the rear seat pan and the seat backing pan from the front of the trunk floor where it is sandwiched in place...
Definately late with this little time saver, when that seam is not rusted out, we cut off the front edge that is sandwiched and install our new trunk floor underneath. It is maybe an 1/8th low but has no effect on anything aligning propperly. it is totally undetectable when the job is done. It also keeps the cars structural intergity more sound throughout the entire project. We drill 3/8" holes every 1 1/2" and plug weld from the bottom. Those welds are easily accessible to grind and the top still is 100% factory.

[PaulatFast]

Originally Posted by Judas

Looking great! I didn't know the full panel went all the way out back to the tail panel like that. I definitely would have gotten the full because my trunk pan was trashed on the driver's side all the way up through the tail panel.

It doesn't on a 69! The 68 panel is different at the rear, that is what was reproduced. On a 69 the entire rear section must be reused. I wish the parts companies would correct this issue in thier books, I get calls all the time from guys that removed and scrapped thier entire factory trunk, only to find out they needed to reuse a large portion of it.

[PaulatFast]

Originally Posted by PontGuy

If all you need is the bottom of the pan and you can get it through the trunk then a 1-piece is probably easier. But if you have a serious mess then the 3-piece will probably work out better.

I hate to be the body shop police force, but, I want folks to have the right info, should anyone look this thread up to make thier decision...

There is a little confusion going on here early. There is a REPAIR panel that is referred to as a "One Peice trunk floor". It is 34" front to back and 56" wide. The problem is the trunk floor is actually 61"! They leave 2 1/2" off of each side that need fabbed or reused. The way I count, that makes 3 pieces! If you have a large hole to patch in the center of your trunk, this panel would be good for you. having been doing these cars for a long time I can honestly say we have never found these panels to be usefull. I have two leaning in the corner. Folks like to throw them in rotted out trunks to hide the mess and make the trunk semi-usable.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by PaulatFast

It is the right way to do it! I'm probably about to offend some folks... The trunks from the factory were not PAINTED grey! They were SPATTERED! One of the biggest mistakes I see on cars, and it drives me crazy, is all of the beautifully restored cars out there with the trunk coated with so much "Spatter Paint" that the surface is solid grey and lumpy! NO! NO! NO!

Paint the trunk flat black, then SPATTER the "Spatter paint" over the black. I can do a trunk with LESS than one can of "Spatter Paint". We don't use it anymore, but it looks fine. Don't forget to clear it with satin.


Your job looks great Greg! I'm a little late to this party but I'll add a few things...
-For the extra 100 dollars I would have replaced that tail panel, it's easier than using the original. I noticed the mounds of filler that are probably filling rust holes under the rear "eyebrows" of your quarters...
-You mentioned how difficult it was separating the rear seat pan and the seat backing pan from the front of the trunk floor where it is sandwiched in place...
Definately late with this little time saver, when that seam is not rusted out, we cut off the front edge that is sandwiched and install our new trunk floor underneath. It is maybe an 1/8th low but has no effect on anything aligning propperly. it is totally undetectable when the job is done. It also keeps the cars structural intergity more sound throughout the entire project. We drill 3/8" holes every 1 1/2" and plug weld from the bottom. Those welds are easily accessible to grind and the top still is 100% factory.

That's great info Paul...even if some of it is a little late for me, many people search these things out and it'll help someone further down the line. .
You're right about the tail panel. I should have changed it... although it's not real bad, just not as good as I'd like.
As for the filler under the eyebrows...funny you should mention it. I just ground it out on the driver's side night before last. Had never noticed it before!.
Metal is not terrible under there but I'll patch it before I get to paint.
One can of splatter it is. Already got the black paint.

[PaulatFast]

Originally Posted by PontGuy

The center where the pan goes over the axle did not match the body on my car either.

When you get through all the metal work the Parts Place has the correct water-proof splatter paint to finish it off with the original look.

Walt

Last Post! I promise! lol

There are two three piece repop trunk pans available for these cars. The ones you used are from Classic Reproductions in Greenville OH. They are patterned after the 70-72 trunk pans that have a different hump on the shelf. They are identified by the bare metal, uncut drain holes and lack of definaition since the dies have been in use since the eighties. Still a good piece and we use them often.

The other three piece, made in asia, is easily identified by the black ecoat. They are patterned after a 68-69 trunk. I must note that the hump changed around April 69 and the late cars used the 70 style hump.

[Judas]

Originally Posted by PaulatFast

It doesn't on a 69! The 68 panel is different at the rear, that is what was reproduced. On a 69 the entire rear section must be reused. I wish the parts companies would correct this issue in thier books, I get calls all the time from guys that removed and scrapped thier entire factory trunk, only to find out they needed to reuse a large portion of it.

Thanks for the clairification.

-J

[Greg Reid]

Finally finished everything. Still have it up in the air until I get my Pypes system installed which is in process right now. I'm really pleased with it.
The photos don't do it justice. Not as grey as it appears in the photos and the 'speckle' is not as heavy as it appears. It's more apparent that it's black with aqua 'splatter' when viewed in person. I used two cans of flat black and one can of spatter per Paul's advice.
I threw the gas tank pics in because I really didn't consider it complete until I'd done the tank.

[Pontiac_Defender]

That looks amazing Greg!

[6869GTO]

Nice job Greg. Glad you followed Paul's advice and didn't go with the 3 cans of spatter.Trunk needs to look black.The tank looks great too! Those the stainless straps?

[Old Goat 67]

NICE Greg!

[Tempest]

That looks really good, nice work.

[2cdavis3]

Nice work Greg.

[Greg Reid]

Thanks guys. This car is never gonna be a show car. I just want it to be a solid driver with no GLARING problems.
The tank straps are the cheap galvanized but I misted them with a little argent paint.
Just gotta finish my exhaust system and I can get back to working on getting it painted.

[2cdavis3]

Greg you still getting it painted in hogansville?

[Verdoro 68]

Looks great! Nice work.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

This car is never gonna be a show car.

Maybe not, but the trunk damn sure is.